I have a Monterey style Red Oak table from the early 1900s. The table top does not resist moisture, heat or scratches (even from a finger nail). Hot plates of food have caused milky white patches. I have had two “furniture refinisher/restorers” look at the table and provide ideas and quotes for refinishing the top surface. One would never sand it, would rather use a stripper and refinish it. He thinks the top is a shilac finish and is not sure what the patches are. The other would sand it (says the white patches will not come out without sanding) and refinish it with either an oil based finish (to be reapplied periodically) or polyurethane.
While I don’t want to ruin a very nice piece of furniture that is an antique; I need a new finish that will withstand daily family use. I am very hesitant to have it sanded. Any advice will be appreciated. I have attached a photo of the table.
Jake the Husker
Replies
Do not let the second guy within a hundred yards of your home let alone the piece of furniture.
I would also guess the finish if shellac which is EASILY removed by using denatured alcohol (stripper will also work but is MUCH messier).
I would suggest that you get Howard's Restor-a-Finish as a beginning point with the least invasiveness and the easiest to use. Wipe it on and wipe it off. It may well be all you need--may need to do it 2 or 3 times to remove the white spots (they are pretty impressive).
This however will not solve your overall problem (seemingly) that you want to put hot and wet things on this table. To solve this you will need to strip the top (DO NOT SAND the finish off!) and apply a more durable finish such as a wipeon varnish.
I wouldn't let either of these guys touch the piece. If the 1st guy doesn't know what the white patches are, he's pretty clueless.
I've used Restor-A-Finish frequently in the past, and it's not apt to work in this situation. I wouldn't spend the time or the money on it. If you are up for doing a little reading, and think you might be doing some other furniture rescue projects in the future, get Bruce Johnson's book The Weekend Refinisher and give it a read. It's well-written, straightforward, and he shows respect for the original finish in his recommendations. $10 or $12 book.
Basically, what you want to do is dissolve (not strip) the original finish until the white patches are gone and you have an even look to what's left. Then refinish. With a piece such as you describe, I would use a wiping varnish, homemade. Bruce's book will explain this process in detail. It's an extremely user-friendly process!
PS: if the finish is shellac, and it probably is, denatured alcohol will dissolve it, but it works so quickly that it makes the process a little difficult for a first-time user. Mixing the alcohol with lacquer thinner makes it more manageable.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Jake - Monterey furniture was in production from 1929 -1942. The finish is lacquer. If the lacquer has become soft (easily damaged with a fingernail), it should be replaced. The white spots are just moisture in the finish and will disappear when the old finish is removed.
Furniture should not be sanded when being refinished and polyurethane should not be used. The appropriate restoration for this piece is to remove the failing lacquer finish and replace it with lacquer. With a new lacquer finish, you will need to protect the table from the abuse of hot dishes, harsh cleaners, and household chemicals (e.g., nail polish remover, etc.).
If you prefer, you can use a durable finish like varnish, polyurethane (a more durable varnish), or a catalyzed finish. The table doesn't have great historical value and using the "wrong" finish won't cause a loss of value.
Find another refinishing shop that has a clue.
Paul
F'burg, VA
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