I am installing a jamb in a doorway that has an arched top. My question is how to handle the arch? I would use 3/4″ solid stock for the sides, but how do I bend wood for the arch? The only thing I can think of is using a few 1/8″ thick plys of solid stock, steam bending them then gluing them togther when dry. This would get me at least a 3/8″ thick arch, which I could at least affix a casing moulding to some fine finish nails.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
Replies
1/8 ply. Build a form, cut 6 or 7 plys, epoxy together and set in form. Clamp.
(No need to steam bend this for a standard door opening.)
Edited 11/28/2005 11:48 am ET by jackplane
A good plywwod supplier should have wacky board bending ply. It's 3/8" with 2 thicker plies on the outside and a single bendable ply on the inside. You stick two layers of it together with contatct cement and you are done. You could apply a veneer on the outside for staining otherwise just paint over it. Wacky board has been around for years, available with grain running the long or the short way depending on the application. You don't even need a form to shape it.
No need to steam bend 1/8 plywood. I'm sure Fine HomeBuilding covered the topic. You might try posting on Breaktime as it deals more with house construction.
Exactly what jackplane said, very simple.
Doug
i agree with jackplane, but when I've done it, I just used good old fashioned yellow glue and it worked great. we ripped and ran 1/8 pieces of poplar through the planer and then applied glue to all sides of each piece. to clamp them over the form, we used those big web ratchet straps -- excellent uniform clampage. let them dry, joint one edge, cut to width on table saw and away you go.
the form can be your friend as well. there will be some springback when you remove your curved jamb from the form. so, elevate the form into the opening (just use 2x4's to get it to the right height. level the bottom of the form to eliminate stress. then shim and nail your curved jamb*, drop the form out of the way and add your vertical jambs.
if I can find a picture, I'll post one or two.
I have a trick or two for cutting your curved casing if you are interested.
*when you build the form, make it a little narrower than the finished width of the jamb, so you can nail the jamb from both sides.
Jackplane/Rick/Doug/Pete,
Thanks a ton for those great suggestions. The first thing I will do is go to a good ply supplier and take a look at the flexible ply - that would seem the easiest option if I can bend it to the radius I need. The one thing that concerns me is I would have a feeling the end grain of the ply sheets would be perpendicular to the plane (length) of the bend, which would mean the end grain faces the exposed edge that will receive the paint and the casing. Granted, the casing covers most of the edge, there will still be a 1/8"-3/16" reveal. I would like this to be a smooth edge.
If that does not work, I love the laminate and bend idea using a form. Sounds relatively easy, though a bit labour intensive. This method would for sure work, and no end grain would be exposed.
Pete - thanks for the detailed description and the particulars on the the construction of the form and springback....some great tips there. I would love to see a few pics of your work as well as your offer to share you trick for cutting curved casings.
Thanks again to all of you.
I looked for the pics in this computer, but I think they're in my laptop (I sometimes use it for a slideshow to homeowners -- if I dig them up I'll show you -- I know I have this detailed somewhere.
Ooops, one more thing. If using solid stock, what would be the most flexible wood? I assume clear pine would be a good option. It will be painted, so as long as it's not an open grain wood, just about anyting will do.
Thanks again.
when cut down to 1/8" thickness (for the laminations) it's all flexible enough. we used poplar last time I did it. but yeah, I could see radiata pine working just fine.
If you want a solid wood jamb you can stack laminate strips of wood cut to the proper radius until you have the width you need. One then veneers the inside of the jamb for appearance.
Just one more way to skin the cat. The other methods already mentioned certainly will work as well.
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled