I recently use my old block plane on a job and it dulled pretty fast. Admitedly I was using it on an old door that had 6-8 coats of old oil based paint on it. I sometimes have to size doors quickly before I repaint them. The blade in it is a retrofit Hock blade that is 4 1/4″ X 1 5/8″ with notches in the blade for the adjustment mechanism.
I saw an ad for the Lie-Nielsen pocket block plane with a A2 blade. The whole plane is 5″ X 1 1/4″ wide. It’s $75.00
Is there a source for just blades or should i go for the plane?View Imagest the A2
Edited 5/6/2005 5:05 pm ET by david
Replies
I have the bronze LN low angle block plane (#102) and I like it a lot, and use it frequently. I don't think that you'd be disappointed buying the iron version of the plane.
Glaucon
If you don't think too good, then don't think too much...
I googled A2 blades and found the Hock website. They have A2 blades for just about all the regular blades they sell.
I wonder just how much better performance and length of sharpness I'll get?
They are $20-$40. That's probably why I bought the regular blade!
The old oil base paint will hammer any blade short of carbide very fast.
>Stanley versus LN block planes<
I would tend to agree with you. But I think that the reason is that the tolerances for block planes are not as critical as they are for jointers or smoothers. I use my block planes for trim carpentry (fitting miters, etc) and for trimming the end grain on joints mostly. If the sole isn't dead on flat or the throat accurate and tight, I'm not sure that it will make much of a difference in these applications.
On the other hand if you're hand planing a table top to flatness with a foreplane or finishing highly figured wood with a smoother- well I think you'd notice the difference. The Stanley 60 1/2 is about $45, the LN iron block plane is $75- not a huge piece of change. One reason to buy the LN (aside from the cachet) is that the QA is very high. I don't think you'd have to worry about the plane being well made and adjusted- but if you were buying the 60 1/2 in person and could examine it in the store, you would probably do just as well.
LN makes a more expensive adjustable mouth block plane, but I've never used it. I'd be interested in anyone who has and could describe any advantages it might have.
Glaucon
If you don't think too good, then don't think too much...
By the time you add the cost of a Hock blade to the Stanley, there is even less cost difference. The L/N comes with an A2 blade.
Regards
D
>days after an upgrade, somebody will gift me another L-N...or LV.<
Do what I do- put a bushel of shavings under your pillow at night, and by morning the handplane ferry will have left you a LN... (don't try this with chisel shavings...)
Glaucon
If you don't think too good, then don't think too much...
I think whatever differences there are will be due to the planes themselves.
The differences between tool steel (O-1) and A-2 are basically one of durability. Both can be sharpened to a keen edge. Odds-on are that the A-2 blade will require less frequent sharpening than O-1. O-1 is generally oil-quenched, A-2 is air-quenched.
A-2:
http://www.metalsdepot.com/products/o1a2flat2.phtml?page=a2&LimAcc=
O-1
http://www.metalsdepot.com/products/o1a2flat2.phtml?page=o1&LimAcc=
Regards,
They sell blades that fit into some other planes but their planes are awesome to hold, use and look at. I love mine and the A2 blade really holds an edge well. High quality steel should cut that paint easily. Aloha
If your plane is 'GOOD' for you then get a better blade!
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