Replies

1. 
   roc | Aug 30, 2010 10:40pm | #1

   If you don't have a bandsaw you are going to need one

    Not too hard to cut your own

   https://www.finewoodworking.com/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesPDF.aspx?id=2653

   Probably not the answer you wanted but maybe get the ball rolling here.

1. 
   cblouin | Aug 30, 2010 11:02pm | #3

   Trust me, the bandsaw is the next thing on my list! I'm just not quite there money wise...

2. 
   roc | Aug 30, 2010 10:57pm | #2

   or

   1/32" & 1/16" Finland Grade Birch Plywood

   go here and page down

   http://www.sloanswoodshop.com/plywoods.htm

1. 
   cblouin | Aug 30, 2010 11:05pm | #4

   Thanks, I check a few places and was begin to wonder whether 1/16" was the twillight zone of board thickness. 

   Cheers,

1. 
   DonStephan | Aug 31, 2010 07:38pm | #5

   I think you can find several varieties of 1/16" veneer at certainlywood.com.

3. 
   BruceS | Aug 31, 2010 11:56pm | #6

   Constantines

   http://www.constantines.com/116thickveneers.aspx     

   Try this site if you don't want to make it.                                                                                                                 

4. 
   textures | Sep 11, 2010 03:30pm | #7

   I maintain 5 different looms for my wife. I don't know what type of loom you have Heddles are available from the maker. You may be able to use string heddle if lifted from the top

1. 
   cblouin | Sep 12, 2010 10:07pm | #8

   I'm replicating the dimensions of the Cricket Loom (except for the width, which I'll make longer). As a last resort, I'll get the heddle from the manufacturer. However, I've got this idea of playing the colors of Walnut and Maple and build the mechanism (ratchet gears) with a combination of the two woods. For this reason, I want to make the heddle as well instead of using the manufacturer's plastic heddle.

   BTW, I'm putting together my brand new bandsaw. I can now mill 3/16" wide teeths then drill/rout the eyes in the middle.  I'll post the sketchup when it is done.

5. 
   Frank Vucolo | Sep 13, 2010 08:43am | #9

   Rip it on the table saw

   If I understand this right, you need a lot of strips that are 1/4 wide and 1/16 thick.

   One solution would be to mill the stock of your choice to 1/4 thick and then rip off 1/16 strips on the table saw. Here's the technique in an article by Steve Latta https://www.finewoodworking.com/subscription/skillsandtechniques/skillsandtechniquesarticle.aspx?id=33585

   I think there is a video somewhere on FWW, too.

   You may want to mount a thin kerf 7-1/4 blade to your table saw and make a zero clearance insert for it. (The downside of a typical blade is the waste of materail in the kerf.)

   I do this all the time to rip inlay banding from a pack and for ripping 1/32 holly for string inlay. It is safe, easy and allows you to make a lot of strips in a short time with great accuracy.

   Good luck with the project.

   Frank

1. 
   cblouin | Sep 13, 2010 09:25am | #10

   Thanks! This is a good suggestion. I'll play around with the tablesaw. This would could work out to be fast and give very regular cuts. 

6. 
   JohnWW | Sep 13, 2010 03:13pm | #11

   Try this site: http://www.hobbyworldinc.com/wood.html 

   They have strips of basswood 1/16" by 1/4" which will work perfectly for your application, it is meant for model building.  If you google "wood strips+hobby" you find lots of similar sources.

7. 
   sapwood | Sep 14, 2010 07:22pm | #12

   Certainly Woods (www.certainlywoods.com) has 1/16 veneer in a variety of species. I have purchased it from them inmahogany, cherry, poplar, and cedar. They are fine people to deal with. Cutting your own is a good waste of time.

1. 
   cblouin | Sep 14, 2010 08:04pm | #13

   You must have meant http://www.certainlywood.com without the "s". Your link leads to one of these non-sensical ad-sense sites.

   Thanks for the pointer. By the way, a good waste of time has its value ;)

8. 
   swannyww | Sep 27, 2010 01:01pm | #14

   veneer

   I cut my own on the table saw, but I cut it to the left of the blade so as not to try to cut it between the blade and the fence (gets too tight to control).  I use my sliding t square to set the thickness I want to save left of the blade (for repeated cuts), place the wood next to the fence and slide the fence till it hits the t square position.  lock the fence and remove the t square, make your cut and repeat.  I also believe someone has invented a jig for this procedure.  I use thin kerf blades because it removes less stock and cut easier on thick pieces.

   I have used a company called foremost wood products for wider pieces, go to foremostwood.com.  they should be able help.

9. 
   cblouin | Dec 25, 2010 09:39pm | #15

   Reviving an old thread. I did NOT used veneer in the end but routed the teeth in 1/4" boards. I've posted the project to the user's gallery, in case anyone is interested in seeing what happened with my original problem.

   https://www.finewoodworking.com/item/33749/shires-tabletop-loom