Article: cutting tenons with radial saw?
I saw, or I thought I saw, an article on the Fine Woodworking site that included some discussion of cutting tenons with a radial saw. I recall a photo of the saw blade turned horizontally to cut the tenon cheeks. Now, I can’t find it again after a good bit of dedicated searching. Can anyone furnish a lead on this? Thanks!
Replies
Turning the the blade parallel to the table (arbor nut down) works, but it dosen't seem like a very good idea to me. To do it you will have to cut a hole through the table so the arbor/nut will pass through. You also need to cut the cheeks first, then the shoulders. This set up requires too many set ups and is more sensitive to misallignment.
I use a Dado set. Two (one and a half really) set ups will make very nice tennons. I also think it is one of the safer ways to do it.... aside from hand tools.
If you need specific procedure ask here and I'll post it. Other than the obvious set up one tip I can give you is to use drill bits to set the blade heigth. Be carefull to not chip a tooth.
Pardon my spelling,
Mike
Make sure that your next project is beyond your skill and requires tools you don't have. You won't regret it.
I found in my Index for the first 100 issues under 'Tenons', 'on radial arm saw':
Fine Woodworking issue 32 pages 72-73, and 'Jigs for' issue 53 pages 60-61.
I don't know if there is anything more recent.
Peter,
I used to use this method before I had a lot of other options. It can definitely be done, although I prefer not to do it anymore. A few pointers:
You will need a raised platform addition on which the workpiece gets clamped, to the left of the travelling blade. You must have a secure hold-down arrangement because the pieces will want to edge away from the cut. Turn the motor so its arbor faces down, arm just high enough to allow the motor to travel. Make the raised platform on the left so that the blade just skims over its surface at this height.
Make sure your saw is perfectly aligned and with as little free play as possible.
Use a backer piece to prevent tearout.
Use a thin kerf rip blade to cut the tenon cheeks. Pull the saw slowly. Use a crosscut blade afterwards, with saw in normal mode, to trim off the shoulders.
Make lots of practice pieces until you've got all the little tricks down.
David Ring
http://www.touchwood.co.il/?id=1&lang=e
I have used the same setup as ring I used an 8 inch blade instead of the regular 10" it can work quite well, but I also recommend your saw should be set up as accurately as you can and your elevated table also be as accurate as possible.If you are doing a lot of the same size tenons build toggle clamps into the elevated table.
John Bolton Regards from OZ
You can make it fool proof but not idiot proof
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled