Replies

1. 
   082250 | May 01, 2009 06:19am | #1

   I recently made some 7" deep drawers for a shop cabinet out of 5/8" stock, with 5/8" finger joints, also about 1/32" proud. I made dadoed cauls, nothing fancy just to clear the fingers and glue squeeze out. Used 1/2" and 3/4" pipe clamps, with the 1/2" pipe running through a single dado caul that the 3/4 pipe clamped on. Attached the cauls with just a bit of hot melt glue. Sounds way more involved than it actually was (at least after the first one). 6 drawers went very smoothly. I made the cauls out of scrap that was no stronger than the drawer parts, so they knocked off easily without damage.

2. 
   Cincinnati | May 01, 2009 07:23am | #2

   I was going to suggest notched cauls like 082250 mentioned.

   However, I have used K-body Bessey's with no cauls just below the fingers and not bowed the sides. I use 8 clamps per box, and watch to evenly apply the pressure.

   Greg

   •••••••

   Exo 35:30-35

3. 
   BG | May 01, 2009 11:58am | #3

   Jz,

   I've used notched cauls also and like them. Another approach that works for me is to make some 'L's". The short leg of the 'L' is on a 45 degree angle. I clamp the 'L' to the sides forming a 90 angle over the joint and then use spring clamps or C-clamps to bring the joint together.

4. 
   KeithNewton | May 01, 2009 04:04pm | #4

   JZ, I made some drawers a few months ago that had good tight fitting fingers joints. Since there were 90 drawers in my unit, I was looking for something clean and fast. So I tried the thin Cyanoacrylate, which I dribbled it into the joint after the box was together dry fitted, followed by a shot of activator, and it kicks instantly.

   On the test piece that I made beforehand, the fingers broke before the glue failed, which was good enough for me.

1. 
   jz | May 02, 2009 03:42am | #5

   Thanks Keith. I like your idea. Did you put the glue in from the inside or outside or both? Jz

1. 
   KeithNewton | May 02, 2009 05:08am | #6

   Actually I did some of both. The back angle of the drawers was more acute than the others. I made a fixture to help in assembly. When I pounded the front on, I would sort of lay the tip on each joint while I let it flow. The surface tension along the syringe tip helped flood the whole length. Then while it was still on the fixture, I filled the bottom 45º joint from the inside. The fixture was held in a vice vertically. I would imagine that, If you assemble a dry-run, that you would want to just work from the top, then flip it over end for end, and repeat. You ought to make a sample corner or two for test run. If you are happy with the break / destruction test, you will learn from that instant feedback. If your joints are cut nice and tight, this thin glue will still flow into the face, so I feel like they are made for each other. Good luck, and let me know how you like it. K

2. 
   KeithNewton | May 04, 2009 03:26am | #8

   JZ. I am working on a new website, and do have a few shots of the piece that I mentioned. Go to this page, and find the Octagon down near the bottom. K
   http://web.mac.com/keithnewton/iWeb/Site/Functional%20Furniture.html

1. 
   gofigure57 | May 04, 2009 02:38pm | #9

   Keith,

   Your work is to say the least, Incredible. 

   Tom.

1. 
   KeithNewton | May 04, 2009 04:15pm | #11

   Thanks Tom. I will be taking a few of the pieces to the Historic Arkansas Museum tomorrow to set up a show, along with a few other makers from here. So some of my best work will be out for public scrutiny for a while. I was just wondering if there is a place to make an announcement for that on Knots, other than starting a new post? K

2. 
   knuts | May 04, 2009 03:19pm | #10

   Those drawers really came out nice! All nice work BTW.

3. 
   PeterDurand | May 04, 2009 08:23pm | #13

   That is truly beautiful work. 

   Better life through Zoodles and poutine...

1. 
   rwdare | May 05, 2009 12:34am | #14

   JZ,

   I use scrap white pine for the cauls. It'l crush a 32nd with no problem. Don't worry about the glue on end grain, you'll get rid of that when you plane the ends off the pins.

   Dick

5. 
   roc | May 04, 2009 03:13am | #7

   >don't want to smear glue squeeze out into end grain.

   Can "pre-finish" end grain before glue up so glue won't be absorbed.

   roc

   Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )

6. 
   flairwoodworks | May 04, 2009 06:26pm | #12

   An easy way to clamp up a finger-jointed box is to cut the fingers a shade shorter, then plane or sand the sides til all is flush after glue-up.

   Chris @ www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
   and now www.flairwoodworks.com)

    - Success is not the key to happiness.  Happiness is the key to success.  If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer