I’m making a work table out of reclaimed lumber (lumberus crappus). I decided to do this to use the “free” wood and to get a decent work table while developing mortise and tenon skills. Table is made out of studs from a demolition project. (and yes, after cutting two nails on my table saw, I’m ordering a metal detector)
First question is about attaching the top to the legs. legs are mortise and tenon joined and look like the drawing in the attached picture. Top is 2″ thick (24″ x 44″) with no apron. I planned on having one stretcher between the legs, so I could store boxes and stuff underneath. I thought about attaching the top with 1″ dowels drilled through the top into the legs. Second idea was to use shelf brackets, but that just seems wrong. This is not a robust workbench that has to withstand big racking pressure, but I would like it to be pretty steady. I guess I could also use long bolts, screwed from underneath through the leg section. Suggestions on attaching top?
Second question is on finish. it will be stored outside in a hot, sometimes humid climate, with a canvas cover. Keeping in mind the low quality wood, what would I use to help preserve it?
Thanks for your suggestions.
Replies
I don't think going thru the top into the legs with dowels (or anything) is a good idea especially if you mean going into the end grain of the legs themselves. If the picture in your post shows a base and two legs as seen from the end of the table, and the picture is showing the top of the table rather than a cross beam, what you need is a beam where the top is. Then you can lag bolt the top on from underneath, through elongated holes in the beam to allow the table top to expand and contract. This is a very good idea indoors, but a must outdoors with large swings in temperature and humidity.
If for some reason you can't do this and must go thru the top into end grain I would go with long lag bolts, counter bore the holes in the top, elongate the lag bolt holes to allow the top to expand and contract across it's width and plug the holes to cover the bolt heads. To get any kind of hold in end grain it is worth boring a hole across the leg an inch or two below the top and gluing in a dowel. That gives the lag bolt something to bite into and will be less prone to pulling out than with end grain alone.
I'm sure there are better ideas out there but I thought I'd get you started. Good luck.
picture shows
Picture shows the base, two legs and a top beam, seen from the end. Table top will rest on top of the beam. Another person also suggested the lag bolts drilled up through the beam into the bottom of the table top, using slotted holes to allow for wood movement. that is probably what I'll do.
Any suggestions on a finish?
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled