Replies

1. 
   JohnWW | May 02, 2006 01:52am | #1

   I have to apologize for not answering this sooner, it got moved way down on my list of incoming e-mails and I didn't notice it when I checked for unanswered queastions.

   I need to ask a few questions before I can answer your question:

   Is the wood top a solid wood panel that has been routed out to hold the tile or is the top a frame, like a picture frame, made from four side pieces, with a routed lip to support the tile.  Also, how big is the tile and will the table be exposed to rain or perhaps be used to support a flower pot that might leak?

   Again, I apologize for being slow to respond to your question, I'll be prompt in responding once you have given me the additional information I need.

   John White 

1. 
   skipcarlson | May 02, 2006 04:53am | #2

   The top is solid oak with a routed out area for the tile.  The tile is 6x6 and will sit in the center of a 15x15 inch top.  The top is about 3/4 in thick the tile is about 1/4 inch thick.  It is supposed to be a plant stand - so yes it may get damp/or wet occasionally from an overwatered flowe pot. 

   my concern also is if I try to apply grout around the tile - will  the wood around it shrink and cause the grout to fall out? 

   I read that Stickley has some plant stands with inserted Grueby tiles - but there was no mention if it was grouted.

    

   Thanks for any infor you could give me.  

    

    

1. 
   JohnWW | May 04, 2006 06:29pm | #3

   Even without getting wet occasionally, the wood will move enough that a brittle grout will have problems.

   The easiest approach would be to just set the tile in loose leaving enough space, just 1/16", in the cross grain dimension for the top to shrink a bit if it dried out more than it is now.  This approach would allow you to remove the tile easily if it were damaged or if you wanted to refinish the table.  I would also drill five 1" diameter holes in the cavity area to allow trapped moisture to escape.  Four of the holes would be close to the corners and the fifth in the middle.

   If you wanted to seal around the tile I would make the cavity 1/16" deeper than the tile and 1/4" inch wider and longer.  I would also still drill the ventilation holes described above for the loose mount. 

   To install the tile I would place several small dots of silicone sealant on the floor of the cavity and then press the tile into the silicone making sure there was an even gap around the four edges and that the tile was flush or just slightly proud of the wood's surface.  To keep the tile centered while the silicone sets you may have to insert temporary shims between the edge of the tile and the sides of the opening.  

   After the silicone has fully set, you can then go around the edges with more silicone to seal in the tile.  Be sure to fully finish the wood part of the table before you install the tile since the silicone, if it gets on unfinished wood, makes it impossible to adhere a finish.  The silicone will also make it very difficult to refinish the table in the future since even minute amounts can cause finishing problems.

   For the silicone I would use the type that comes in caulking gun tubes and is designed for use in kitchens and baths, I found some in a local Home Depot.

   Hope this helps, John W.  

    

   Edited 5/4/2006 7:40 pm ET by JohnWW