Attaching Bies Fence to older Delta saw

Hobiedog | Posted in Power Tools and Machinery on January 5, 2005 12:16pm

Hi all,

I’m hoping to get some tips or suggestions for attaching a Biesemeyer commercial fence to my 1990 Delta 34-444 contractors saw.
According to the customer service at Biesemeyer, the holes for the Delta bolts are a fraction too low (which I already know from trying them), so they suggest mounting the front rail to the saw by drilling four 1/4″ holes in the front of the table and using the “other saw” setup.

Before I go drilling holes in my saw, does this sound like a reasonable solution? Has anyone had a similar problem?

Also, because of the way the motor mounts on the back of the saw, it hits the back rail before reaching 45 degree tilt. Biesemeyer suggests cutting out the part of the back rail that interferes with the motor mount.

Again, does this sound reasonable?

Thanks, in advance.

Replies

fumble | Jan 05, 2005 07:41am | #1
Hobiedog,

I mounted a the commercial version to my contractors saw a few years ago. My saw is a bit older than yours but it sounds like we were having the same rail alignment problem. I was able to mount the rails by drilling my own holes in the rail, not my saw table. Started by clamping the rail in position and marking the hole center on the rail, drilling, then chamfering. I had to source my own screws to match the existing threads on the saw table top. This worked out just fine and feel better for not drilling holes in my cast iron.

Had no problems with clearance in the rear. You may check the positioning of the rear rail or consider modifications.

Good Luck - you are about to be very happy with the selection of your new saw fence.

Michael
DougF | Jan 10, 2005 06:07pm | #2
20 years ago I modified a Craftsman TS to accept the Bies fence and had to make the same type of mods you are describing. In order to get a firm purchase, I drilled new holes through the fence rail and top. The metal is quite soft and you will have no problems. I elected to use bolts rather than tap the hole but either way works. I had to relieve a portion of the rear rail and make sure that I bolts on each side of the notch to prevent any potential distortion. Go for it!

Doug
Hobiedog | Jan 10, 2005 07:36pm | #3
Thanks to everyone for your advice.

This past weekend I was able to drill 4 new 1/4 holes in the table top that matched up with the extra holes in the rail with no problems. I used the bolts supplied with the fence and got it set up just fine. Seems rock solid now. I still have to cut out part of the back rail to allow the motor to tilt, but that shouldn't be to tough.

The fence is dead parallel with the blade and slides nicely over the extension table I built. I'm just waiting on a replacement guide tube before I do some test cuts (the ruler on the original guide tube was lumpy, so they are sending me a tube).

Thanks again for the help.

DougF | Jan 13, 2005 05:26pm | #4
"The fence is dead parallel with the blade..." You may want to consider skewing the rear of the fence a few thousandts off of dead-parallel. This will help minimize kick-back, burning and saw blade marks.

Doug

Edited 1/13/2005 12:21 pm ET by Doug