Replies

1. 
   Dave | Oct 27, 2005 06:31pm | #1

   I know, it's tough to think of drilling holes in that new fence.  What I did is build an upside down trough thing that fit over the sides and top of the fence.  It's long enough so I could cap the ends too just to keep it nice and snug.  I've got one for cutting tall stuff (end grain cuts, etc) and a sacrificial butcher fence. 

   WOrks for me?  You could also build something with clamps but...I'd probably steal the clamps for glue ups when I enevitably run out...LOL

    

2. 
   ram | Oct 27, 2005 06:50pm | #2

   Just me, I got a set of Board Buddies and I plan to bore holes in my Beisemeyer (older, pre-UHMW type -- melamine I think?), as you describe.  I don't see a problem with a couple of chamfered screw holes a little above the mid line of the fence.

   -robert

1. 
   Dunwright | Oct 28, 2005 06:37pm | #10

   I have used a pair of "Board Buddies" since the month they came out. On the two fences they were attached to, the fence "secured down" both at the front and rear. If your Beis fence does not have provision to lock down at the far end, won't it lift up under wheel pressure?Arlington, Texas (The dash in Dallas-Fort Worth)
   Practice...'till you can do it right the first time.

3. 
   scooter1 | Oct 27, 2005 07:12pm | #3

   Beis makes a tall fence. I use the tall one then clamp a board to it.

   Regards,

   Scooter

   "I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow." WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934

4. 
   TomT226 | Oct 27, 2005 07:40pm | #4

   Rip a piece of 3/4" melamine or MDF 38" long and 4" wide.  Rip a piece of 3/4" ply the same length and the same height as your fence.  Cut 4 spacers the same width as the ply, and 2" long.  Glue and brad the spacers to the ply.  When dry, mark, drill, and countersink holes in the MDF face.  Clamp the ply assembly to the MDF and secure with screws.  To use, place the ply assembly against the Bessie fence and clamp with "Quick Grip" type clamps.  The face may be replaced by removing the 4 mounting screws.

   What if Schrodinger's cat has nine lives?

5. 
   sapwood | Oct 28, 2005 04:04am | #5

   It's fine to drill holes through the fence. Use sheet metal screws....I use #10 size. There is no better or faster way.

6. 
   WillGeorge | Oct 28, 2005 06:38am | #6

   Do you have a drill? I can loan ya' several...

7. 
   crpntr5 | Oct 28, 2005 06:43am | #7

   I work in a small cabinet production shop and we use the same screw holes every time we out the sac fence on.  It's not a pet or a child you are screwing into man... it's a tool. Make it work for you, rule the tool dude.

   G. Cote

   Victoria Canada

1. 
   Arkansasridgerunner | Oct 28, 2005 05:21pm | #8

   Thanks for the info, you put things back into perspective for me.  I was just a little hesitant to drill holes in such a beautiful fence; don't know how I ever lived without it.

8. 
   whiteoak590 | Oct 28, 2005 06:09pm | #9

   Three years ago when I got my new jet cabinet saw I too wondered about attaching a board to my fence. After a year of periodicly wondering whether I should I finally did it and it has worded fine. I am very fortunate to live near Kelly Mehler who has written extensively about Table Saws. Last year when I took a class from him on Tablesaws I asked him about this and he said the boards on the fence were not necessary.

   I believe some authors have recommended them to cut down on kickback. Kelly feels that if the splitter is right you have the best defense against kickback. Unfortunately most American manufacturers do not put decent splitters on their saws.The riving knife type is the best but unfortunately most manufactures do not use it. The Europeans do use it and they have far fewer accidents with kickback. 

1. 
   WillGeorge | Oct 28, 2005 09:52pm | #11

   he said the boards on the fence were not necessary.

   YEP.. Till ya do something stupid like the blade cut into it!Sorry... I was thinking router bit...

   Edited 10/28/2005 2:53 pm by WillGeorge