The dining room table is moving along nicely. It is an extension table which will have 3 leaves. Table closed is 48″ wide and 78″ long. 4 legs and 3″ aprons for the base set in 6″ from the edge.
Two questions.
1. Where in the 48″ width would you put the slides? I figure 12″ in from each side.
2. Each 1/2 of the table is 48″ wide and 39″ long and made from a single slab of bubinga. I have used metal clips around 3 sides of each slab. The clips do not hold the apron at he center since the clips are to allow for seasonal movement. How can I attach the apron at the center where the two slabs meet and still allow for seasonal movement.
Any thoughts?
ASK
Replies
ASK, "Each 1/2 of the table is 48" wide and 39" long and made from a single slab of bubinga" Krikey! that is one huge piece of bubinga! Can you post any images to clarify your question? Rich
Rich,
I'm trying to attach a drawing to this reply without having much success. Clicking the attach files button does nothing.
I'll try again tomorrow.
The original bubinga slab was 53" X 98" X 5/4"
I bought two additional pieces which were 26" X 132" X 5/4"
There was also a piece which is 36" X 200" (about 17') X 6/4" which I didn't buy.
Since the table will extend from the closed size of 78" long to 128" long when fully extended the apron is only on 3 sides of each 1/2 to allow for the extension slides. If it were not an extension table the top would have clips on all four sides along the apron but since the center does not have an apron the apron along the sides doesn't attach to anything and possibly will not stay in its correct position.
I'm not sure I understand what I just said, so I'll try and attach the drawing tomorrow.
ASK
ASK, The apron "halves" under the "long dimension" of the table can be attached to the underside of their associated bubinga slabs without provision for movement between the slabs and the apron pieces. There will be no relative movement as both those structures are in the long grain orientation. Only the apron pieces which cross the slab (that are under the table's short, or cross-grain dimension) need to accomodate movement. Rich
Rich,
Thanks. I think that solves my problem
I'd still like to see a pic of that bubinga slab!
Rich
After the weekend. The table is un Mass and I'm in NYC during the week.
Each half now is 42" wide X 36" long. There will be a 3" edge around the whole table. The original slab was 53" wide but it had live wood at the edges which is a lot lighter so it had to be cut and the 3" edge will be added.
ASK
A 3" edge around the whole table . . . hmm. How are you accommodating wood movement for that?
Rich
Grain along the long sides is the same direction. Along the other, short, direction I'm going to pray.
Any thoughts?
ASK
Prayer is good. But it's never been known to stop wood movement. (God already has established that as a universal constant. All gnashing of teeth to the contrary is pretty much ignored upstairs)
You will have to accomodate the movement of that slab against the "banding" piece across the short grain direction of the bubinga. And it WILL move! I figure at least 3/8" across the 48" dimension over a relative humidity change from a typical low of 20% in winter (heated home) to 65% in summer.
There are many strategies, but it depends on the design. What is the design? A mitered border will be the hardest to accomodate, and possibly so hard as to be impractical. The easiest would be a breadboard end. Why is the bubinga slab going to have a border?
Rich
Edited 1/3/2007 12:41 pm ET by Rich14
Edge detail. Ebony inlay along the seam (design feature) and as I indicated the live wood at the edges of the uncut slab looked like they were from a different tree.
Bread board ends sounds like a possibility
ASK
ASK,
I don't want to even sound like I'm giving advice that "redesigns" your table. But there are realities to be considered. You've got a huge slab of bubinga becoming a rather large table. I would not "edge" it with anything. The bubinga is what it is. I think the polished end grain of that 5/4 wood will look great, if not super great! So will the long grain edges.
Edge banding is done to hide the edge of MDF or plywood substrate. You've got the real thing! So I would encourage you to use it.
Besides, edge banding is going to create such problems. I don't understand what a breadboard end will accomplish. Is the slab flat? Are you anticipating the end resisting warping? It won't!
With a breadboard end, the end and the slab will be different sizes at various times of the year. That's OK, it's the nature of such construction. In fact, I like the evidence of the movement that it shows.
With a mitered "frame" around the table edge, I would have to design the top to have a "gap" down the middle of its length. The gap could be a straight line, or a sinuous curve.
With the gap allowing for movement, the slab and frame are pinned at the outer ends of the short grain frame members, loose toward the center, allowing the slab to expand "inwards" as needed. The gap would shrink and grow as the slab took up and released moisture. I don't think any other means would allow a tight-fitting frame. Such frame construction is really for a MDF or plywood table veneered with typical thin material.
Rich
If you don't want a big crack down the middle you better look at pinning the cross gain piece allowing for expansion/contraction. I have a table top in my shop that I don't burn because the big crack down the middle reminds me that glue is stronger than wood.
Bill
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