Replies

1. 
   RalphBarker | Dec 18, 2009 10:30am | #1

   I would think that a lot depends on the shape of the oval, and how acute the radius is where the legs will be attached, along with what sort of stresses the table will be subjected to in normal use.

   It seems to me that the curve of the oval would complicate doing mortices and tenons, either loose or integral, since both need to be more shallow than normal to fit within the curve.

   I'd be tempted to notch the top of the legs to fit behind and beneath the apron, and attach the legs to the apron with a line of screws (3 perhaps) in a vertical line along the center of the leg. That should allow the cross grain of the leg to expand without affecting the oval. Whether the screw holes in the leg top need to be slotted for expansion might depend on how much the apron would be expected to expand.

   I might also add a triangular brace between the top of the leg and the table top, slotting the top attachment hole for expansion.

   But, I'm certainly no expert at this. Others may have better ideas.

2. 
   Jfrostjr | Dec 18, 2009 12:15pm | #2

   I have built two demi-lune tables, a la Philip Lowe. His suggestion is to use a bridal joint.

   The leg is formed with two sections so that it resembles a tuning fork and slides over a recess in the apron. The apron thickness is reduced at the leg location to accept the leg, which overlaps on both sides. A very strong joint.

   Two important points to consider:

   how much 'reveal' do you want at the front of the leg to the front of the apron. 1/8" is good.

   When machining the apron, be sure that the sides of the recesses are are at right angles to the wide part of the recess so there are no gaps when the leg is slid over the apron.

1. 
   donkondra1 | Dec 19, 2009 06:30am | #3

   Why make things more complicated than they need to be?

   I use a loose spline and add a brace from the inside. For oval's my rails are bent laminations @ 1 1/8" thick.

3. 
   JeffHeath | Dec 19, 2009 08:10am | #4

   How thick is the apron lamination? How wide is your leg stock at the top? Two important questions that need to be addressed. You can attach the apron to the legs with tradition mortise and tenon joinery, which would be the best for strength, or you could also use a bridal joint. With the bridal joint, depending on how tight the radius is, you can hand plane a small 'flat' so that you're not trying to cut a bridal slot in the top of the leg with a radius to match. Also, I would pin the bridal joint. You can do it from the front with a contrasting peg for an added design element, or you can simply do it from behind if you don't want it seen.

   I would stay away from screws. That's how Ikea makes tables that need to be replaced every 10 years or so.

   Jeff

1. 
   RalphBarker | Dec 19, 2009 04:24pm | #8

   "I would stay away from screws. That's how Ikea makes tables that need to be replaced every 10 years or so."

   True, but screws into threaded inserts can be an advantage when moving. Otherwise, the movers will likely break the legs off the table anyway. ;-)

4. 
   joinerswork | Dec 19, 2009 10:06am | #5

   cc,

   The bridle (not bridal- that's a wedding term:-) ) joint is probably the one most often seen on old work. The edges of the leg's top are sometimes bevelled, and the edges of the apron's recesses angled to match- creating a sort of double-sliding dovetail- in the best work. This addition does add some strength, resisting the tendency of the leg to split when the table is dragged over a rough or carpeted floor.

   The forces thus placed on the legs argue against simply notching the leg and screwing it to the back of the apron.

   I've also used loose tenons and have cut tenons as well. The problems encountered with either of these are ones of jigging/ cutting accurately to place the tenons just where you want them, and at the correct angle, so that the aprons form a fair curve across the leg joint. Short grain can also be a problem, if the aprons are bricklaid, at least some of the bricks will have short grain areas.

   With any of the joints, it isn't a bad idea to add a wooden brace, fitted to the inside of the apron and stepping across the back of the leg, glued and screwed. Just for insurance.

   Ray

1. 
   JeffHeath | Dec 19, 2009 02:26pm | #7

   Ray,

   Please forgive my spelling error of the ever infamous bridle joint. It's been so long since I've had a paying job, that I must be undernourished, and the brain is suffering!

   Hope you and your family have a great holiday season!

   My very best,

   Jeff

1. 
   joinerswork | Dec 20, 2009 10:08am | #9

   Hi Jeff,

   You are forgiven. Go in peace my son;-))

   I hope I didn't come across as too pedantic. Bridal/bridle- one of those words that spell check won't help with.

   Re: those paying jobs--I'll say to you what I said to a musician customer the other day, We'll just have to do like Little Jimmy Dickens used to say, "put more water in the soup, there's better times a-comin"!

   Have a good Christmas,

   Ray

5. 
   cc378 | Dec 19, 2009 01:18pm | #6

   Thanks to all for the great advice. It will be a bridal joint for me.

1. 
   joinerswork | Dec 20, 2009 10:10am | #10

   cc,

   Congratulations on your choice. I'm sure you and your bride will be very happy.

   HAHAHAHA

   Have a great holiday season,

   Ray