hi to all,
i have built a shelf mantel that will “float”. it is approx. 5.5′ wide and 10″ deep and weighs maybe 50 or 60 lbs.
there is an old brick facade where the mantel will attach. does anyone have a recommendation regarding how to secure the mantel into the wall without brackets that show. it will look like the mantel is floating. i have heard that some people have used steel rods that are somehow affixed to the wall and then drill appropriate size holes in the back of the mantel to secure it to the wall.
is this the best way to do this? and what type of rods are used and how are they securely attached into the brick facade???
thanks for the help.
Replies
1/2" threaded rod, about 10" long, 3.5 into the brick and 6.5 or so into the mantel. Then drill pilot holes from underneath thru each of the four or five rods.Use a set screw or make em by grinding off the tips of screws, and use a couple per rod to hold the mantel. This takes good accuracy, so be patient during layout.
You can use mortar or epoxy to hold the rods in the brick. Good luck.
many thanks for the help.
I would try to punch some of the 1/2" rods on through the brick facade and into 2x4 studs if you can. If they only go into the bricks, then with time the weight might loosen up the morter. If you can go through the bricks at the morter joints the drilling would be easier.
If by chance there might be a 2x10 or 2x12 header in the wall over the fireplace opening, then you might consider using 5/8" steel rods. Liquid Nails could be used to hold the rods in the wall.
PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)
PlaneWood
Hello Zac1: I have tried drilling for rods before and have encountered problems with sagging. Rather, you could remove the brick veneer down to the drywall, remove the drywall and expose the framing (apprx. one foot above and below the mantel as well as six inches on the sides. Through this cavity you can see the framework and beef it up if need be. Cut a piece of half inch plywood to fit the opening and center it to the back of the mantle using PL400 and wood screws. You can then take this complete unit and using PL400, glue and screw it to your framework. This should be flush with your gyproc and you can put your brick veneer back in place around the mantle - which will make it look like it's floating. That's how I did mine and I can literally do chin-ups on it! Good luck.
hi saltboxdesig,i am not sure what is behind the brick (it may be solid brick, not veneer). i have tried to upload a jpeg of the mantel area and hope this works. let me know what you think.thanks,
z
Most likely solid brick behind the exposed brick. Above that the firebox tapers for the throat, and may have framing behind it.
I agree with a previous poster that construction adhesive works well in this situation, and may be the best choice as it has more "give" than mortar or epoxy.
If you haven't already cut the mantle, you could also sandwich it between rows of brick with adhesive for added strength."Anything is possible with a big enough expense account."
Hunter S. Thompson
How about something different?? Hollow out the back of the mantle (make a giant mortice). Attach a matching tennon to the brick with bolts held in place with epoxy. Place he morticed mantle over the wall mounted tennon and attach with screws for removal at a later date, or.. finishing nails if you're real brave.
SawdustSteve
sawdust,i had begun to mortise the back when i realized that the "tenon" needed to be substantial and that attaching it to the brick might be as difficult as the mantel. the tenon piece needs to be about 4 - 5" deep and then the issue is what to attach the tenon with to secure it to the brick so that it is stable. any thoughts?z1
I'd start by drilling 4 or 5 3/8"holes through the 'tennon piece'. I would line up the 'tennon' on the wall exactly where I want the mantle to go. Use a level and get it set perfectly. Use the holes in this tennon to act as a guide and drill through the brick with a 3/8" carbide bit. Remove ALL the debris from the hole. Put in a good measure of a GOOD epoxy and insert lengths of 3/8-16 threaded rod. Let the whole thing set overnight. Place the 'tennon' onto the threaded studs, follow with a washer and nut. Tighten the nut to anchor the 'tennon' to the wall. Slide the morticed mantle over it and fasten with countersunk screws, both top and bottom going into the 'tennon'. You may want to countersink the nut/washer set so it sits flat with the outer surface of the 'tennon'. SawdustSteve
thanks for your help. i will give your idea a try and see how it goes.
zac,
The mantels I've built have been attached with lead masonry anchors and lag bolts. I've done something similar to what you are describing by hanging the mantle onto 3 or 4, 3/8" bolts like you'd hang a picture using a keyhole router bit. Drill a 1" or so dia. hole into the back of the mantel and inlet a 1/4" steel plate over a recess above the hole. You'll need a notch in the steel plate, for the shank of the bolt to slip into. It'll take a while to adjust the projection of the bolts, to get a slip, not a rattle, fit between the mantel and the irregular bricks.
Alternatively, I've drilled thru the face of the mantel, and attached with lag bolts countersunk flush with the face. Cover the bolts with a molding, or thin trim board. Requires prior planning, to incorporate bolt placement into the design of the mantel.
Regards,
Ray
I attached a mantle a few years ago by hanging it on two matching pieces of lumber, cut at about 45 angle. One I mounted onto the brick using masonry screws, with the angled cut running out and up. The other was built into the back of the mantle, and would slide down onto the mounted one, just like some cabinets are hung on the wall. Two screws were hidden on each end and solidified everything. The client was very pleased, as it was as solid as the brick.
Just a thought.
If the middle portion of your mantel is hollow you can hang it with a french cleat. Think of this as a 4/4 board that is ripped at an angle. The piece that has the angle pointing up goes on the wall, the piece that mates is installed into the interior of the mantel, and it is simply hung on the wall (brick area).
John
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