At the risk of presenting a very stupid question: How do I attach my router to a shopmade router table?
At first I assumed that the phenolic plate and metal disk insert should be removed from the base before the router is attached to the underside of the table. Then I noticed that the plate has two extra holes that provide access to two threaded holes in the base.
If these holes for attaching the router to the table, then (a) does the plate stay on, (b) what about the disk insert, and (c) is the router held on by only two screws?
When the plate is removed I see two additional holes in the base. These are not threaded, so I’m guessing that they are not for fastening.
Replies
DW
First, what kind of router you got? If my memory serves me correct, that looks like the base of a Bosch 1617 EVS. If so, I wondered the same thing when I mounted. You can call Bosch tech support (number in your owners manual) to clarify. If some other router, I can clarify what I did. The Bosch tech told me the unthreaded holes were 1/4" which they're not.
Again, what router. Will get back to computer when I can as on vacation and super busy in shop.
Good luck and get back if Bosch doesn't answer your question.
sarge..jt
Sarge, it's a Dewalt DW621, which has a dust-extraction port with no place to go, as I don't own a shop vacuum.
I plan to call Dewalt, but would not be surprised if they, mindful of product liability lawsuits, just said "We do not recommend using a handheld router in a table" and refuse to tell me how to attach it.
Sarge,
Thanks for your advice. DeWalt had the answers:
Yes, the subbase (phenolic plate and "guide bushing adapter") are removed in order to reclaim the 1/8" of vertical space.
No, they don't know* why the plate is open over the mounting holes.
Yes, just the two threaded holes are needed to attach the router to the table, using 6mX1.0 screws.
No, they don't know* what the two unthreaded holes are for.
*The reason they don't know: This router was made by a Swiss company, Elu. DeWalt acquired Elu and didn't change their tools, except to turn them bright yellow.
This table is just 3/4" plywood with siderails of angle iron from an unneeded bed frame that I couldn't bear to throw out (my husband is a saint). One advantage of this style: It can be turned over, so making adjustments is easy.
Although I am inordinately pleased to have even a primitive router table, I am already wondering how to improve it. Inserts, for example. Is the cutting portion of the bit always above the table, so only two inserts are needed (to accommodate 1/4" and 1/2" shanks)?
Janet (D.W. Read)
Edited 11/5/2002 8:02:20 PM ET by DWREAD
DW,
I have been toying with the idea of building me a router table. Do you mind sharing a photo of yours? Always looking for ideas.
TMarcello,
This thing is embarrassingly primitive, truly. Good thing it won't fit on my scanner! But I will draw the basics and post that.
Janet (a.k.a. D.W. Read)
Basics are good. Thanks. Besides, it does not need to look great to do its intended job properly.
TMarcello,
Already there are things I would have done differently. For example, these plans for a router table (http://www.dewalt.com/us/articles/article.asp?Site=woodworking&ID=201) recommend plastic laminate, sanded (!) to a slick surface.
Now I know why they put extra holes in the phenolic plate: So you can use the plate to mark the locations of the mounting screws.
Basic steps, using my plunge router:
Start with 3/4" plywood at least 18"x18" (mine was 24"x18"). On the top (smoother) side, draw lines between diagonal corners to locate the center.
Remove the subplate from the router, place it bottom-side-up on the top side of the plywood, with the opening over the center mark. Mark the holes for the mounting screws (see plate.jpg). Drill and countersink the holes.
Turn the plywood over so the underside is up. Insert a bit into the router and attach the router to the plywood with the screws.
Trace the footprint of the router onto the plywood and mark where the front of the router is (see under.jpg). That makes it easier to position the next time you reattach it to the table.
Turn on the router and lower the bit to cut the hole through the plywood. Unplug the router.
I reinforced the long edges with two 34"-long pieces of angle iron from a spare bed frame. Each piece had two rivets in the middle that prevented the plywood from lying flat against the metal. Instead of notching out that section, I drilled blind holes into the underside so the rivets would prevent plywood and metal from slipping apart.
Turn the whole works over (see top.jpg), and support both ends of the angle irons. I used my tablesaw and workbench, which put the bit at a convenient height.
That's pretty much it! Any suggestions on how to modify it to accommodate inserts?
Edited 11/6/2002 1:53:43 PM ET by DWREAD
Edited 11/6/2002 1:59:55 PM ET by DWREAD
Thanks for the info, I'll need to digest it.
Marcello
Here are the drawings.
By the way, my Elu/DeWalt router has a plug with only two prongs. Is this dangerous?
Janet
It is probably a double insulated unit. I take it only the ground is missing. It should be ok, but then again I am not an electrician... Maybe some one else can chime in here.
Janet
Sorry to butt in, headed to shop. The two prong is self-grounded so the 3rd plug (ground prong) is not necessary.
G;day..
sarge..jt
DW
With your permission, I will use Janet. I'm kind of a down-home kind of person. Welcome to the forum. Wish more women would drop in. Run into a large number in a local club that are just getting started. IMHO, it's about time you gals showed up. WW is for everyone that has been afflicted with the "spirit of wood" , Kodama as the Japanese say.
Glad DwWalt answered your questions. Now, you say they said 2 holes that will use a 6mm 1" screw. Did you say that the other two holes are un-threaded? I think I remember that. I will make my point.
6mm is not a lot of screw to hold the router in only two positions. I'm not saying it wouldn't, but watch carefully for any movement or tilt of the bit to the side once mounted. Please check this as IMO, I don't consider it adequate. The weight of the router and the over 20,000 rpm meeting hard-wood can cause the screws to loosen and back out. 6 mm is not a big screw.
My opinion ( and I am no engineer ) I would use the two additional holes in the base and drill and counter-sink two additonal in your table or insert and add two more 10mm screws. Attach with a nut and lock washer on top of the router as they will be hidden under-neath the table or insert anyway. Could even use thumbscrews for quicker release if you use the router both ways. Now you got heavy-duty and a safer scenario.
Are the bits above the table and two size holes in the insert all that is necessary. The bits have to be above the insert or table to cut. Standard hole is around 7/8". This will not accept larger bits with an anti-kickback design. You need several size holes for different width bits. The cheapest way to attain this is get an insert from Rockler or Eagle America that has a large hole in center and different size inserts that snap in.
The plywood table is ok. Birch plywood would be best as it has a very hard veneer of hard birch that is relatively slick. MDF glued together or a combination would be less likely to warp. Needs to be sealed to keep moisture out and cause movement in the table. The angle iron will help prevent, also.
I make most of my tables and cabinets. The picture is a combo router and edge-jointer I made with 2 sheets MDF glued and screwed. Both sides sealed with laminate. I designed the fence which has a sliding 2 portion face. I can add shims behind the outfeed portion and with a straight bit perform edging. The home-made cabinet has storage in the bottom and the shelf catchs sawdust in the top. The cabinet also reduces noise. With a built-on dust port in the fence I get literally no sawdust escape.
Sorry to be so lengthy, but hoping you catch some ideas as around 30 years ago I was using that same piece of plywood with a Shopmate circular saw mounted underneath. If someone hadn't told me there was a better way, I might still be. I was happy and doing good work with the primitive approach. Now, I'm still happy and doing good work with all the high-tech tools available. I still got that piece of plywood and Shopmate though. Just in case of financial emergency I can liquidate for around $5000.
Wonder if I could still do good work with it?! I bet I could... Basics, learn the Basics.. That, common sense and desire is more important than all the high-tech tools money can buy..
Have a good day maam..
sarge..jt
Sarge
The rebadged Elu (DeWatt) is made to European specs. All the threads, etc are metric. 6mmx1.0 is a 6mm diameter screw with a 1.0mm thread pitch - basically want to use a 6mmx1.0 machine screws. I can get em with a countersunk head but a standard hex head should also be available. Assuming you've got the enough thickness in the top drill a flat bottomed hole large enough to accomodate the head and then sandwich a spring washer between the head and a flat washer. The threaded hole in the base acts as the nut. You could try retapping the hole to take a US size bolt, you will probably have to enlarge the hole to 9/32 and you run the risk of taking too much meat out of the base. Also the base is some light weight alloy. It's probably easier to source screws the right size.
On metric screws, many look close to US sizes. However, with any tool made in Japan or Europe I would advise on insisting that the service department prove that a thread is US not metric. You can usually force a slightly larger steel screw through an alloy base.
Also welcome to Janet
Ian
ian
Thanks for the explanation of metric. I am relatively familar with as I worked foreign cars back in 70' thru 73'. I did not realize the 1 was the thread pitch. Similar to our 24 or 32 threads per inch.
I used the three on the Bosch and re-tapped the 4th. My BIL is a machinist Delta Air Lines and have access to about any metal working tools. In my case a good BIL story. Ha..
For Janets info we can get counter-sunk metrics at various places here. I usually get them at Highland Hardware here in Atlanta. http://www.highlandhardware.com Also, my local Home Depot has them. You just have to know where to look there. They keep them in drawers down low beside the American SAE's. Should not be a problem.
While I got you, give me your read on Elu. Read a few reviews that were good. Prefer to get the info straight from the horse's mouth. Ha.. Any feed would be appreciated.
Are you in Great Britain? I have owned 3 different Austin Healey 3000's back in the 70's. Wish I still had them. Like land value, the price doesn't go down. Especially after Healey's death in 67' ( if memory serves me correct ). Had a TR-3 also in early 70's.
Again thanks and g'day..
sarge..jt
Sarge
G'day. Glad you understand about metric threads, some of them are darn close to SAE.
I'm located in Australia, opposite side of the world to Great Brittain. Haven't used any Elu tools, though see 'em in stores and at tool shows. They are generally priced above what I can affort or are a tool I can't really convince myself I need a second one of. Have a mixture of portable tools, mostly Makita with some Bosch and two Festo. The Festos are very, very nice - but real expensive, currently saving for one of their Rotex sanders.
For me wood working is a hobby that lets me produce something physical after sitting at a PC all day.
Ian
Elu made CNC router tables also. For bit changing the router was changed and the holes were for dowel pins for lining up the router. Since DeWalt is not selling that side of Elu, it's not surprising that they wouldn't know what those pins were for. There are some web sites that discuss the cnc machines.
Don
....Did a little more searching and it seems some router inserts also use pins for multiple table operations. The pins are used to ensure consistent router to fence distances. The article I read had to do with making raised panels with multiple tables. Guess the tapered head screws are not considered to be accurate enough for such operations.
Edited 11/6/2002 7:26:41 AM ET by Don C.
Don
Thanks for the explnation on the holes. When I called Bosch to get a fix on their holes, I was told they were 1/4". Not even close according to my micrometer. Ha... If the Bosch Tech folks don't know, it doesn't surprise me that the DW folks don't either. I wonder if they hire people from Man-power if they are short-handed. he..he..
Have a good day..
sarge..jt
ian
Thanks for the input on the Elu, mate. I think that's how you Aussie's say it. Ha.. I've been to NSW twice. Got some great customers there to (Ponti-World in Sydney). Love your country and friendly people. They have an attitude similar to the way I grew up in the southern U.S. Hope to make it back someday.
I was interested in the Elu as from what is said here, the DW is their design. I am sometimes leary of DW. They got their hits and misses as all tool companies. The DW scroll was designed by Excalibur and is good. If that plunge router was designed by Elu, it is worth looking into. I have a Bosch EVS mounted in the cabinet and a PC plunge that was part of a combo kit. The PC from the kit is not everything I want it to be. They have a great plunge, but I won't pay the price. Just looking at the DW as an option as I can usually get a reco from a service center about 12 miles away.
G'day mate..
sarge..jt
Sarge,
I hate to butt in but good job on your table! I'm about to build myself a new and improved one and everyones questions and answeres helps.Including the lady wood workers about the mounting bolts.
Thanks for posting the pic,
Bo
Bo
Thanks for the compliment. Not to used to that. I take a lot of pride building a majority of my own equipment. When you look at the price of some of the tools and accessories, just makes sense to me. I won't tell you I can't afford to buy at this stage of life, but I prefer to make things to my specifications so I don't have to complain latter it should have this or it shouldn't have that. Ha.....
Good luck with your table up-grade. Take your time and plan it out b-4 you start. Most mistakes can be eliminated b-4 they happen. I read that somewhere, I have never made a mistake.... Just ask my wife! he..he..he
sarge..jt
Janet
Opps.. Mental mistake and correction.. 6mm is not all that small. I am on vacation this week and was working in shop till 5 AM last nite. I was thinking #6 screw.
Still I would consider at least 3 screws if not 4.
Sorry for the mistake..
sarge..jt
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