Daughter no.2 has requested a 6 ft high, 26 in wide, 12 in deep bookcase. Mounted on tapered, splayed, round wooden legs. Walnut. I’ll likely use 4/4 stock milled to hopefully something over 3/4 for the case and shelves. I’m thinking stopped sliding dovetails for the shelving and the top, which I’ve never done but since it won’t have a back on the top 4-5 ft of the case I’m hoping that’ll give me enough lateral strength to keep it square. The bottom 8-12 in of the case will be for a couple of drawers.
I’ll likely turn the legs out of 8/4 stock. Her desire is for no stretchers on the legs… My first question is on how to attach the legs, particularly with them being splayed. My first thought is with a round through tenon like one would use on a stool. Never have done that but am willing to give it a try. I’m hoping to keep the front on, floor level visible part of the legs to less than 8 inches. Maybe the bottom shelf (Mortised for the leg tenons needs to be out of 8/4…
My thoughts are that a metal plate mount on the underside of the cabinet won’t be strong enough for a bookcase. ??
Any and all thoughts or alternative ideas welcome. The kids just keep tossing pics from Wayfare to me when I ask’em for what they’re looking for.
Replies
You can use the back of the drawer section for racking strength.
If you can stomach a skirt at the base, tenon your legs into more substatntal blocks and screw the blocks to the underside of the case, concealing them behind the skirt.
You won't need much skirt with them so close to the ground. You'll be able to use single-splay blocks and get the second angle by turning them to the corners.
Metal plates with hanger bolts could work, and will get stronger with less splay, but remind them not to drag it while loaded!
You could save yourself a little trouble and buy 2" dowels for the legs and stain them. This is probably too simplistic but drill, say a 1" hole through the centers of the legs and use a dowel to connect them. I'd use pocket holes to connect the legs to the cabinet, making sure the cabinet-side and floor angles are the same for balance.
There are better ideas out there but that's what I'd do.
Mikaol
Thanks MJ and Mikaol. You’re both a great help. I’ll going to run the idea of a full around skirt by her. And if that fails, using dowel rod as a loose tenon might save me a bit of geometry for the top of the legs. I don’t turn much and it’s been a while. Heck I might just start out with doweling in the legs And work the taper down on the dowel. IIRC, I think I know where I can find walnut dowel rod but maybe not 2 in.
Telling them not to drag it loaded? Nope, I know her.
Again, thank you both.
Haaaa... don't ask her, just tell her you'll build it. Letting the "client" manage the design process is slow death. She'll love what you present.
From your description I got the idea of Mid-Century Modern style legs. I know you said walnut. I used a lighter color for this sketch so it would be easier to see. Tall edging at the front and back would help to give some racking resistance.
You’ve got it Dave. I saw Mid-Century too in what she’s wanting. I think a back behind the 2 drawers she’s wanting will help stiffen it up. Your sketch has me thinking about going with thicker shelves too. I appreciate the sketch. Thanks!
Glad that helps.
I must admit I missed the part about the drawers. That changes things a lot. I expect it the bottom half or even third has drawers and you add a back behind them, you will gain a lot of rigidity so the upper part can mange without a back. Although you can't really tell, I modeled the sides at 7/8 in. thick and the same for the shelves. I don't know that I would make the shelves thicker for this piece.
As for the legs, I based them off the McCobb Mid-Century Modern legs from TableLegs.com. They offer the legs with hardware along with metal mounting plates and wood mounting cleats. I've not purchased from them but it looks like they'd save you a lot of work and the prices don't seem out of line to me.
Good luck.
@DaveRichards has the right of it here - mid century modern furniture usually uses angled metal plates which are threaded to take a lag screw bolt. This allows legs to be changed if desired, and is plenty strong enough for most uses. You can even buy the legs pre-turned...
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313&_nkw=angled+table+leg+mount+plate&_sacat=0
MJ, it took me a bit of brain time to figure out your block solution. I like it and I think it’ll hold up best in the long term. I particularly like that it gives me multiple shots at getting the mortise bore right without putting my bottom shelf at risk of error. I took your advice and advised my “client” the darn thing was gonna have a small skirt. She said, as you predicted, “Dad, that’ll be great.” And I’ll heed your advice in the future!
Haaaaaaa... great.
I added a couple of drawers to the case.
I would like to comment on the sliding dovetail shelves. If you've never done sliding dovetails, you're in for a treat.
Actually they're not that hard to do. Make a jig with one side about tapering about 1/8" wider. Route center of dado out with straight bit, then follow with a dt bit. Really helps to have 2 routers set up with the straight and dt bits.
Be sure to leave the shelves wide and cut to width after fitting.
That said, they probably aren't necessary as DaveRichards said.
...and make sure you have the level, non-tapered side down so your shelves are level even with a slightly wonky fit. I had one not seat entirely..could not get it out either. I added wood to the front and trimmed the back to bring it flush, but the shelf wound up a touch lower than I intended.
Dave, thx for the updated rendering. Robert & MJ thx for the sliding dovetail tip. Nope, have never done them but and was considering just a full blind flat tenon. I suspect the “in for a treat” comment will push me into giving them a try. Many thanks to all!
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