Hi all,
I recently purchased some vintage Craftsman auger bits at an estate sale. The bits look similar to Irwin bits. After de-rusting and sharpening with an auger bit file I tried putting the bits to use. They were usable, though tough to turn in pine, but when I tried them in white oak they would only feed to the end of the lead screw and would stop advancing when the main cutters engaged the wood.
After some research I determined that the bits had been filed incorrectly leaving small bevels on the bottom of the cutters. The bevels kept the bits from cutting into the board. Admittedly, some of the faulty filing was done by yours truly. I managed to correct a few of the bits with some careful filing to remove the under bevels. Still the bits are a pretty tough slog in hardwood. I think they are of the more aggressive pattern and work best in softer woods.
So, do I accept the limitations of these bits and look for some Jennings bits for hardwood? Or is there something else I can do to improve the cut with these bits. By the way, the lead screws are in good shape and wings look good and not filed on the outside.
Thanks and happy new year.
Replies
It is hard to say without seeing them. However, from your description, I would say that if they have an incorrect bevel on the underside, they are probably never going to cut well. They should cut equally well in hard or soft wood. Check out this video: https://www.finewoodworking.com/2019/09/04/how-to-sharpen-an-auger-bit
In addition to bad filing, there are two types of lead screws on auger bits. Some have fine threads, others have course. Course threads are good for softwood, but will strip out in very hard wood. Once that pyramid has stripped out, it essentially blocks the spurs from cutting, and you will never make a hole. Fine threads won't work at all in end grain, because they strip out too easily.
Once you think the cutting edge or edges are filed right, try the bit in both hard and soft wood. You'll see a difference.
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