Replies

1. 
   SteveSchoene | May 10, 2009 07:16am | #1

   It will probably do a bit better than the Watco Exteror Wood in the recent FWW test article, as long as you get the most pigmented variety of the product.  But expect to reapply a couple of times a season. 

   If at all possible lose the pine.  If you let it get away from you once, pine could deteriorate much faster than the other woods.  If you use only white oak or cedar you could eliminate the finish and get a nice grey look that would hold up for a very long time.  (Just seal the ground contact surfaces with epoxy.) 

1. 
   KiddervilleAcres | May 10, 2009 04:45pm | #2

   Steve,

   Thanks for the advice.

   I used pine as I felt it will be a bit more solid than cedar for structural reasons.  To make the long leg frame piece I needed 2" x 10" stock and that size stock in cedar wasn't available - white oak in my area is rare not to mention the sizes I would need.

   I could glue two pieces of cedar together to get the 10" width needed but am not sure how strong this would be compared to pine.  If I were to do this I'm wondering if Titebond II or III would work, assuming a finish will be applied?

   As to the Australian Timber Oil, I'm a bit concerned by your stating, expect to reapply a couple of times a season.  That doesn't sound too promising to me.  Also you recommended the most pigmented variety of the product.  I believe that would be their mahogany product.  I want to leave the wood, especially the slats, as natural as possible.  I suppose I could use the mahogany product for the leg frames and use another for the slats..... 

   Please don't take my comments as a criticism of your response but rather a concern about the finish (Australian Timber Oil).  Also I'm remiss as I didn't mention my goal in terms of the finished look.  I apologize for that.

   Would a Sikkens product be a better choice given that I want to leave the wood as natural as possible?  In this case I really don't want the weathered gray look.

   Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres

   A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!

1. 
   SteveSchoene | May 10, 2009 07:56pm | #3

   It is a real issue to get clear finishes for exterior wood, especially if it gets plenty of sun.  Even the very best systems--7 brushed on coats of Epifanes varnish, or a couple of fewer coats over low viscosity epoxy (both discussed in the May/June 2009 FWW issue)  can be expected to last 1 season in full sun, and then should be scuff sanded and another coat applied.  (You might get an extra season in the far north, and with shade.)  Any dings need to be fixed immediately.  And, this is about the best.  And, it gives a thick glossy film finish that you may or may not enjoy setting on.  Other finishes will not perform as well and can be expected to require more frequent maintainence.  . 

   The sun does two thing to exterior finishes.  One it deteriorates the coating material--you notice this be a bit of dulling of the finish.  There is one class of UV absorbers that counteract this, but as they work they become used up and need refreshing.  The other thing that happens is that the lignins on the surface of the wood itself start to break down.  When this happens the finish no longer adheres to the wood, and it shows up with varnish as yellow patches where the separation has occurred.  Again as the UV protectors work they break down.  To get enough of the UV absorbed in a clear finish requires thickness of the film.  In the wood finishes don't have that thickness, so require more frequent renewal. 

   I haven't found lots of advantages in the Cetol products, which call for pigmented base coats with the Clear version being intended for use only over the base coats.  This is because pigment blocks UV from reaching the wood.  I've also seen it turn dark over time. 

   About the only way to have your cake and eat it too is to have sun block covers made for the furnture.  (The most common brand here is Sunbrella.) 

   .   

2. 
   mrbird90 | May 10, 2009 11:11pm | #4

   On any yard furniture that will be in contact with cement, stone, brick, etc I put those nail on plastic glides to keep the wood from wicking up moisture. If it is going to be sitting in grass nothing will work great. I also seal the feet ends with several coats of paint before attaching the glides.

1. 
   KiddervilleAcres | May 11, 2009 01:18am | #5

   Thanks to both of you genntlemen for the responses - this is a real education for me, and others too I hope.

   The pieces will basically be in a porch environment - stored under cover in the winter.

   Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres

   A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!

3. 
   WillGeorge | May 13, 2009 03:55am | #6

   Bob

   Just me so take my free advice...

   Linseed oil! Wipe on and refresh when/as needed.. OK, so maybe it will never dry, so somebody can sit on it but... It works on outdoor wood!

   And I'd say Cabot makes good stuff! Especially their outdoor stains and stuff like that.

   And then again you could cover the exposed wood with copper sheeting!

   Whew, that was a mouthfull.... As in your words.. LOL..

   If you have not made it yet.. Take your pine and make the end grain slope (with drip caps) to aid in water run-off.. AND I would put some epoxy sealier on the end-grain or whatever. I have a very old outdoor table made of pine and cedar.. I covered the endgrain (top and bottom of the legs) with copper flashing. YOU KNOW, THAT CHEEP STUFF.. that comes in rolls at the local Big-Box..

   Guess what.. The cedar rotted out (in the soft wood places) before the pine legs!

   I used some of the Minwax? wood hardener on the cedar that rotted out.. Looks funny but still functional!

   
   

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   Edited 5/12/2009 9:04 pm by WillGeorge