ok so the “not so fast fix” of gluing on strips to a short board to make it longer so you can run it throught the thinkness planner is one way but not really a fast way to deal with this problem. I would save this idea for very short pieces that are not safe to go over the jointer. I have another technique for snipe and it may help some of you out there so here goes:
First off the waiting for the glue to dry so the short board is attached to the longer strips is not so great an idea (in the video they even make fun of this point) so what to do? I set up my jointer to an exact 1/32″ cut (in fact I leave it set this way nearly all the time). That is if I run a board that is already true to thickness, the jointer will remove exactly 1/32″ down the whole length and across the whole width. Now you can run any piece through the thickness planner you wish and leave it 1/32 overthickness, then take the final pass on the jointer to remove both the last 1/32″ and any snipe at the same time.
In my routine work I use this technique every day – not just for short wood, but all wood. Here is why, The average board goes through the jointer first (one face and one edge) then to the table saw to be cut to width plus 1/32″. Then to the thickness planner to be cut to final thickness plus 1/32″ then return to the jointer for a final pass on one edge (removes saw-marks and reduces the width to final dimension) and one pass on the thicknessed face to remove the last 1/32″ and any snipe. The final step is to cut the pieces to final lengths. I find with this technique I do not have to “rough cut” my wood more than one inch extra in length. If you figure the average snipe is about 2-inches and can occur at each end, and that a lot of furniture pieces are often less than 24 inches long, allowing enough wood to totally remove snipe from each end can add up to 15-20% of your wood going to the stove. (5 extra inches of board / 24-inch final pc x100% = 21% wasted. compare at 1-inch in 24 and you have 4% wasted) Put another way, if I told you I have a great lumber supplier that is 15 to 20% cheaper than yours, you would jump at the opportunity!
Robert.
Replies
Waste Factor
Hi Robert , Not sure I understand your routine exactly but we are lucky there are so many ways to do things .
My take on the waste factor is this : we pretty much need to figure the waste factor in from the specie and quantity used based on experience . When we buy better grades we pay more per foot but have less waste . But in general on many hardwoods we figure 20 - 35 % or higher on some species and grades .
On the best grades of Cherry , Red Oak , Maple , Walnut and Alder we can have as low as 10 - 15 % waste.
The ends of the boards are typically checked and a great deal of waste occurs here . I make those short legs and pieces from ends when it is practial and allow any snipe to ocur in an area that will be cut off .I think a fundemental problem is that most newer woodworkers seem to cut the pieces to size then realize perhaps surfacing , jointing or other operations are needed.
Using 4% as a waste factor would have put me out of business about 25 years ago but depending on the grade and the wood it can happen.
regards , dusty,boxmaker
Nothing wrong with your idea.
Nothing wrong with your idea because we each have our ways of doing things. I am not saying my way is better ....
I made a carrier sled' 48 inches long by about 13 inches wide which my thinkness planner is. Actually a bit narrower... by how much I forget... A 'Tad'? I use roller stands to support the in-feed and out-feed. It is made of two thicknesses of 3/4 inch MDF glued together with all edges sealed with shellac... OK, so some think MDF is junk.. I do not. I have a wide range of weather with alot of humidity. My shop has no heat or air conditioning.. I think my MDF carrier sled just goes with what mother nature provides every day. ... Because I have 'flat' angle iron welded frame epoxied into it's 'back side'.. Yes, I could have made a 'tortion box' but I thought over-kill...
I use carpet tape or hot glue to place the wood strip 'walls' to keep the 'stick' in place..
I admit that I DO NOT care about 0.001 inch surfaces.. All I know is it works for ME!
YES, the MDF surface gets a bit.. Can I say 'crappy' in here? over time...
I have used the same 'sled' for years and it still works.. Maybe, someday, I will have to make a new one.. But then again, I am not a production worker.. I take all the time I need..... AND then some.....
Snipe elimination
Robert,
I like your idea and the thought process behind it. I'll give it a try.
Frosty
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