Replies

1. 
   saschafer | Dec 18, 2007 12:28am | #1

   The best bet is to avoid using so much glue that it squeezes out into the panel groove....

   One kind of joints? Mortise and tenon? Cope and stick? With a mortise and tenon joint, you can alleviate some of the risk of glue squeeze out by cutting a chamfer at the mouth of the mortise, in effect carving out some "glue reservoir" space. That's a bit harder with a cope and stick joint, because the tenon is so short that you don't want to give up any glue surface area.

   I wax the tongue of the panel, everywhere except the central one inch or so, top and bottom. So far, that and being reasonably sparing with the glue has worked for me.

   -Steve

    

1. 
   Mark22 | Dec 18, 2007 12:55am | #2

   My doors are simple shaker stub tenons fit into full-length slots in the stiles. Glad you mention wax: I was thinking about waxing the panel tongues (in the corners) prior to assembly, which might prevent glue from adhering. BUT, I will need to eventually put a 2nd & 3rd coat of finish on the panels. So my concern there is that the wax will cause non-uniform absorption of the oil-urethane finish. Thoughts?Many many thanks, Steve!-Mark

1. 
   saschafer | Dec 18, 2007 01:17am | #3

   I always completely finish (finish finishing?) floating panels before assembly. The only thing I do after assembly is a final coat of paste wax. In fact, I finish as much as I can get away with before assembly.

   -Steve

    

2. 
   | Dec 18, 2007 02:09am | #4

   Hello Mark,

   There is wax product specifically developed for preventing glue squeeze out from adhering. The product is called Waxilit. I purchased my last can from Lee Valley. There is only one problem however, the product is adversely affected by freezing, therefor, Lee Valley will not ship it this time of the year. It's below zero here!

   Waxilit is a silicon free material that will clean off completely with denatured alcohol. It is also a great lubricant for use on machinery ie. planer beds. I have used it for years and have never had any problems finishing.

   Bob, Tupper Lake, NY

   
   

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   Edited 12/17/2007 6:11 pm ET by salamfam

3. 
   Quickstep | Dec 18, 2007 05:54am | #5

   I just got done making a bunch of framed panels. I did some experimenting and realized how little glue really remains in the joint after squeeze out. So, I just applied the glue more carefully and sparingly than usual. I stopped the glue about 3/16" short of where the joint would meet the part of the frame where it meets the panel. I still got some squeeze out, but it was just little beads, not the dripping mess I usually make. I also used space balls which lets (requires) you make the panels a fair bit undersize, further keeping them away from any squeeze out.

4. 
   UrbaneLegend | Dec 18, 2007 04:17pm | #6

   You shouldn't have squeeze-out.  Just brush a little glue in the middle of the face of the tenon - on both sides.  Just kiss each corner with glue, remember with a frame you are gluing up on four corners which is an inherently strong construction to begin with.  You just don't need to glop it on until it squeezes out everywhere. 

1. 
   Mark22 | Dec 18, 2007 05:03pm | #7

   Many thanks to all of you - after a little experimenting, I found that minimal glue, in addition to a touch of paste wax (after the 1st coat of oil) on the corners of each panel works really well. The second coat of oil actually disperses the wax and blends invisibly with the rest of the panel.Will definitely try Waxilit¯ sometime in the future too.Thanks again!Mark

5. 
   Streamline | Jun 18, 2015 01:58am | #8

   How about Johnson Paste Wax As A Waxilit Substitute?

   So it's clear that Waxilit works great for glue squeeze out solution. But how about Johnson Paste Wax as a substitute to Waxilit?  Has anyone tried this before?  It seems that just about every shop has Johnson Paste Wax that it would be more handy. I have been trying to find out if johnson paste wax contains silicon, but have hit deadends. 

   I did experiment by applying Johnson paste wax on cherry.  I then wiped it off with mineral spirits. I then applied a coat of polyeurathane on both the waxed and adjacent unwaxed areas.  I do not see a difference, which is good. But I am not sure what the long term implications are. Has anyone had long term experience with using Johnson paste wax as glue squeeze out control and successfully applied polyeurathane afterwards?