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I’ve made four drawers with red oak fronts and hard maple sides. I want to stain the fronts and not stain the hard maple tails. I should have stained them before I glued them up. If I hand painted the tails with sanding sealer would that keep the stain away from the fronts? Masking tape won’t keep it away, tried that. Maybe I’ll have to build four new drawers.
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Replies
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I do inlayed furniture, and I protect the inlays with dewaxed blond shellac, I can't see why this won't work to prevent the dovetails from getting stained.Sanding sealer would probably work also, it dries fast, and is a little thicker than shellac, making it easier to control, but I've never tried it.
*You might try a chemical treatment such as potassium dichromate (available from Garrett Wade. It will selectively darken certain species such as mahogany, and will not darken Holly or satinwood (eg when used as inlays) I don't know what it does to cherry or oak, but I would guess it would darken cherry more, maintaining the contrast between your pins and tails. It should be handled with gloves and a mask, since it is a potential carcinogen. Good luck.
*Hi Daryl:I think Jay is onto a good idea there, but I'd avoid potassium dichromate if I were you. I do, and I'm a chemist!The process of staining by ammonia fuming would be an ideal solution. The tannins in the oak will react and darken (although you WILL NOT SEE THIS UNTIL YOU APPLY A FINISH OVER THE WOOD) whereas the maple will not (far fewer tannins in oak).You'll need to dig around the archives or in finishing texts for fumed oak staining (although you basically just put your piece into some kind of plastic tent with a tray of conc. ammonia in the bottom, along with some scrap pieces of oak which you periodically pull out and rub a quick coat of shellac or varnish on to sample the color intensity), but I think this would be a slick trick to getting around your problem.Best of luck,-t
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