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I’m writing to both report on Russ Fairfield’s home-brew Oil/ Varnish finish and to thank him for the information. I recommend you try his formula! If this formula is common-knowledge, forgive me, I’m pretty new to WWing…
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I’m making a 8” high, table top plant stand from Purple Heart and quilted Maple. I wanted a water proof wipe-on finish with UV inhibitor to prevent the Purple Heart and aniline-dyed Maple from fading. None was available. I experimented with several finishes including a water base wiping poly from General which removed some of the purple color, left a blueish white tint, and “clouded” the appearance of the grain. I also tried some Minwax Poly Wipe (based on a Taunton Article where is recieved high ratings) that was OK but thin as water, minimal build-up with six coats, and pretty fast to dry.
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After an internet search for UV wipe on finishes, I found an article “Finish Secrets” on http://www.woodcentral.com/russ/finish7.shtml with a recipe for a home made wiping varnish:
Equal parts of:
- McCloskey’s “Man’O War” Gloss Spar Varnish (in the red can)
- 100% Tung Oil
- Pure Turpentine.
<!—->I had some of all three so I mixed a batch. I <!—->t was awesome beyond my expectations. Russ’s finish has a creamy body, wipes on like butter, and dries slowly- excess could be easily wiped off after about 30 minutes. It went on and wiped off very smooth and dried overnight (except today, after it has rained all night). The resulting finish builds up nicely and is just was beautiful after only 2 coats. I recommend you try it!
All the Best,
KB
Replies
KB,
There are as many oil/varnish formulas as woodworkers. Everyone's got his or her own favorite concoction. Certain combinations will look better with particular woods, as you have found. They're all easy to apply, but take several weeks of many applications to be done right and in the end, they all give you a rather thin (read easily-damaged) film of varnish on the wood. Their reputation for "in-the-wood" characteristics are seriously overblown as they actually penetrate very little. Use them on pieces not intended to take any abuse. Of course, they're "easy to repair."
There is no finish in existence which will alter the darkening of purpleheart. Some samples darken very rapidly, some remain bright for a remakedly long time, but whatever the wood is going to do, it will do as result of exposure to light and air. Keeping it out of direct sunlight also helps, of course.
You'll also find that your maple will yellow considerably over the next several months and years. It IS possible to prevent maple from yellowing by choice of finish. I like the water-borne varnishes or Cellulose Acetate Butyrate Acrilic (CAB Acrylic) lacquer for that purpose as I really dislike the way maple yellows under oil-based varnishes or nitro-cellulose lacquer.
BTW, purpleheart and maple look great under water-borne varnish. Their colors are brilliant.
Rich
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