Replies

1. 
   Deleted | Jun 22, 2019 03:14pm | #1

   “[Deleted]”

2. 
   [email protected] | Jun 22, 2019 04:10pm | #2

   I have used a back bevel on wood that has difficult grain with success. I do not know the angle, l just held the blade and honed. The back bevel has the same effect as increasing the frog angle for narly grain it works, but the higher angle blade is harder to push. Seems the bb+ frog angle= blade angle, maybe somebody with understanding will check in.

   A strop kept handy on your work bench is good way to keep sharp.

   The deleted post was me. Sorry about that, fingers lost contact with my brain.

3. 
   lat_axe | Jan 21, 2020 06:44am | #3

   Two back bevel uses for plane blades: change the cutting angle of a bevel-down plane; avoid having to polish the whole of a blade-back by using the "ruler-trick" to give the back of the blade a polished 1 degree bevel of about 0.5mm.

   The former also works for chisels. The latter doesn't.

   There's three good FWW article about back bevels here:

   https://www.finewoodworking.com/2012/11/26/sharpening-a-plane-iron-with-a-pitted-back

   https://www.finewoodworking.com/2011/02/10/try-back-beveling-your-plane-blade

   https://www.finewoodworking.com/2009/02/27/a-sharpening-strategy-beyond-a-sharp-edge

   Lataxe

4. 
   Rob_Sp | Jan 25, 2020 03:29pm | #4

   Putting a back bevel on a bevel down plane iron will change the cutting angle of the plane. This is useful for planing difficult woods. A typical smoothing plane is bedded at 45 degrees, so putting a back bevel of say 15 degrees will result in a cutting angle of 60 degrees. This will result in more of a scraping cut and be much less prone to tear out. It will however shorten the edge life rather than extend it.
   A better solution in my opinion is to use a bevel up plane.By simply changing the sharpening angle, you also change the cutting angle, without the need for a back bevel. For example, I use a block plane to trim figured drawer fronts, mostly cherry. The iron is bed at 12 degrees, I grind and hone a primary bevel of 30 degrees, then hone a secondary or micro bevel at 45 degrees. With an included angle of 57 degrees I can cut with abandon regarding grain direction or figure with little to no fear of tear out. With a bevel up plane you also have a more rigid assembly as the iron is bedded to the cast iron body, eliminating the need for a frog and "chipbreaker". This is good because more force is required due to the scraping cut, and chatter will be less likely.
   Rob
   '