I read someplace recently about gluing float glass to a piece of masonite in order to make it a little sturdier and less likely to break. My questions:
1. what kind of glue to use? I was thinking some leftover construction adhesive might work.
2. Should I glue the glass to the smooth finished side or the rough side?
Replies
Need a little more info. How thick? Is this for sharpening with the use of silicon carbide paper? I have 18" X 18" X 1/2" float glass for that purpose and no problems. I Expect 1/2 or 5/8 baltic birch ply using contact adhesive will stiffen up thinner plate.
Work Safe, Count to 10 when your done for the day !!
Bruce S.
It's 1/4" glass, with a fiberglass reinforcment in the middle. It's scrap from the glass used in school bus windows. Got a deal on it. I'm sure the masonite will be all I need structurally.
I would question the use of that glass as a bed for sharpening. Float glass is nearly dead flat. Before using your glass for a sharpening bed I would very carefully check it for flatness with a serious straight edge. IMHOWork Safe, Count to 10 when your done for the day !!
Bruce S.
I use a piece of 3/8" thick glass on a plywood board--I just clamp the board to the bench and the glass stays in the confines of the plywood via stops nailed down--very simple, and the glass is wide enough and long enough that I can get 6 grits of sandpaper on it at a time--really speeds up the sharpening process. I use the process taught by Mike Dunbar. Tom
If you use construction adhesive don't forget to wet the masonite and put the adhesive on the glass
BillA,
I just did this. I used clear silicon to mount the 1/4" glass on 5/16" masonite. I then used spray adhesive to mount the sandpaper on to the glass.
It works great.
Good luck
did you mount to the smooth side or the rough side?
Bill
I have a 10mm x 1m length of float glass contact glued to three 18mm thick sheets of MDF. This provides the best resistance to flex.
Regards from Perth
Derek
I used MDF too. The float glass is 11" x 4" x 1/4". The MDF overhangs it by a hair on 3 sides, and by about 2" on the 4th (4") side, with a hole in the middle to hang it on the wall. Epoxy bonds the glass to the board (use a credit card to spread it thin, it does not take much). Couple coats of polyurethane on the MDF.
Don't really get a few things with the SSharp technique
I vary, with my utility of the backer board, glass, paper and watrestone
My way
Flat backer board,
float glass on top,
sandpaper wet on both sides so sticks (reasonably solidly to glass) 400- grit through to 1200
6000 h2o stone
with a honing guide.(I know)
I find if I just use water to stick the sandpaper to the glass, when it gets flat or dirty I just grab another piece and throw it on
I rely on waterstones (King 800, 1200 and 8000) for all honing. My glass plate is 1m long and used for flattening plane soles. Then I will use Zirconion Oxide belts and, since these are stiff, it is easier to glue them down with a spray contact glue.
Regards from Perth
Derek
Don't know if u use a honing guide for the stones.
I heard that the bevel can be inaccurate if one is not used. Even though the hand feels steady and stable, there is a small potential for multiple facets forming on the surface being honed, minimising the uniformity of the surface.
Does a honing guide riding on the stone surafce lead to an uneven surface?
For bevel down plane blades I often freehand (since the bevel angle is not important). For all chisel blades I freehand a flat bevel. Generally I touch this up with a strop in between honings. For all bevel up plane blades, which use microbevels, I hone with the LV Honing Guide Mk II (since these angles must be exact).
All activity on a waterstone will cause wear. Flatten on 220 grit drywall screen.
Regards from Perth
Derek
Edited 9/4/2006 11:08 am ET by derekcohen
love the tips mate
regards from nrthern nsw
I made the mistake of not using a backer on my float glass and it sunk.
DJK
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