I am making a dining room table with a quarter-sawn white oak veneer top. What type of veneer backing (i.e.: paper, etc.) would be best for application?
Whatever help would be much appreciated.
Tenderfoot Bob
I am making a dining room table with a quarter-sawn white oak veneer top. What type of veneer backing (i.e.: paper, etc.) would be best for application?
Whatever help would be much appreciated.
Tenderfoot Bob
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Replies
What type of substrate are you veneering? And why are you looking for backing? A coat of whatever you're using for a finish on the outside will do nicely.
Mikaol
Thanks for your reply. Do you have a preference: using contact cement; or do you prefer adhesive-back veneer?
What substrate do you use: regular top grade plywood ; or Baltic birch plywood?
Tenderfoot Bob
I am not sure what substrate I should use: the best 3/4”Home Depot has (good on both sides); or 3/4” Baltic birch. What do you think?
I am thinking of adhesive-back veneer instead of contact cement because of possible bleed through in porous quarter-sawn white oak.
Thanks for your help,
Tenderfoot Bob
Home Depot plywood is crap. Baltic birch is far superior.
Most veneer has no backing. When you buy it from a large supplier you will get full size pieces almost always in sequence. This allows you to match the veneers anyway you choose. You will have to trim and fit your veneer and tape the seams. On occasion you do need to put an underlayer of veneer below the show veneer, but this is pretty rare.
If you are having trouble finding a veneer supplier, I purchase all of my veneer from certainly wood in NY. They have been mentioned in Finewoodworking more than once as a supplier so this is not a random plug for the company.
I've used them, and they are excellent.
Jake W
Thanks for your reference to Certainty Wood. They appear to have an impressive inventory!
Do you recommend adhesive-backed veneers. I am concerned with glue bleed-through with the quarter-sawn white oak I’ll be using.
Thanks for your help,
Tenderfoot Bob
I use a veneer press for everything and a couple of different types of adhesive. I would not use contact cement or similar. Bleed through happens and isn’t preventable. Glue choice is important in porous woods. Quartered white oak only has mild bleed through issues.
As for a substrate, Baltic birch if it needs to span a large area without support and MDF if I can support it well. MDF leaves the best surface.
I’ve never used paper backed, but I know you can use contact cement with them. Also, glue will not bleed through. This might be a consideration with oak.
+1 on Certainly Wood. They are also very helpful, at least Bob was for me.
Another vote for Certainly Wood. Top quality stuff and great service.
Bleed through is a real risk w/ oak veneer. I've found that I can usually come back the next day or so with a maroon scotchbrite pad and some distilled water to clean it out well enough for finishing.
I am going to assume you have multiple pieces of veneer to join together unless the supplier is going to sell you a sheet already joined.In that case they often paper back the joined pieces. The main problem with contact cement is you get ONE shot at putting the veneer on.I have used various titebond glues in my vacuum press and minimum bleed through came off easily.Make sure you have waxed paper or white melamine as the top piece.See some of my tables at carolynprue.com (My wife wont let me have my own web site)
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