Replies

1. 
   Michael | Jun 30, 2006 11:03pm | #1

   What brand of slides are you asking for help on?

   Blum works different than Accuride and others..

   ~Michael
1. 
   geoffleach | Jul 01, 2006 01:49am | #2

   Haven't made a choice yet. If one is better than the other, I can go either way.

2. 
   mudman | Jul 01, 2006 09:11pm | #3

   I dont usually use the standoffs (face frame adapters). There are steel adjustable ones that mount to the back of the cabinet but they are a little flimsy and harder to install there are plastic standoffs  that are solid and mount on the side, but only come in specific sizes so you have to design around them. So I choose to plane a piece of lumber the exact depth of the face frames overhang. that creates a flat mounting surface that is flush with the faceframe.

   Mike

   Pardon my spelling,

   Mike

   Make sure that your next project is beyond your skill and requires tools you don't have. You won't regret it.

1. 
   PADDYDAHAT | Jul 03, 2006 07:30am | #8

   Mike, In my new house in Tn. the late owner did some beautiful pine  kitchen  cabinets but the heavy use drawers fall down 3" as you pull them out. What brand and type slides would you suggest  as a reasonable replacement? I can figure out the sizes as I disassemble this mess. I expect them to last 15+ years with light daily use. Thanks,Pat.

1. 
   ring | Jul 03, 2006 02:53pm | #9

   Pat,  I've used Blum Tandem full-extension slides for some years now with no problems at all.  The regular slide is rated for 30 kg (66 lbs) and the heavy-duty is rated for 50 kg (110 lbs).  Recommended without reservations.

   DR

2. 
   notDusty | Jul 03, 2006 05:21pm | #10

   Pat ,       If your slides are side mounted now , imo retro fitting Blum or any other under mount may or may not work out easily . If side mounted several to use are Accuride or KV 8505 , they both are whats called a progressive type slide available in 150lb capacity full extension and are very forgiving and have a bit of slop built into them which in this case is a good thing .There is nothing wrong with the Tandem type but for this retro fit unless you plan to re build the drawer boxes they could present problems .

               As Ring suggested another reason to have a flush wall to the edge of the face or a build up is it makes for a very solid mounting especially for large drawers that may hold a lot of weight .

                           good     luck                dusty

3. 
   mudman | Jul 03, 2006 06:10pm | #11

   You will be limited to the clearance between the drawer and the frame, unless you build new drawers. I second the Blum tandem slides but it is very unlikely that they will retro fit if you have what I think you do. measure your drawers, the openings, the difference between them, the drawer side thickness and the depth of the drawer bottom recess, then go to Blums site and figure out what will work. All the conceled slides tuck under the drawer bottom and require a deeper than standard recess, they also reference off the inside of the drawer sides. So the fit is achived by making the inside width of the drawer the correct amount less than the inside of the frame opening.

   I have found the frequently the origional hardware fails not because it breaks, but because it was poorly installed. Such as staples and off center mounting. Sometimes just replacing the existing hardware with better quality versions of the same stuff and properly mounting it will last for the life of the cabinet. Don't get me wrong, upgrading to the Solo or the Tandem runners will look and feel great....but it will likely require new drawers or a serious amount of rigging.Pardon my spelling,

   Mike

   Make sure that your next project is beyond your skill and requires tools you don't have. You won't regret it.

1. 
   PADDYDAHAT | Jul 04, 2006 04:34am | #12

   Ring, Dusty and Mr. Mud, great info,. It looks like I need my old Navy blanket on the floor/cabinet ledge, a caliper and measure up. Then get some Blum's or KV's to fit. The late owner built beautiful case work with a black bumpy finish post formed top perfectly fitted and it looks like he did it last month not 1994, but I think he used Home Despot hardware and she put 60# of stuff in the drawers. Many thanks folks. Pat

3. 
   USANigel | Jul 01, 2006 09:52pm | #4

   Screw the front of the drawer slide to a block behind the face frame and the back to a spacer the same thickness. Make the drawers slightly short in length to allow for full extension.

4. 
   ring | Jul 02, 2006 08:42am | #5

   I really dislike spacers and clips and such.  I invariably make a second, inner wall to the cabinet which is flush with the inside of the face frames.  Makes for a cleaner look as well as straightforward mounting of slides, hinges, etc.  Also makes for a really sturdy cabinet.  The extra material cost is, for me, inconsequential.

   DR

1. 
   MBaybut | Jul 03, 2006 06:34am | #6

   Hi,
   Can't you just make your face frames flush with the inside edge of the cabinet?
   Mike

1. 
   ring | Jul 03, 2006 07:24am | #7

   That's exactly what I'm doing, but I don't want that fact to influence how the cabinet looks on the outside.  For instance, I quite often use a frame and panel construction for the outside wall, while the inner wall will be veneered ply.  It seems like more work at first glance, but the addition is really trivial, and it has any number of advantages, at least in my production shop.

   regards,

   DR