Band saw blade drift–two different concepts
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JNsLNJsMj0o&t=104s
It seems that there is controversy about the whole idea of blade drift. There is the thought that there really is very little drift in a new blade, one whose tooth set is not altered by resharpening.
The center of the blade, from sharp point of teeth to back, should be set on the center of the tire. After that, very small adjustment needs to be made by adjusting the table by loosening and tightening the bolts (six as shown). And this needs to be done once for the life of the saw.
I really don’t know who is correct. My books on the band saw suggest the same “free hand and then drawing a line” method as shown in the first video.
But the following video debunks it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vNdrkmx6ehI&t=37s
Please watch both videos and comment. Thanks
Replies
I watched both videos and they say the same thing. Michael Fortune says you can use the method in the first video around 2:30 in the second video. His argument is that adjusting only the fence leaves the miter slot not parallel to the blade. He adjust the fence angle by adjusting the entire top. To make a bandsaw cut parallel strips, the fence needs to be parallel to the blade. Many methods are available to achieve this alignment.
I have used both techniques. Initially, I only adjusted my fence and this worked well. I then adjusted my top for the same reason as Fortune, I needed my miterslot parallel to the blade.
The two videos differ quite a bit, if I understand correctly.
It seems to me that the second video emphasizes the centering of the blade on the tire, very fine adjustment needed by adjusting the table once for the life of the saw (not blade) by loosening and then re-tightening the six bolts.
The first video implies a significant drift that requires a fence that pivots to accommodate the drift. (By having to draw a line after the "free-hand follow the line" method.) It seems that the implication is that with each new blade new adjustment in pivoting of the fence needs to be made.
This has implication from the get-go in the design of the fence: to make it pivotable or not (or in a major way or only minor way).
I think you are missing the big picture on bandsaw set up. For the saw to cut parallel to the fence, two things need to happen. The wheels on the saw need to be coplaner and the fence needs to be perpendicular to the plane of the wheels.
If your wheels are coplaner, both methods will create a fence that is perpendicular to that plane. Your saw will then cut well. The blade does not affect these two adjustments. There is no reason to place you blade in any other position than centered on the wheel. If adjusting the fence still causes drift, than the wheels are likely not coplaner.
Finally, if the blade is dull, it will create unequal horizontal forces while in the wood and the blade will move and arc in the wood. NO AMOUNT OF TENSION OR ADJUSTMENT CAN FIX THIS. The blade needs to be replaced or sharpened.
You can choose either method to eliminate drift. Again, Michael Fortune mentions the fence angling method in the second video. Both work. Once adjusted, you will not need to make additional adjustments if the wheels are coplaner.
My advice is to set it up like he does in the second video. Nothing like decades of experience from a guy who made a career using this saw.
One of the best things I have done for all my bandsaw work has been to invest in a carbide tipped blade. They are not cheap but in the long run you come out ahead since they last much longer, do a smoother cut and that contributes to greater accuracy. Unless you are doing very tight radius cuts the 3/8 blade is very versatile. Doug Seagrim
The first video, adjust the fence, why not just adjust the fence? The second adjust the table so the miter slot and fence are aligned with the blade/cut.
A band saw is an often-abused tool, that can still be made to perform even with issues, not the sharpest blade, worn or miss-aligned guides and unsquared table.
Periodic adjusting of guides, table, fence, blade sharpness, number of teeth and dressing the back and corners of the blade make use easier and more precise.
You set the deepest part of the gullet in the center of the wheel. You will not have to deal with drift if the saw is properly adjusted. Here is IMHO the best video on setting a bandsaw.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU&t=1149s
Good Luck
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jTjwPo0VtaQ
I found this video, which is more explicit about what the author calls the blade drift myth.
But this author states that adjustment is per blade, not for the life of the saw as in the second video above. It also does not mention adjusting the "six bolts" mentioned in the second video.
Don’t expect too much from your bandsaw. Do all the adjustments, and most importantly buy a top quality blade. Most of the time use a fence with the table saw, and cut freehand on the band saw. If you want to use the bandsaw fence then you need to proceed slowly with a sharp, quality blade. There is a video on YouTube showing with fence resawing with the other adjustments way out, and producing a perfect result. Many bandsaws wheels I hear are deliberately not set coplanar by the manufacturer, so adjust at your peril.
I totally agree with robscaffe. Using Alex Snodgrass's setup method has eliminated drift and 90% of my bandsawadjustment issues. And that's without buying any of the Carter products.
I have also found that the Alex Snodgrass setup method works great for me. Aligning the deepest part of the gullet with the center of the wheel produces very consistent results with no blade drift. It's a very logical set up.
When I bought my Laguna last year for my birthday I set it up using their manual. You re-check when changing blades, but I've not had to reset anything over several blade changes. Whether you set the gullet or the middle of the blade over the center of the wheel, as long as you do it the same every time it will work the same every time (I center the blade on the wheel, it's less fussy).
As for coplanar setup, I don't know why any manufacturer would set up a non-coplanar saw on purpose. That said, the part that makes the most difference is where the blade comes over the top of the top wheel. As long as that is aligned the same with the blade and the blade is parallel to the fence, you'll get good resaw capabilities. I typically resaw to 1/16" with a 5/8" silica blade (from Laguna) and get beautiful, consistent results.
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled