Replies

1. 
   philip | Oct 05, 2006 11:29am | #1

   Drifting can be caused by incorrect tooth setting-even on a new blade, but the more likely cause is the set up of the machine: specifically the guides. These need to be guiding the blade i.e not allowing it to deflect left or right, or twist.They need to be equally set on top and bottom .
   A quick fix is to angle the fence so as to counteract the drift-not a great idea as it increases wear on guides and blade.
   Or you can mark you cut line and cut free hand, if it is just one or a few cuts.
   Try another blade to prove/disprove the question of tooth setting.
   You can also make a pivot block type of fence for ripping, which makes it easy to adjust for drift: this you clamp to the tableopposite the bladeand its bearing surface is rounded and about 1/2 inch thick, it allows you to change direction slightly but still maintains the ripping width.
   You can also clamp a tee piece to the fence itself.Philip Marcou

   
   

   ---

   Edited 10/5/2006 4:31 am by philip

1. 
   rog | Oct 05, 2006 03:18pm | #2

   Philip

   I went and looked at those guides and they are off a bit. This allows the blade to twist in only one direction and it looks like that would be the cause. I will readjust and try again. Perhaps a set of cool blocks would be good as the ones on now are the originals that came with the saw about 15 years ago.

   I have read a few articles lately where they say if they only had one saw it would be the bandsaw. I have a bandsaw, tablesaw and radial arm saw. The table saw is so noisy and makes so much dust in my small shop thatit is disgusting. If I can get this bandsaw properly tuned...it will become my tool of choice.

   Thanks for you assistance.

   Roger

1. 
   RickL | Oct 05, 2006 04:09pm | #3

   Get Duginske's book on bandsaws. Bandsaw blades tend to lead wood in different directions due mostly to the set of the teeth and some basis of the guides. The common solution is to have a single point fence top allow for the drift of the blade.

2. 
   PeteBradley | Oct 05, 2006 06:35pm | #5

   If the blocks are worn, you can just grind or file them flat. If the other ends are ok, you can just turn them around. Duginske's book lavishly extols the virties of cool blocks but doesn't mention he has a stake in their sale.Pete

1. 
   rog | Oct 05, 2006 08:18pm | #6

   Hi

   I brought the blocks as close as possible to the blade and it now tracks straight. The blocks however are getting pretty short.(15 years) I will get a set of coolblocks for it next time I am at Lee Valley.

   I really like the cut on the saw though. I am doing the dovetails in the tailvise for a new bench. 4 1/2 inches of solid maple and the bandsaw cuts it like butter.

   No dust very little noise and almost no waist.

   Roger

   Roger

2. 
   forestgirl | Oct 05, 2006 06:24pm | #4

   What brand blade did you buy?  Not all blades are created equal.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 
   

3. 
   sapwood | Oct 05, 2006 08:44pm | #7

   Bandsaw drift is a real consequence of some blades but you needn't have to accept it. For a past eight years or so I've been using either Timberwolf blades or Highland Hardware's Wood Slicer. Neither of these brands have ever given blade drift. True, when a blade gets very dull or possibly I run some crappy wood through it to appreciably dull one side more than the other, then there is some drift. But by that time the blade is living on borrowed time and I wouldn't expect to use it for resawing.

   I don't think that blade guides have as strong an affect on drift as unequal set or sharpness. Frankly, I don't pay a whole lot of attention to my guides and my 20 inch saw will resaw 1/16" veneer with one of the blades I mentioned.

1. 
   geppetto425 | Oct 05, 2006 08:55pm | #8

   Every woodworker should have this catalog/manual. Guaranteed to solve ANY problem you may be having with your bandsaw. You can order any part you need whether you are rebuilding an older unit or accessorizing a new one. Blades, guides, bearings, tires, anything!!!I've always ordered his catalogue by simply (gasp) picking up the phone and
   calling him. A few days later, there it is in my mailbox, my address
   having been hand-written on it. Refreshingly low-tech. No, he does not have a web site.Iturra Design
   Jacksonville 904-642-2802
   888-722-7078

2. 
   forestgirl | Oct 05, 2006 09:37pm | #9

   "...I've been using either Timberwolf blades...."  Bingo.  I wanted someone else to say it first (for a change, LOL!).  My position is, if I can get "no drift" with a Grizzly 1019Z, then drift is not a given with a bandsaw.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

1. 
   rog | Oct 05, 2006 10:58pm | #10

   Hi

   And where would I get one of these timberwolf blades? My Delta 16 inch is kind of a dinosaur and has 3 wheels with an 82 inch blade. I tend to pick up anything that says 82 inches. Most places don't carry that size.

   Roger

1. 
   forestgirl | Oct 06, 2006 12:14am | #11

   http://www.suffolkmachinery.com    I suggest calling them and go through what you need (what you'll be cutting).  They are very helpful!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

2. 
   forestgirl | Oct 06, 2006 02:22am | #12

   PS:  I was in a hurry when I wrote that last response.  Bandsaw blades can be made to any length if you contact the maker directly.  The 3 wheels might cause the Suffolk folks to suggest certain blades that would be less susceptible to flex stress, I'm guessing.  But they'll make whatever length you want.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

1. 
   rog | Oct 06, 2006 05:36pm | #14

   Forest Girl

   I will call them and order a 3/8 inch. It is very difficult to find 82 inchers. These bandsaw blades seem to be like disposable articles compared to the 10 inch table saw blades. How long do you think they should last when used about once a week.

   Off subject... Do you know what happened to a guy that went by the moniker "Sarge". I am just finishing up this Frank Klausz type bench and Sarge helped me a lot on it a couple of years ago. He was always on this board along with yourself.

   Roger

2. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | Oct 06, 2006 06:06pm | #15

   Rog, I do believe that the character you refer to as "SARGE" was captured by a roving band of desperado's and forced into slave labor! I think he was last seen in a wood sweat shop in the N. Georgia foot-hills building work-benches for a hot meal and cup of coffee a day! Then again, there is the rumor of evasion of IRS agents..  ha.. ha. ha..ha..ha..

   BTW.. the 82" blade is standard on a Jet and Delta 12" band-saw. You can pick up the Timber-wolves or http://www.highlandhardware has them available in carbon steel in all sizes. They carry the Sterling brand made by Diamond Cut. They even have their exclusive Wood-slicer available in 82" also if that saw is capable of re-saw tension and power.

   Good luck finding that SARGE...

   SARGE.. :>)

3. 
   rog | Oct 06, 2006 07:17pm | #17

   Hi Sarge

   You helped me a few years ago with the dog holes on this workbench I have been working on. I got waylayed by a contract and now am back finishing it up. I was using the bandsaw to cut the dovetails in 4 1/2 in maple for the tail vise.

   Tail vise installed this morning and now if I can find a strong man to help me flip the top over. I will finish it and Post pictures.

   Goog to know that you are still around.

   Roger

4. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | Oct 07, 2006 04:54am | #18

   Love to see your pics of the bench, Rog. You should find that it is a welcome stationary tool in the shop. Before you get a permanent one, it's kind of like living in an apartment and moving to a house you can call home.

   Regards...

   SARGE..

5. 
   rog | Oct 07, 2006 05:18am | #19

   Hi Sarge

   I just flipped it over with my son and have now started building the cover?? of the tail vise. It is the top inch of the tail vise that covers where the screw goes. I am putting it in cherry and the rest is in maple.

   Do you have any idea how to connect the top to the tail vise or the cherry to the maple. Am I supposed to glue it? Do I need access to it and perhaps put screws. I can't find this info anywhere.

   Roger

6. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | Oct 07, 2006 07:38am | #20

   Rog..

   The cherry can be glued directly to the maple.. Now, I'm going to take a stab at answering the other part. I wish I had a picture of what you refer too, but I believe you are referring to attaching the top cap to the face.

   Rout out your cavity for the upper guideplate in the top cap. Make sure top cap fits exact with the with the front face and all parts align and are square with the core. You can glue the top cap and front face on the open core in the bench if you are very careful. It will help align all components. Make the outer surfaces slightly proud, so you can take it down to table size with a hand plane. Easier than planing the table down to align with the vise if you get any variance.

   If you intend to ever take it off, you will need access to the guide-plate. Just drill holes for screws or lags to fit through and cover the holes with removable plugs.

   Have you got the work-bench book by Scott Landis? A detailed description of how can be found on pg. 76-79 complete with an exploded view of the individual components. This is hard to explain without physically pointing it out on the actual vise components.

   Regards...

   SARGE..

7. 
   rog | Oct 07, 2006 11:04pm | #21

   Thanks Sarge

   It is just the cherry top that I have to glue to the maple. All the assembly is completed. I will just glue it up then. If it ever has to come off I guess I will just unscrew the lagbolts in the front guide and the bench runner I think they call it.

   Thanks

   Roger

8. 
   forestgirl | Oct 06, 2006 06:17pm | #16

   Well, you found Sarge!  He's been back for a couple months now, IIRC.  We seem to be none the worse for wear, ROFL!!

   "How long do you think they should last when used about once a week."  No way to answer that question.  Depends on what kind of work you're doing with it and what type of wood you're working.  I don't use my bandsaw all that much either, but when I do I really appreciate having a great blade on it.

   Suffolk usually has a special running where you can get a free blade if you order 3:

   For a limited time, Purchase any three silicon steel bladesfrom 1/8" to 1" and receive a 1/4", 3/8" or 1/2" blade free. 

   <!----><!---->It's hardly worth it (IMHO) to order only one blade anyway.<!---->

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

   Edited 10/6/2006 7:49 pm by forestgirl

4. 
   rod | Oct 06, 2006 05:18am | #13

   Roger,

   I had that problem where I had to angle the fence in order to make a good cut. After reading the article by Michael Fortune in the Nov/Dec 2004 issue of FWW and following his suggestions, I no longer have the problem. I added two brushes to keep the wheels free of saw dust, an extra dust port at the bottom of the lower door, and used his suggestions for blades. If this article is not available to you, I could send you a copy.

   Rod