Hi,
Recently I was resawing some 7″ wide hard maple boards on my 18″ Delta band saw. As I’m new to resawing, I was wondering whether the speed rate I was able to obtain is consistent with others performing this similar operation? Should I be looking to tweak my setup for better performance?
- 18″ Delta 1.5 HP Band Saw. (This model has two pulleys to adjust the speed, I’m using the slower speed pulley.)
- 1.25 4 TPI Band Saw Blade (I can’t remember the brand).
- 5/4 x 7″ x 30″ Long hard maple board yields 2 pc ~5/8 x 7″ x 30″
- Speed rate = 10 minutes to resaw 30″ long board – not pushing the saw hard as if I do, the blade tends to slow down and stall.
Please note, I’m very pleased with the resawed boards as I am not getting wedges or cupped boards; just two nice even boards.
Basically, do others get similar speed rates or am I in need of a sharper blade? Other feedback is very much welcomed.
Thanks!
Replies
It sounds about right for 7" Maple using the slow speed pulley and only 1.5hp.
I was always taught to push the machine just until it stalls, then back off the pressure a little bit.
You can change to the faster pulley. Just make sure you feed everything faster so you don't overheat your blades. It can be tough to feed fast when you're doing detail work.
You will probably have equally good results and go a lot faster with less teeth. 1.3tpi is what I'm using on a Delta 18". Mines a 2 horse but I don't think that's a significant difference. I did'nt go out and time an exact sample at your dimensions but from experience I would say under a minute for that cut. My saw is set for the higher of the two speeds.
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The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools.
-- Herbert Spencer (1891)
Too slow and way too many teeth. We use a 1-1/4" 7/8" pitch blades on our bandmill and use them in the shop on our regular bandsaws. Each tooth is 7/8" long.
If you are satisfied the way your saw is performing, that's all that really matters. But 10 minutes to cut 30" of maple is a bit slow.
I completely agree with the recommendation for a coarser-toothed blade (although I'm not sure what the recommendation for 1.3 tpi means). 3 tpi is the maximum for this kind of cutting. You will find that you actually get smoother cuts. The blade must be able to get rid of the wooddust in the gullets. It can't do that as well with the 4 tpi blade as with 3 tpi and the blade and the wood heats up.
The fact that the saw tends to stall indicates both the need for lower tooth count and that the blade is not sharp.
I disagree that the saw should be pushed to the point that it stalls then feed pressure backed off. Properly set up, even for re-sawing, a fairly comfortable feed rate should result only in moderate reduction of the saw speed. It should sound like it's cutting easily.
It should never sound like it is laboring at all. If it does, that indicates dull teeth, inadequate tooth set, improperly tensioned blade (lower is better, despite constant advice to the contrary), blade not set to track properly (it should ride exactly on top of the crown of the upper wheel's tire and perfectly parallel to the resaw fence), blade is too wide (for a saw of less than 3 hp with your setup you may find that a 1/2" 3 tpi blade is much easier on the machine than the 3/4" blade.
Rich
Edited 11/27/2006 2:36 pm ET by Rich14
Hi Rich, and others...
Thanks for all the great input, there are some things here I will definitely try.
First, I think I will try another blade, I will switch from my 1 1/4" blade and try a 1/2" 3 TPI. Second, I will back off my tensioner too setting it for the new 1/2" blade. Right now it is set at the 1 1/4" blade setting on the tools indicator. I'm inclined to think that my setup is OK, as I'm very pleased with the output of the resawed boards - when I'm done, I get consistent thickness anywhere on the boards with my calipers.
It definitely sounds like I can get better performance from my saw. As you probably noted, I work by myself and haven't had a different band saw to compare my results too so I really didn't know what to expect. The good news is I can get good results now and have a lot of room for improvement, the bad news is it just takes me longer (for now.)
Thanks again for the advise and I will be sure to try a different blade.
-David
Still too fine. We use Monksforsagar blades on our bandsaws, 1-1/4 with 7/8" pitch will run about $20 from http://www.cookssaw.com and they can even be reset and resharpened. Wider blades don't have the steering issue of smaller blades where you have to adjust the fence to allow for the direction the cut deflects to.
RickL,
You make a good point. I have read that using a wider blade is more appropriate for resawing as you don't get the drift issues associated with narrower blades. I think for the price, I will also order one of the blades you mentioned 1 1/4" 7/8" pitch blades. As I do a lot of general band sawing, even if the 1/2" blade does work so well, it won't be wasted money.
The only issue for me at this point is that I know I can get great results with my setup now, except for speed. If the 1 1/4" blade works as well as you mention, I'm sure I will be delighted.
Thanks again!
Blade drift is primarily the result of improper setup, especially not having the blade at the right tension and not having it correctly at the top of the tire's crown and parallel to the resaw fence.
Wide blades to compensate for improper tuning put excess demands on the power needed.
Rich
Blade set is a major factor of blade drift. Less teeth requires less power as on a rip blade for a table saw. I've been in the wood trades for over 30 years. I see you are in the medical field.
Edited 11/27/2006 4:27 pm ET by RickL
Edited 11/27/2006 4:36 pm ET by RickL
Rick,
I completely agree with the recommendation for fewer teeth. That's not the issue.
"I see you are in the medical field"
Yes? Is my day job an issue?
Rich
Edited 11/27/2006 4:35 pm ET by Rich14
1.3 tpi means 1.3 teeth per inch.------------------------------------
The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools. -- Herbert Spencer (1891)
Ok. Thought so, just wasn't sure.
10 mins for 30" sounds pretty slow. I'm probably a bit spoiled by my Lenox Tri-Master carbide blade, but I would estimate a board that size would probably take me 2 mins max. Even on my previous 14" BS with HH Woodslicer blade, I would guess maybe about 4 mins or so. Less teeth would help clear the dust out of the kerf and speed things up a bit. If you plan on doing much resawing and can swing it, a carbide blade is definitely worthwhile.
If you build it he will come.
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