I am on the verge of purchasing a new bandsaw. Saving my pennies to get the best I can afford, of course. The one thing I know it will come with is a learning curve. Here are my first three questions:
1.How do you properly tension the blade, i.e. when is enough enough? Does the tension need to be taken off each time I leave the saw?
2.I see a lot of aftermarket guide blocks/rollers. Are the ones that come with a saw crappy and in need of immediate replacement?
3. Could I have recommendations for a book on band saw use?
Thanks
Replies
Jed,
Buy the Band Saw Handbook by Mark Duginske. He covers all the bases: theory, technique, trouble shooting, blades, guides....
Some saws come with excellent guides, some, like my Jet, come with rather poor guides. I use Cool Block and like them very well.
Jeff
Fine Woodworking had an article about bandsaw guides about 2 years ago. (April 2001) I found the article helpful.
I agree about Mark Duksinke's book, very good source.
Jed,
Blade tension depends on the particular blade. Top quality bi-metal blades, such as the AS-S blades from Timber Wolf (http://www.suffolkmachinery.com), are run at low tension, while lesser quality HSS blades require higher tension. Tension gauges are available, but FWW had an article with a homemade version about a year ago that would save you considerable bucks.
I have the cool blocks on el cheapo 14-inch Delta knock-off and they work great.
Bert
The whole idea about using bi-metal BS blades is to have the band made of softer metal so it can do the bend quickly without breaking and the hardened teeth for the cuttin'.
Once somebody figures out how to stick a fat carbide tip on a band & the band holds up till the blade dulls out.
It's bi-metal for me.
You can run a bi-metal blade much faster than a reg. one 'cause it can take the heat.
Check out Lennox blades at carbide.com or anywhere... Iturra has a nice selection.The proof is in the puddin'
I just read the Bandsaw Book by Lonnie Bird. I found it helpful.
Tris
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