Replies

1. 
   john_c2 | Aug 16, 2021 01:52am | #1

   Link belt. They'll work fine. But there could be a lot of things causing issues, including bearings and the wheels themselves. You might have bitten off a large and expensive project.

2. 
   pantalones868 | Aug 16, 2021 02:54am | #2

   Wobble where? The blade wobbling when running? The lower bandsaw wheel wobbling with no blade on the saw? The drive pulleys? What exactly is wobbling? The link belt will work fine also factory specified belts will also work and there's no guessing the length,they'll fit. A total rehab like your talking about can be a nice project if you like that sort of thing but the cost of replacement parts of good quality may shock you. The accumulated cost of parts can easy surpass the cost of a new saw.. You can buy factory replacement bearings for example or you can purchase bearings that are much much better than Grizzley supplied or you can find something cheap somewhere on the internet and cross your fingers. Personally I would get it running. Replace what absolutely needs to be replaced now and start using it. When something needs fixed fix that. Buy the way, unless you can see obvious wear on those belts I would bet that's not your problem.

3. 
   rob_ss | Aug 16, 2021 03:39am | #3

   I'm with @pantalones868 here.
   Lots of options.

   Vibration can have many causes.

   Try taking off the blade and running the saw. Does the saw rattle or vibrate? If not then the motor and lower wheel are fine. If yes, then fix and move on. Does the top wheel rattle? No? Then it's the tyres or the blade. Are the tyres clean and in good condition? Try with a brand new blade. Tune it carefully and if still rattling you may still have bad bearings.

   Can't help in the USA but local to me there is a shop where I just take all my old bearings and belts for cars and tools and they sell me top quality Japanese made bearings and belts to replace them. Most of these tools are 'made to a price point' and that can include dirt cheap bearings. Replacing them is never a bad idea.

   Generally there is a degree of adjustment possible for tension on the drive belt - is that tight? Does it vibrate without the belt on (indicating motor issues)

   Sorry - bit of a 'stream of consciousness' - hope it helps

4. 
   _mj_ | Aug 16, 2021 06:13am | #4

   I have had good results with link belts on "hanger" motors like contractor saws but I have never tried really tensioning one. If you can find the belt that was meant for the saw you'll have a better baseline for the rebuild.

   Anybody ever really pull on a link belt?

5. 
   Jkatzowitz | Aug 16, 2021 08:02am | #5

   I picked up a used Jet 14" bandsaw years ago that had a vibration issue. I replaced the belt with a link belt and it helped. Then I replaced both pulleys with higher end "machined" pulleys and the vibration disappeared. Hopefully your problem will be that simple to solve.

   Standard rubber belts have a "memory" so if the machine sits idle for long periods the belt can exhibit a vibration. Link belts inherently don't have a memory.

   Good luck,

6. 
   bradleyheathhays | Aug 18, 2021 03:40pm | #6

   Yes what do they call this...baptism by fire? Guess I've jumped in on this one now hopefully I can swim.

   Thanks for all the good info. This gives me a good education on what all I should be looking out for. As long as the actual wheels (not tires) are still round (which I've heard they can go out of round if sitting under tension for a long time) I should be ok. Crossing my fingers anyway.

   All guide bearings have been replaced and the replacement belt(s) get here today so I'll get those on and go from there.

1. 
   rob_ss | Aug 18, 2021 10:34pm | #7

   Do let us know if you solve the problem...

7. 
   bradleyheathhays | Aug 28, 2021 06:39pm | #8

   Well after some trial and error I found a socket the right size for the bottom blade wheel. Turned out to be 1" and just barely fit in the recess. After pressing in a new bearing I'd say 90% of the wobble that was left after the belt change has disappeared, and that'll be good enough for what I'm doing now. Luckily I've got a smaller 12" Craftsman band saw that I got used a year ago and has been smooth sailing from the get go. It's a little difficult to fight the perfectionist in me to make the 16" dead accurate again but I'll just have to let it be and go forward. If I need anything this size and more steady I'll just spend the money and buy something more reliable.