Replies

1. 
   Samson | Jan 18, 2006 01:24am | #1

   I have the Powermatic 14" which is close relative of the Jet (an extra 1/2 HP and some bells and whistles).  I have the riser block and love it.  I see no down sides at all.  I guess the longer blades might cost a tiny bit more?  Dunno, the ability to cut big chunck and resaw wide boards, is more than worth it.  Best $75 I ever spent.

2. 
   douglas2cats | Jan 18, 2006 02:01am | #2

   The only CON I can think of is you'll have to buy all new blades.

   Before I got my Minimax MM16 I had a Jet 14" w/ riser block. I wasn't superhappy with resawing consistency on wider stock, but for cutting bowl blanks I would think it would work very well.

   If you build it he will come.

3. 
   forestgirl | Jan 18, 2006 02:28am | #3

   I see no downside at all.  I waited almost 2 years before finally putting one on my Grizzly 1019Z, was very happy when the changeover was made.  No problems emerged (tracking, cutting straight) and it was great not running into the "just 1/2" too high" problem.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
   Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

4. 
   highfigh | Jan 18, 2006 03:38am | #4

   I bought the riser with my Grizzly 0555 and don't plan on taking it off any time soon. On mine, there are absolutely no cons at all. I haven't resawn anything to its full capacity but on a 6" piece of white oak, I can consistently resaw to 1/16" thick with no drift.

   "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
5. 
   ChrisB | Jan 18, 2006 05:38am | #5

   Biggest mistake I ever made (OK, ONE of the biggest mistakes) was not buying the riser block right off the bat when I purchased my 14" Delta a dozen years ago.

   Not only did I miss out on big savings in resawing mill run beams into boards, but I had to trash a half dozen blades and replace them.

   Get that riser block ASAP! You'll not regret it.

   Chris

6. 
   JeffHeath | Jan 18, 2006 06:31pm | #6

   Tony

   OK.  I'm not trying to start something here, but if you pay attention to the advice you've gotten so far here, the fine folks pretty much told you that they haven't used the capacity of the riser block for resawing.  No offense is intended to any of my friends here!!

   If you're only cutting bowl blanks, a riser block is fine, because the precision of cut for a bowl blank is not that critical, as you will true it up on the lathe anyway.  If it's pitched an 1/8" either way, no big deal. 

   However, if you plan to resaw full height with a riser block, the possible cons ( which I ran into with my old bandsaw) are lack of rigidity.  The single most important construction quality of a good bandsaw, when it comes to resawing, is rigidity.  Many 14" and smaller bandsaws are not contructed of very heavy duty steel, and deflect when the blade is tensioned.  The higher you raise it with a riser block, the more deflection of the height of the cut.  

   I resaw alot.  I cut my own veneer to 3/32" to 1/8" thicknesses all the time.  On my old bandsaw, which was a 14" with a riser block, I couldn't do this, no matter how much time I spent tuning the saw.  The deflection was just too much, and I couldn't get a consistent cut over the height of the resaw. 

   A riser block may or may not help you, depending on what you wish to accomplish.

   Jeff

1. 
   GHR | Jan 19, 2006 02:20am | #7

   I don't cut veneer but ...I resaw 8/4 x 12" using a Delta 1.5hp with a 6" riser. It seems to work well enough. I get 2 pieces that finish up about 15/16".

1. 
   JeffHeath | Jan 19, 2006 05:13am | #10

   A riser block system will work fine for that application.  As I stated in my post, I was referring to veneer work only.  If you're not veneer sawing, then I agree the riser system is fine.  You'll be jointing and planing both boards after re-sawing, and have enough material left over to safely remove.  With 3/32" veneer, there's nothing left to take off.

   Jeff

2. 
   Buster2000 | Jan 19, 2006 02:51am | #8

   Jeff,

   Are you trying to start something here?  Just kiddin'...  It's a good post.However, if you plan to resaw full height with a riser block...

   Did the deflection occur when you were not resawing to full height?

   The reason I ask is that when I purchased my bandsaw I was given a riser kit free with it (wood show special).  I have not installed it yet, but am thinking about doing it when I complete my current project.

   Most of my stock has been in that 5"-8" range so I doubt I'll be resawing to the full capacity.  In the near future I doubt I'll be resawing thin veneer (famous last words), but of course I don't want to limit myself down the road.

   What do you think?

   Buster

1. 
   JeffHeath | Jan 19, 2006 04:35am | #9

   Buster,   I ran into trouble trying to resaw wide boards near the maximum height.  If you already have the riser block, and if you have the correct length blade, go for it.  It'll only cost you time, and you'll be able to find out if your saw will perform or not without spending extra $$$.  For someone wanting to purchase the stuff to increase resawing height, I'd suggest upgrading to a bigger, heavier-framed saw.

   Jeff

1. 
   Buster2000 | Jan 20, 2006 02:16am | #12

   Thanks for the reply I appreciate it.

7. 
   DennisS | Jan 19, 2006 06:53am | #11

   Hi Tony -

   I have the small 14" Delta, 3/4hp variety, with a riser block. I foolishly assumed that since they sell the riser block for the saw, it oughta resaw stuff 10-12" wide. Not really the case unless you can eat lunch while you're guiding material through the saw (hehe).

   I'm currently running a Timber Wolf 3/4" 3tpi hook blade on my saw and recently sawed some veneer (+- 1/8" thick) with reasonable results. It takes a long time, however on a saw with this little HP. I realize you said you hadn't planned on doing any veneer sawing but having used this saw to cut turning blanks from green wood, I doubt that it would perform all that much better with heavier, thicker stuff. Especially if it's green and wet. However the added hp of your saw motor may well make a big difference.

   The only down side of trying to cut bigger stuff on these small saws, as I see it, aside from my underpowered machine, is the smallish size of the table. I think one of my upcoming shop enhancement projects will be to build a bigger table for the thing.

1. 
   highfigh | Jan 20, 2006 06:22pm | #14

   I think I would use a wider kerf blade for sawing green stock, possibly even carbide, especially if the wood is maple or cherry. I bought the riser block, not for resawing 12" wide veneer, but because 6" of clearance is pretty limiting and the extra height makes the saw a lot more useful without spending a lot of money. Granted, 12" will add a lot of friction when resawing but mine went throught some of the white oak I bought from Jeff like it was butter.
   "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."

8. 
   Napie | Jan 20, 2006 06:09pm | #13

   A riser block is great investment.  Also get the Itura Design catalog (1-888-722-7078 for a free catalog).  Everything you ever wanted to know about how to get the most out of a 14" cast iron bandsaw.  My old Delta, (Carter guides, 2 hp motor, new spring, etc.), cuts bowl blanks and resaws like a champ.  After tuning it up, I put off all thoughts of buying one of the larger European welded frame saws.