Replies

1. 
   RSRose | Aug 28, 2002 06:55pm | #1

   Campbelldust,

   Don't worry about having 3 shim washers behind the wheel, as long as the two wheels are co-planar. The washers are backed up by the wheel mount and I assume that the threads on the end of the axle are just about fully engaged by the mounting nut when it's tight.

   Rich

1. 
   ccampbell | Aug 28, 2002 07:00pm | #2

   Thanks, Rich.  Yes, the nut JUST gets all the threads in contact.  it certainly couldn't handle four washers.  When I place a straight edge across the wheels now, they are almost perfectly in line.

2. 
   JeffKurtz | Aug 28, 2002 07:02pm | #3

   Don't know why they told you to add washers.  Are the wheels co-planer with one another?  If not, you'll never get the blade to track.  Check with a long level or straight edge.  They should be aligned one directly over the other (thus the washers) and at the same angle (use the tracking adjustment for this.)  It is possible that the machining on the riser block is not correct, especially if the machine was accurate before you added the block.

    Jeff

1. 
   ccampbell | Aug 28, 2002 07:11pm | #4

   Jeff,

   The wheels are coplaner now that there are three washers behind the upper wheel.  I suspected the riser block first and had them send me a new one.  Changing it out had no effect.  I didn't notice the problem with the blade rubbing until I installed the 3/4" blade.  The original, smaller diameter 1/4" blade that came with the saw was narrow enough that it wasn't an issue.

1. 
   bsutton12 | Aug 28, 2002 07:22pm | #5

   I have had Delta reps tell me on a couple of occasions not to use a 3/4 in. blade on the 14 in. saw.  It puts too much demand on the machine.  I have found that a good 1/2 in. blade does a good job of resawing even thick stock.

2. 
   JeffKurtz | Aug 28, 2002 07:24pm | #6

   Almost co-planer isn't co-planer.  If this were an old machine you were rebuilding, I'd say its good enough.  But this puppy is new - send it back!!!  Could be a bad bearing or something else that will only get worse in time.

   Jeff

   P.S. It's pretty difficult to run a 3/4 inch blade on a 14 inch saw.  Mark Duginske says to use a 1/2" blade for resawing on these smaller machines.

3. 
   DennisS | Aug 28, 2002 08:49pm | #7

   I just went through the same process with mine, ... exactly. Let me ask what may sound like a condescending question but - do you have the riser block installed correctly? I would have sworn that there was only one way it would go on. I noticed after assembly that the edges of the block were rather poorly aligned with the top & bottom castings but was sure it was the only way it would fit.

   After adding shims behind the top wheel I still couldn't eliminate the rubbing of the blade on the bottom inside of the blade guard so took the whole thing apart and ... Duhhnnn.... I had the riser block turned 180 degrees. It won't go on upside down but it will go on rotated out of whack.

   That corrected, I still had to add two shim washers (I used two to get the wheels planar - thanks to Rich for theadvice and guidance). There appears to be no problem adding shim washers - just make sure you have a "full nut" on the shaft when you replace the wheel.

   Dennis in Bellevue WA

   [email protected]

1. 
   ccampbell | Aug 29, 2002 12:57am | #8

   Thanks, Dennis.  I had Delta send me a new riser block kit to make sure that it wasn't a machining problem.  The fit was identical with the new one.  I don't know if I specifically turned it or not - perhaps not.  I just followed the picture in the installation instructions.  There is a small notch at the top of the block that they show in the up position on the bolt access side.  That's the way I have it installed.  Is that the same with yours?

1. 
   DennisS | Aug 29, 2002 01:21am | #9

   > ....There is a small notch at the top of the block that they show in the up position on the bolt access side.  That's the way I have it installed.  Is that the same with yours?

   To be honest, I didn't even look. I'm one of those "Read the instructions as a last resort" kinda people. I looked at the picture, realised that the pins in the block determined which side was up or down but paid no heed to front or back. (g)

   Glad you got yours tuned. They're sweet when they're running right. Like you, I didn't have a problem until I put a 3/4" blade on. Sure didn't like the sound of metal rubbing metal!

   Dennis in Bellevue WA

   [email protected]

1. 
   corners | Aug 29, 2002 08:11am | #10

   I recently bought a new Delta 14 inch and after setting it up and verifying the wheels were coplanar I found when I tensioned the blade the wheels rubbed the guard. On inspection it became clear that the top blade guard (backside) was bent. I had bought mine off the showroom floor and it was probably bent in assembly and handling before display. I removed the guard, set it on the floor on a couple of suitable wood blocks and jumped on it a couple of times - fits perfectly now - no rubbing at all. I am enjoying this machine very much! With the blades in good alignment the cut is straight enough not to worry about lead angle. I'm cutting 1/16th inch oak veneer with a 1/2 inch blade.

4. 
   gillesconsta | Aug 29, 2002 06:02pm | #11

   Hi there!

   I have just acquired a 14-in General International bandsaw and here is how I solved your's/mine type of problem after installing the riser block.

   I unscrewed sligthly the long bolt, enough to be able to tap the riser block, using a hammer and a piece of hardwood, so that I could move the block and/or the top part of the saw sideways.

    There is very little play available but the 1/16in (+ or -) was enough in my case to achieve proper alignment. To keep track of the movement, I drew a pencil mark before, in order to detect the change of position of the block. I first tried one direction, tested it, and found out that it was worst. I then tapped in the opposite direction and  Eureka!...it was home. I did not use any shim on the wheels.

   My concern now is how to adapt my 4-in dust collector to the bandsaw, and as you probably know, most of the dust collecting shrouds on these bandsaws are more symbolic than anything else: they pick up nothing and it looks like us, the users, have to find out how to do it. The much more expensive European versions likely have suitable systems, but there is a limit to what a home woodworker should spend for his hobby.

    Hope this will help you...and I will follow-up later on your efforts.

1. 
   ccampbell | Aug 29, 2002 06:28pm | #12

   Thanks, Red.  On the Delta there are machined pins top and bottom that hold the riser in position.  There is no play at all with the pins in place.  My only alternative is to rotate the block, which I might try, or removing a pin, which makes me a little nervous since the assembly is so heavy.

1. 
   DennisS | Aug 29, 2002 06:51pm | #13

   > ...My only alternative is to rotate the block, which I might try, or removing a pin,

   I *wouldn't* remove any pins if it were my machine. They're there for a reason - presumably to align the top & bottom castings and the riser block. As I stated earlier, in my myopic haste to get the saw assembled I had the block rotated 180. It's pretty obvious once I looked at it - the block edges were at least 1/4" offset from the main castings. Shimming the top wheel is, in my otherwise unqualified opinion, the proper procedure.

   Dennis in Bellevue WA

   [email protected]

2. 
   gillesconsta | Aug 30, 2002 03:32am | #14

   Ok for the Delta specs: I have positioning pins also for the block but they do not fit that tight and as I said, there is VERY little movement but that was all I needed. Are you sure you have NO movement at ALL?...I mean something like 1/32 or 3/64th...

   I have just tried resawing a log today for the fist time and was very pleased with the performance (and mine hi hiii) but deceived with the dust collection or I should rather say ''dust spraying''. It comes out of every little crack imaginable, and my next approach is finding suitable self adhesive foam or the like, to plug it up. I intend to try hooking up my 4-in flex pipe directly...every where I suppose???...I do not know yet. 

   But it can be done with the patience a good woodworker should have...so let us keep it up!

   Cheers and let me hear from it!

1. 
   TomFerreira | Aug 30, 2002 04:10am | #16

   Red,

   Take a look at the link below. Amazon sells a dust chute for 14" saws that looks pretty good.

   TDF

   http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00004Z048/ref%3Dnosim/epowertools-20/102-5404018-4605753

1. 
   ccampbell | Nov 01, 2002 07:02pm | #17

   Thought I'd give you guys an update on this issue I was having with my Delta bandsaw.  I called Delta and asked them to look into this further.  I was contacted by two different people from their manufacturing plant.  They asked me several questions about the problem and then tested my setup at their location.  Both of them told me that they intentionally manufacture the bandsaws so the wheels are NOT coplanar.  One of them said he keeps hearing this stuff about the necessity for the wheels to be coplanar and doesn't know where it's coming from.  I was told that they normally add one or sometimes two washers behind the upper wheel during assembly, but that the three I had to add was unusual.  However, as long as I had room to thread the nut, I was okay.  I was told they were going to go ahead and set up a machine just the way I had mine and make sure there were no design problems with the riser kit (they aren't made in the same plant) but that I was okay with three washers behind the wheel.

2. 
   DennisS | Nov 02, 2002 02:27am | #18

   Campbelldust -

   I don't know if it was an anomoly with my saw or not, but when I put a 3/4" blade (max size for the saw) on to do some wide slicing, it made a terrible racket. I finely traced down the noise to the back of the blade rubbing on the inside of the back blade guard. I also noticed that to get my blade to track in the center of the top wheel, the teeth were almost haning over the edge of the bottom wheel. That's when I started doing some checking.

   I found I had to shim the top wheel out with two shim washers (little more than 1/16") to get the faces of the wheels coplaner. Once this was accomplished, the blade didn't rub and it tracked in the center of both top and bottom wheels.

   Since making these adjustments and following some of the other great advice with respect to blade tensioning and such that's been posted in variuos topics here, my saw is performing a *lot* better than it did. Why the Delta people would suggest that having the wheels out of kilter is rather a mystery to me.

   ...........

   Dennis in Bellevue WA

   [email protected]

3. 
   Marcello | Nov 02, 2002 04:29am | #19

   I don't know the answer to that either.  Seems like if someone is trying to sell you a product, it should be ready for flawless operation from the begining.  Why would someone want to spend money in something we have to fix?  I know we all do it to some extent, but it should be minimized -- to keep us as clients anyways.

4. 
   nicobie | Nov 03, 2002 02:31am | #20

   I do love my Minimax 16".

   3.6 hp

   13" resaw

   Upper and lower blade guides are way better. I looked forever for the BEST bandsaw.

   Very happy.The proof is in the puddin'

3. 
   gillesconsta | Aug 30, 2002 03:39am | #15

   And as far as the precision of the castings, although I have not seen those of the Delta, I have ignored this aspect. I do not believe that they are that accurate, and the pins are there for positioning purposes; the retaining power is effected by the replacement longer bolt, holding everything.