Replies

1. 
   BruceS | Feb 13, 2007 01:07am | #1

   I have a 14" Jet w/riser block and use a 1/2" X 3TPI Hook and am well satisfied.   Some may recommend the use of a skip tooth but I have read that some Mfgr's would do away with the skip tooth design if they didn't have so many loyal skip tooth users.  Their tests show that the hook is far superior and I agree as I have used both styles.  I think I'll get blasted about this.

   Work Safe,  Count to 10 when your done for the day !!

   Bruce S. 

    

2. 
   beachfarm | Feb 13, 2007 01:50am | #2

   I spent part of my afternoon resawing Cherry for a bent lamination (3/32 to yield 1/16) and was more than happy to be using a 1/2" 3TPI hook. New blade. Cuts like a hot knife.

1. 
   brad805 | Feb 13, 2007 03:59am | #3

   thanks.  thats what I will go with.

1. 
   fussy | Feb 13, 2007 07:57am | #5

   Brad,

   Whether you're going with a hook or a skip, look at BC Saw (http://www.bcsaw.com).  Their 93 1/2" blade is about $8.50 in multiples and ranked only a little below the wood slicer at a much lower price.  I use them all the time (I still use a skip, but am not above trying a hook next time) and have resawed the daylights out of cherry.  Very good choice.  Stay safe and have fun.

   SteveThere are two secrets to keeping one's wife happy.

   1.  Let her think she's having her own way.

   2.  Let her have her own way. President  Lyndon Baines Johnson

1. 
   brad805 | Feb 13, 2007 08:30am | #6

   Great website.  I also need shaper bits too.  Even better, a canadian company.  Allblades in Edmonton is who i ordered from today.

   Thanks.

3. 
   woodhacker | Feb 13, 2007 05:55am | #4

   The "Wood Slicer" from Highland Hardware (Highlandwoodworking.com) is designed for just this application and is one that I'd highly recommend. It's got a variable tooth spacing which makes it a lot quieter than conventional blades, gives a very smooth cut,  and being thinner than a conventional blade removes less wood and therefore requires less power. FWW tested blades for resawing a while back and rated this blade very highly.

4. 
   JimV | Feb 13, 2007 05:10pm | #7

   Brad,

   I've tried the woodslicer from Highland Hardware, the timberwolf from Suffolk, and a number of others. Now I buy $12 1/2" 4 TPI blades from Hartville Tool and find that they work as well as the expensive blades. What it comes down to is have your BS setup properly and having a sharp blade on the saw.

   Jim

   "There are two spiritual dangers in not owning a farm. One is the danger of supposing that breakfast comes from the grocery, and the other is that heat comes from the furnace." - Aldo Leopold
1. 
   EBrandt | Feb 13, 2007 07:46pm | #8

   Following this thread with great interest... a related question...one that has been of interest to me for some time...

   Given each of your favorite blades mentioned above, in new/sharp condition, with the saw properly tuned, what is the expectation for surface smoothness on the sheets of veneer that you saw? As good as a ripped edge off the table saw? As good as a face jointed edge off the jointer?

   Is it normal to still get some ridges on the sawn face? If so, how do you clean them up prior to using the veneer? ROS? drum or widebelt would be great, but not everyone has one...

   Thanks in advance,

   Eric.

1. 
   JimV | Feb 13, 2007 10:04pm | #9

   The cut surface is usually pretty rough. I usually follow this pattern when I cut veneer: face-joint, edge-joint and thickness plane the raw stock, cut off a slice, lightly plane the stock again, repeat until you run out of wood. As far as finishing the veneer I just cut, I usually cut in 1/8" slices and then pass them through my drum sander for a finished thickness of 1/16" - 3/32".I've also heard of people hand-planing to final thickness, but I'm not that good. I would be very hesitant to use a ROS to attempt to do this, as I believe it would be difficult to achieve an even thickness.Jim
   "There are two spiritual dangers in not owning a farm. One is the danger of supposing that breakfast comes from the grocery, and the other is that heat comes from the furnace." - Aldo Leopold

1. 
   EBrandt | Feb 14, 2007 04:15am | #10

   Thanks for the reply Jim...my curiosity is what to do at that last step if you don't have a drum sander...

   E.

2. 
   Walnutz | Feb 14, 2007 04:28am | #11

   Eric

   Regardless of the blade you choose, your  bandsaw setup will even more important.  A properly tuned bandsaw will yield you a very nice surface, but nothing that you will be able to use "as-is" for furniture.  If you don't have a wide belt, or a drum sander, than you have to use what you have.  It's not difficult to level the cut side of veneer once it's applied to the substrate.  A card scraper will do it, and so will a smoothing plane.  A simple Stanley #80 cabinet scraper was practically designed for this purpose, and you can get a used one for 15 bucks.  If you're not proficient with either scrapers or planes, I suggest that you work on your skills with them.  In the end, that will be more important to your future enjoyment of woodworking than buying a drum sander just to smooth out veneer twice a year or so.

   Walnutz

1. 
   EBrandt | Feb 14, 2007 04:36am | #12

   I've got no problems using a handplane or a scraper....applying and then scraping/planing smooth makes good sense...still curious...what problems (if any?) will I encounter when hammer veneering the pieces with bandsaw ridges on the show side?

   E.

    

1. 
   Walnutz | Feb 14, 2007 06:19pm | #14

   I'll have to defer to someone else on hammer veneering.....I use a vacuum press.  My GUESS would be that as long as the veneer cut is a reasonably good one, that you wouldn't have issue at all.  When I resaw veneers, the quality of cut is really excellent.  I have my bandsaw tuned as well as I can get it, and it does a very good job.  I use the Woodslicer from Highland Hardware.  You would have no problems hammer veneering one of my veneers, but it will still need to be scraped, planed, etc.... after.

   Walnutz

5. 
   woodman1549 | Feb 14, 2007 04:41am | #13

   Hi Brad I have a 15 + General bandsaw and I use a 3/8 or 1/2 in. blade 3 tpi.I was cutting 1/16 - 1/8 Purple heart for a inlay and it worked great. Mark

6. 
   vincentedwards | Feb 14, 2007 09:27pm | #15

   I strongly reccomend the "Wood Slicer" from Highland Hardware (Highlandwoodworking.com) as well. It leaves a very narrow kerf, stays
   sharp for a long time, and suffers minimal vibration even with
   less than ideal tension on the blade. Another benifit of the small kerf
   is that a smaller bandsaw can gain a higher resaw due to less strain on the motor.

   In answer to the question about smoothness of the cut, these will all have to be
   planed or drum sanded. If you really want a tablesaw quality cut, check out
   the carbide tipped blades. Laguna Tools make the Resaw King blade, which is
   close to $200 but they claim to produce a tablesaw quality finish.
   I still wonder if it's really that good.