Hi,
I just got a new Grizzly bandsaw and I need to cut a 3 1/4″ thick maple chop for the workbench I’m building. It came with a 3/8″ 6 TPI blade and I think I ruined it when setting up the saw.
So, before going out and getting a new one, I wondered if anyone has any advice on the best blade to get for cutting this maple vise chop pictured in the attached photo.
Thank You
Replies
You are probably going to get answers all over the board here. So let's get stated. How strong is the motor on your saw? Using the 6 TPI blade means at any given time roughly 20 teeth are being dragged through the Maple. Lots of shavings, lots of heat - Maple burns easy. So I'm going to say something in the 4 TPI family would be good. As for width, the widest you can use for the given application if you like changing blades. Otherwise stick in the 3/8 to 1/2 range. That will give you a good range of applications and ability to cut fairly tight curves. All, of course, is just my two cents worth.
It's a 1 3/4 horse motor.
I moved the guide bearings too far forward on setup and I think I flattened out the teeth on the brand new blade. I hope that's the problem cause I ripped this maple chop down to 8" and that blade was screaching and all over the place. The cut was really wavy. I have no reason to think it's a tracking issue.
The original Griz blade is probably not that good so if you killed it no big loss. I'm sure other folks here will suggest something that will work for you.
'It came with a 3/8″ 6 TPI blade and I think I ruined it when setting up the saw.'
The blade mine came with was garbage! I don't think you lost anything.
You guys should have bought a relatively expensive band saw, mine didn't come with any blade. Nothing to ruin. :-)
You'll be cutting 12/4 hardwood so a blade with very few teeth is best. A 1/2 inch wide blade with 3 or 4 teeth per inch would be ideal. It's beefy enough to handle the job but can still handle moderate curve cuts.
I have to disagree with the others. Cutting at a slow speed with a 10 tpi or more blade will cut cleaner instead of ripping through the wood & causes less tearout.
Mikaol
The width of the blade is determined by the radius of the cut, I see small radiuses in this part that would require a 1/4 blade and for that thickness, the fewest tooth per inch count you can find. I would cut the small radius first with the 1/4 ‘’ blade then shift to a 3/4 2-3 tpi blade to do the straight cuts with the guide.
Ahh...do you think it would be OK if I could borrow your maid to come to my shop?
I’m guessing the pic shows an example of the bench he wants to build and it’s from Lost Art Press 😊
correct CrowColony. I'm 3/4 of the way done with it.
I'm not sure you can get a 3/4 inch blade to work on that saw.
Get a Woodslicer from Highland, 1/2" 3tpi for all your straight cuts. Get a 1/4 or 3/16 Timberwolf for cutting curves.
Thanks John. I actually ordered a Wood slicer from Highland yesterday. It's a 1/2" variable 3-4 TPI.
But I agree with the comments herein that I really need multiple blades.
Can't have enough blades. You never know when one of the narrow ones will break, and they get dull. Try out some until you settle on what's good, then order a few extra.
Agree on the Woodslicer !!!
Yes, the specs do say max blade width is 3/4"
Especially on a bandsaw there is not a combination blade that will both cut sharp curves and rip straight so I keep an inventory of about 5 blades ranging from 3/16 To the maximum width the saw will allow. I order them in bulk every other year from a blade welding outfit such as R & D bandsaw , as you experienced, there is always a risk of breaking or dulling a blade by inadvertance so having a backup even if it’s not the exact width or pitch can be useful.
Has anyone gotten blades from sawblades.com?
Just ran across them on Instagram today. Wondering if it's a good source.
I was buying most of my blades from bandsawblades.com, but the last ones I tried the Infinity rip blades b/c they were on sale. I think they are far better than Woodslicers. I wouldn’t hesitate to buy them again.
I always keep a resaw blade on mine, it functions well enough for cuts other than resaw.
Suggestion - always buy 2 so you have a back up on hand.
There is nothing sweeter after breaking a blade than having the EXACT SAME ONE in hand and ready to install.
How about using one of the wider blades suggested for the straight cuts but the appropriate forstener bit to establish the tighter radius cuts?
Actually I was thinking of rough cutting the tighter radii then, with a template, cleaning them up with a plunge router.
If you're going to use a template and trim router this DIY band saw jig might be helpful. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VsLN_gJvCZA
That's pretty cool eddo234
And timely too, if you can use it. I just came across it this morning.
It’s nifty but I don’t see the need for it, if you pay attention and have a decent bandsaw you can saw close enough by eye.
Seems to me the whole purpose is to use a 1/4” bit, but on material over 1” thick it’s better to use a larger diameter bit. JMO!
I can see the benefit of cutting a number of pieces out and then not having to spend a lot of time sanding the bs marks out. Rough cutting on the bs and then a quick light pass around the template with a router seems like a much better idea, and every piece is smooth and uniform.
I have the 1" Resaw King on my 14" Laguna SUV. I've been mighty impressed and highly recommend the blade. I also have a 3/8 Laguna blade which works well, but isn't as impressive.
Although I don't have the 14" SUV (I have the 18BX) I've read posts related to blade width that suggested the 1" is too much for the 14". Good to hear it works for you. I went with the 1" for my 18" too, based on posts suggesting the 1 1/4" wasn't necessary, and took a lot more tensioning.
The 14 SUV can easily tension the one inch Resaw King, actually, a 14 inch bandsaw needs less steel than a larger saw due to the shorter moment arm to tension equally a blade. The SUV is no longer offered by Laguna, the 14BX weighs 70 lbs less than the SUV.
As far as TPI ratings are concerned, 6-20 TPI is considered a good range for cutting wood. And since you are cutting the maple wood, you should conform to that range. Now, considering the bandsaw came with a 6 TPI blade, you can get the same or a bit higher for cutting the maple chop.
I have to disagree with the others. Cutting at a slow speed with a 10 tpi or more blade will cut cleaner instead of ripping through the wood & causes less tearout.
That gonna work in 3 1/4" hard maple?
You're always going to clean up a sawn surface, no matter what saw it came off.
I must have been asleep during the class where they taught us that "6-20 TPI is considered a good range for cutting wood." and "Cutting at a slow speed with a 10 tpi or more blade will cut cleaner". And as RobertEJr pointed out, in 3 1/4" maple? Exactly, what are you guys talkin’ about? For smaller blades, used to cut thinner wood, I don't think I've even seen a blade with more than 6 TPI (I know they exist, I just saw them on sawblades.com, but not in any wood shop I've ever been in). The only place for so many TPI, in my humble opinion, is if you're scrolling tight radii.
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