Okay question here about a bandsaw problem. I have a “very” old bandsaw – got it with all the stuff I purchased from the retired guy last spring. No name that we can find and after tuning up and some trial and error (we have the FWW Tuning Up Shop Machines Book) it seems to be running pretty well. I cut out all the pieces for an adult size adirondack yesterday – most of it pressure-treated YP decking and it was doing nicely – very good smooth cuts, maneuvered on the curves really well. Problem was that towards the end (I’m guessing I had been using it for 30-40 minutes off and on) I started having problems with the blade slipping forward on the top tire which took it out of the guide. It was pretty dang obvious whenever it did it because the blade would start to flutter but no real change to the sound of the saw. My “sweetie” would reposition it, retension it (he’s using the “1/4 turn past the loss of flutter” method) and then after a few minutes it would do it again. Any ideas?? I’m guessing I may need to replace the tires. As I said this is a very old, very large machine and I’m guessing he didn’t release the tension between uses. The tires do look rather flat BUT I’m not sure I really know what they ought to look like. The wheels are 18 3.4″ in diameter and the distance from center to center is 37″.
Okay guys, gals – BE GENTLE – no flames here.
Robin
Replies
I'd try more tension, lots more.
I think the 'flutter' methiod works best for the smaller asian machines that aren't capable of tensioning anything bigger than a 1/4" band. My Delta 14" saw wouldn't go past 8,000 psi on a 3/8" blade. Lenox reccomendes 20,000 plus. I run 25,000 psi on my Minimax and never releive the tension. I get the same reading on my tension gage when I take the band off as when I put it on.
That big old machine of yours should be capable of producing proper tension, crank it up and see what happens.
TN- Lab Girl,
Doesn't seem like a tire problem, that wouldn't suddenly start after running well for a while.
A few things, increase the tension if it is on the low side, the flutter method isn't a particularly accurate way to set tension, at low tension the blade can move too easily on the tire face, especially if the rubber has hardened. A quick check for the tires is to try to press the tip of your thumbnail into the rubber, if you can't dent the rubber with moderate force, the tires have gotten hard.
Second, the tracking control should have a lock to hold its setting, are you locking the knob or, if you are, is the lock slipping?
Third, are you trying to back out of dead end cuts? This is a bad practice precisely because it will pull the blade out of the guides and off the tires. If you must back out of a cut, turn off the saw and back out after the blade has come to a halt.
Hope this helps, John W.
TNLG -- with a big honker machine like that, you deserve to be treated to a tension gauge for Christmas! Try Iturra Design, they have several models in a wide price range. Holler if you don't have their catalog (they don't have a web site).
forestgirl Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
I was just reading about the guy who cut his fingers on a table saw.....Yikes! I guess my first advice is "don't fool around" with this thing, fix it correctly and if in doubt, get a professional!
Is the blade old and possibly metal fatigued?
Are the tension and alignment bolts worn? (I.E. do the threads look bigger in spots or is there a wobble in the connection nut).
The tire test in the other post is essential.
Safety first!
Norse
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