OK – this is a little off beat from the usual questions on this topic.
I scored some short (less than 3′) cherry logs about 10-12″ in diameter. Halved the logs with the chain saw, ripped off the corners of the halves on the band saw. Began slicing some flat grain slabs after flattening the inside of the log(s) on the jointer.
Band saw is a 14″ Delta with riser block, 3/4hp. Before you scold, I realize it’s probably underpowered for this kind of work. None the less …
I’d previously tuned the saw to near perfect alignment of the wheels. Blade(s) tracked within a fraction of the middle on both top and bottom wheels. After slabbing off two logs I find the blade is running almost at the front edge of the bottom wheel while centered on the top one.
Cleaned the tires thoroughly, checked the guides (Carter rollers) but can’t get the blade to track on the center of both wheels. Checked the wheel alignment and they’re not out of alignment, perhaps <1/16″. Doesn’t seem like that would be enough to cause the way poor tracking.
Bad blade?
From Beautiful Skagit Co. Wa.
Dennis
Replies
Is there a functional problem? Not cutting straight? Blade running hot? Cutting a curved kerf? Blade coming off? Tension changing?
If it's cutting OK, does it matter where the blade tracking?
Sorry, Unc. .... tracking wasn't the accurate term perhaps. But -Cleaned up the saw, put on a brand new blade and .... it runs true in the center of both wheels.To answer your question about how the blade was cutting: The initial cut was also with a brand new Lennox blade. I'd made I think four cuts through the log with that blade when it bound in the log and I had to work it free after the saw motor overloaded and the relay tripped. When I put on the second new blade and fed it back into the first kerf to complete the cut I found that the first part of the kerf was badly cupped.I freely admit that I'm not the best bandsaw operator. I do have a tendency to crowd the blade so I'm working on improving my patience in that regard. Is the lesson to be learned that overstressing the blade and the machine can distort the blade in such a way as to make it not run correctly on the wheels?...........
From Beautiful Skagit Co. Wa.
Dennis
Sounds to me like you need a new blade - because you bent your second blade also-
I bet you sawn into a crack (split ) or the log wasn't flat and tipped and bent your 2 new blades
The saw has enough power If you use the right blade and let the saw cut.
Hi Ron -Yep, a new blade and everything was pretty much back to where it should be. I wasn't aware that a bent or otherwise distorted blade would result in making it run so out of true like that............
From Beautiful Skagit Co. Wa.
Dennis
How close is the back edge of the blade to the thrust bearing behind it? The distance is supposed to be about the thickness of 4 sheets of paper. The side guides(rollers) are supposed to be close enough to guide but not be in contact as the blade moves past, maybe .003"-.005" and the front edge at about .010" behind the gullets. That way, the blade won't be as likely to twist. Also, see if the back edge of the blade is really crisp or if it's slightly rounded over. If it's crisp and you have a fine sharpening stone, raise the guide assembly and smooth the back edge so it doesn't catch when the wood contacts it. This reduced friction helps the blade cut through easily and keeps the blade temperature down.By the way, how is your table saw working out?
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
HiFi -I'm anal about setting the guides. I strive for a condition where they are as close as I can get them without having any one of them turn when I rotate the wheel by hand.I've not tried 'trueing' the back side of the blade. That, up 'til now, hasn't seemed to be a problem with the Lennox blades I've used.Today, to add to the 'experience', I ripped the remaining cherry log. Managed to get the blade bound in the log (again). This time I noticed that the totally green log had split at the near end and as the blade advanced into this split area it took the path of least resistance and followed the split. Which of course was not aligned with how the log was sitting on the table. A few wood wedges driven into the exit end of the log were needed to complete the split and free the blade. Managed to salvage this blade, though.What type of blade do you use for this kind of work? I'm using a 3/8 x 4tpi but I think I should be using a corser blade?? ...........
From Beautiful Skagit Co. Wa.
Dennis
Back a few issues in FWW theres an article on setting up a Bandsaw and Tensioning the Blade it kind of goes against what you have heard about Tensioning. I have been doing the same thing for a few years , your tires last longer and think I get better cuts.
I have a 14 in. Delta no riser and cut full depth all the time. I have bent a few Blades cutting Bowl Blanks.
Ron
Hi Ron -I don't ordinarily release the tension on my bandsaw. I use it almost every day. Haven't noticed any undue wear on the tires. I'm learning a lot about this process in the .... process. With my saw at the depth of cut and being green wood, I've been forcing the feed way too much. Slowing down I'm having much better luck............
From Beautiful Skagit Co. Wa.
Dennis
Bad tire or out of true rim. But it doesn't matter if it's cutting straight and true and if the band is not in danger of jumping the tire.
Rich
Dennis,
Don't know what the answer is but I had to replace the bottom tire on my one year old Delta 14". I put on a Carter...the correct one...it does not fill the space within the rim, therefore I 'left justified' (so to speak)the tire on the bottom wheel. So far it seems to running very smooth and cutting well... The blade is staying in the center of the top tire under operation.
These are green logs, Dennis? I ordered a different blade than usual for cutting green wood -- sorry can't give you the model number right now, but it's suggested for turners who are cutting out bowl blanks from green (wet) wood. If you're interested, I can go out to the shop tomorrow morning and find the ##.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
Jamie -Yeah, very green. If I hadn't gotten them milled any sooner they might have sprouted new growth! (grin)When I first bought my saw, Eastside had a 3/8" Lennox skip tooth carbide blade on sale at half price. That blade cut anything and everything better than any blade I've used thus far. Unfortunately trying to crosscut a round log (live and learn!) I put a kink in it and haven't been able to afford another one. But ....The Lennox bi-metals or even regular steel blades have been working pretty well. I would, though like to know which blade you got for milling green wood. Have you read Krenov's book "The Art of Cabinet Making"? That's what got me interested and started in milling even short logs like this into useable lumber. I've got some fabulous planks in the initial process of drying now .... hard to wait until they're useable!...........
From Beautiful Skagit Co. Wa.
Dennis
I'll get that info for you tomorrow, Dennis. You've got the bug, too, eh? I love cutting up raw logs, but haven't produced anything great yet. Those big maple logs from last summer are just about ripe now (spalting), but they're huge. Gotta get a rip chain for the chainsaw and set about cuttin' 'em up.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
Edited 1/22/2005 3:23 am ET by forestgirl
If the wood is green, I would use a coarser blade or one that has a wider kerf. And slow down a bit. Every time I have cut wood that was close to being green on my table saw, I have needed to slow down, especially with cherry and maple.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
Thanks, HiFi for the advice on the blade. I see there's also a much greater tendency for buildup of gunk on the blade as well with green wood. Spent a coupla hours yesterday modifying my saw for better dust collection which I'm hoping will help alleviate that problem............
From Beautiful Skagit Co. Wa.
Dennis
One thing I noticed with my bandsaw, which is only a couple of weeks old and I haven't cleaned the tires yet, is that there is quite a bit of dust collecting on them. I'll clean them as soon as it's just a little warmer but I may install a couple of brushes to clean them constantly.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
Jamie -When I bought my new chain saw I asked about getting a chain ground for ripping. The so-called expert advised me against it. First he said it wasn't necessary. If you avoid trying to cut end grain, a regular chain will work fine. Second he made them sound dangerous .... forget the reasoning.I can corroborate(sp) the first piece of advice. With a good sharp chain kept parallel to the log, ripping goes well with an ordinary chain. Even in this green cherry it wasn't difficult at all............
From Beautiful Skagit Co. Wa.
Dennis
Hmmmm, I guess I'll try it without the ripping chain. But from what I've read, the chains on the portable mills are all configured for ripping. Here's the part of your post that I didn't quite understand: "If you avoid trying to cut end grain..."
'splain please? Oh, and as soon as I get out of my jammies, I'll check that blade for you. I got to sleep in this morning!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
Jamie -If you stand the log on end (assuming it's short enough - otherwise just visualize (grin)), and lay the bar across the diameter of the log, then you're cutting end grain. That is indeed difficult to do with an ordinary grind on a chain saw.But if you lay the log down and angle the bar 45 degrees or so to the end then it becomes quite a bit easier. OK, so you're technically still cutting end grain but it becomes sortuva cut along the grain instead of directly head-on. I participated in harvesting some turning wood a few months ago and one of the other fellows was roughing out some of his logs there on site. He's the one that set me wise to this approach. It's plainly evident when you try cutting the log directly perpendicular to the length and get mostly fine dust. Whereas with the bar at an angle you begin to get more shavings. Not the big chips like you're used to when cutting across the grain but not so much fine dust and the cut proceeds pretty well.For whatever reason the guy at the chainsaw store who told me I didn't need a rip grind seemed to consider them dangerous. He may have told me why but I don't remember. I guess there's some truth to the saying: the mind is the first to go!...........
From Beautiful Skagit Co. Wa.
Dennis
When my wife's cherry tree died, I got some beautiful spalted cherry (about 12" base). I cut it up and turned some and sliced some on the Hitatchi resaw. The blade cut great for one cut, then began to wander all over the place.
The blade was getting badly gummed up by gum in the cherry. You might check the blade to see if some of the gum is caking on to the sides of the blade. Simple green and a brass brush and about one hour fixed the problem.
Telemiketoo -Exactly - the blade is indeed pretty gummed up. But I think I've found another issue I need to be aware of when working with this kind of green wood: if there are any existing checks in the ends, it pays to be wary of them. Twice I got the blade almost irretrievably bound in the wood. Both times it was due to running into a split at the end of the log and the blade wanted to follow the path of least resistance. Coupled with my too aggressive feed rate, we're talkin' major torqued blade, stalled motor and PO'd Dennis.Older and wiser now after only two logs! (grin)...........
From Beautiful Skagit Co. Wa.
Dennis
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