Replies

1. 
   jackiechan | Nov 08, 2003 09:35am | #1

   Bake'

   Be sure that the blade is not installed inside out.  The teeth must be pointing downwards towards the table.  A reversed blade will definitely cause wood burn.  If the blade is in the wrong orientation, remove it from the saw, and carefully flip it right side out.  Take care not to over flex the blade, and I'd recommend wearing some gloves - the blade can jump when flipped.

   If you have any questions, please feel free to ask.

   Dan Kornfeld, Owner/President - Odyssey Wood Design, Inc.

1. 
   Curtis | Nov 09, 2003 03:42pm | #2

   Good morning

   another reason for burning is either you are trying to make to tight of a turn in your cut for the blade,or your method is wrong.

   there are a few ways to find out what is going on.

   check the blade. (as jacky stated)

   make a lazy cut through a scrap piece of wood, if there is no burning,we are on the right track.

   you can hone the backside of the blade, and work on you method of cutting, push and turn at the same time.

   you can try a thinner blade for a tighter curve.or just a different blade (I like timberwolf but there are a number of good blade makers out there. although remember the adage,you normally get what you pay for.So I try to stay away from the cheap blades.)

   you might want to buy a good bandsaw book as well.

   Good Luck, and remember always check the simplest solutions first.

   sincerely.  C.A.G.

1. 
   jackiechan | Nov 10, 2003 08:34am | #4

   I believe you ment your reply to Bake Sale.Dan Kornfeld, Owner/President - Odyssey Wood Design, Inc.

1. 
   bakesale1 | Nov 10, 2003 11:04pm | #5

   Thanks for all your suggestions.  Jackie was right, I sheepishly must admit.  One mistake I hopefully wont make again.  Sarge, I like your method for blade tensioning.  It reminds me of the method my uncle used to adjust the timing on his Chevy 350.  

1. 
   RANGERP75R | Nov 11, 2003 05:31am | #6

   bake sale

      You like the method, huh.. I work part time at a company that sells restoration parts and restores Old American Muscle Cars. Co-incidence, well maybe... an maybe not... ha.. ha..

   sarge..jt

2. 
   forestgirl | Nov 11, 2003 08:23pm | #7

   "I sheepishly must admit."  Don't feel too bad -- you'd be amazed how many of us have done similar things, as evidenced in a long-ago "most embarassing moments" type thread.  The first time I used my dado blade, I put it in backwards.  Smoke-city!!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

2. 
   RANGERP75R | Nov 09, 2003 06:21pm | #3

   bake sale

      When I first read you post, I automatically thought of re-sawing. If this burning occurred with a curve cut then that adds some other thoughts as CAG mentioned.

      Use the correct width blade for the radius. I always take a fine stone and with the BS running, touch the back edges of the blade. Place the stone on the table for support and let it touch slightly to round off the back corners. This will reduce friction in a curve cut and help eliminate burn.

      Blade tension is important also. Most saws don't give a proper read for that. Experiment till you get it right. I use the flutter. Raise the guard fully and back off the guides. Turn it on and lower the tension till it starts to flutter. Increase it again till the flutter is gone and add about another 1/4 turn.

   Regards...

   sarge..jt