Replies

1. 
   Rich14 | Jan 11, 2009 05:36pm | #1

   Quang,

   I think Grizzly equipment has evolved into both excellent value for the money and very good quality, judged against any other brand, whatever the price.

   I have the 17" G0513X2. When I bought it several months ago, the model with the motor brake was not yet being advertised. I would have gotten that if it had been available.

   I've been meaning to write a review of the machine and post it here. I'll do that soon.

   I am very pleased with the fit and finish of my machine. It is very robust. All the controls are well-implemented and function exactly as they should. The table is polished and flat. Everything is very professional-looking and feeling.

   Re-sawing 1/8" veneer is no problem, although I've only just set the machine up and have a lot more "testing" to do. The 19" machine should be that much more massive than the one I have.

   That automatic braking is great. My other equipment has it and I highly recommend it. Especially on a band saw which typically takes a very long time to stop, it's a big safety factor. The machines are impossible to hear with the dust collector running and it's nice to know they are "dead" almost instantly on shut-off and not coasting down.

   I've been thinking of getting an add-on electronic brake for my saw, but they are $400-800 aftermarket, so the additional $150 Grizzly charges is a very good deal. In Europe, Australia, New Zealand where safety is taken much more seriously by government, they are mandated for commercial shops.

   While these machines don't have quite the amount of cast iron that you might find in the big European models (at 2-3X the price) They are massive enough and can handle heavy-duty work.

   One caution - My machine weighed 415 lbs for shipping. The machine you're interested in is listed at 480 lbs. I wonder if that is correct, I would expect it to weigh more. Make sure you specify a truck with lift gate for delivery. That's a must-have, at extra cost.

   The machines must ship upright. My machine came in a VERY flimsy wooden crate which was broken in several places. I was astonished at the inadequacy of the crate, given the size and weight of the machine. The machine had partially fallen over in the truck (very easy to happen to a tall, heavy object).

   Fortunately, nothing was damaged. The base pallet was of non-standard size, so the tangs of the standard pallet jack the delivery man had on the truck could not get under it. We had to muscle it to the lift gate and it almost fell off as we started lowering it because the crate was so poorly made and awkward to hold. Have a friend with you (in addition to the delivery person) when you take delivery. That's a lot of weight to control in such an ungainly configuration. Have a HEAVY-duty hand truck ready, the kind used to move large refrigerators. And strap the crate to it while still on the truck, BEFORE moving it to the lift gate.

   The uncrated machine, without the table mounted can easily be controlled on a medium to heavy-duty hand truck to move into position in the shop. It's heavy, but it can be tipped back by one person with the truck under the back spine, and easily rolled around. You won't be able to tip it back once you've mounted the table (unless you weigh a LOT more than me - I'm 170). But with a helper, it can be tipped and then it's very stable on the truck for rolling into place.

   Good luck. I think you'll be very pleased with this machine (I have absolutely no ties to Grizzly, other than being an owner of one of their machines!).

   Rich

   
   

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   Edited 1/11/2009 9:41 am ET by Rich14

2. 
   bones | Jan 11, 2009 05:46pm | #2

   I've had the  17" HD for several years now and it does great.  They've made enhancements since I got mine, so they're even better.  Chuck the stock blade and put in Timberwolfe blades from suffolk machinery. 

   Government's view of the economy could be summed up in a few short phrases:
   If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it.
   And if it stops moving, subsidize it.
   
1. 
   Samm90 | Jan 12, 2009 03:25am | #3

   I attach the Grizz bandsaw comparison chart.

   http://www.grizzly.com/images/pdf/Grizzly_BandsawComparisonChart.pdf

   They have three 17" models. Which model do you own ?

   I'll look into the Timberwolfe blades.

   I heard Laguna also has some nice blades...

   Q

1. 
   bones | Jan 12, 2009 05:35am | #5

   At the time I bought mine, the only model was the 513.  The X2 has a vew more improvements.  The guides are different and the table trunions are different and the table is bigger (I believe) Mine has some plastic handles but to be honest with you that's never made a difference to me.  Again, I'm a hobbyist, but the resaw capacity is great and with timberwolfe blades its served me very well. Government's view of the economy could be summed up in a few short phrases: If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it. And if it stops moving, subsidize it.

3. 
   Rich14 | Jan 12, 2009 04:45am | #4

   Quang,

   Get Michael Fortune's article on setting up your band saw:

   http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/ToolGuide/ToolGuidePDF.aspx?id=24093

   The article came out in Dec. 2004. Prior to that I had been using Timberwolf blades. They are excellent, as is their advice to use low tension, per their "flutter test." But they're expensive.

   Michael recommended Starrett blades from BC Saw in Vancouver. I tried them and I have used a 3 tpi, skip tooth blade ever since. I use a 1/2" blade for everything but very tight curves. The blades from BC Saw are the equal of the Timberwolf blades and about half the cost.

   To cut veneer, I joint the surface of the stock on the joiner. That's the surface that will be glued to the substrate. Then saw a slice. The band sawed surface is uniform, but certainly not the quality of the jointed side nor that which you would get from a table saw blade.

   But in most cases it is ready for sanding or a few passes with a plane or scraper plane, then final sanding. The "secret" is always to use a sharp (new) blade. At the first sign of roughness of cut or "banding" I change blades. That's the advantage of getting reasonably-priced blades. You don't have the urge to make the blade keep cutting after it's lost it's edge, and that makes all the difference.

   When the blade is sharp, the stock feeds evenly and without much effort, so the cut doesn't show signs of the blade's laboring, and overheating and flexing and wandering (the typical "banding" from a poorly-adjusted saw or dull blade).

   When I had a 14" saw, the blades from BC Saw were less than $10 each in quantities of 10. For my 17" machine, they're about $15. I don't know what they cost for a 19" machine, but they will be less than most other high-end blades.

   You don't need special, exotic blades if you follow Michael's advice in adjusting and setting up the saw.

   Rich