Replies

1. 
   JohnWW | Sep 09, 2004 01:03am | #1

   Janet,

   This is a classic problem and it is usually caused by a blade that has gotten dull or isn't matched to the job, tracking is far less likely to be the problem. 

   There is a fair amount to know about setting up and using a bandsaw and your question suggests you don't yet have this knowledge.  My first suggestion would be that you get a book or a magazine article on setting up and running a bandsaw, it will save you a lot of time and hassles, and will make the machine far more useful to you.

   John W.

2. 
   WayneL5 | Sep 09, 2004 01:30am | #2

   I can't be too detailed because it would be too long.   First, obviously, if he can dig up the instructions for you they would help.

   Start with a new blade.  If the teeth got dull on one side from lots of wear or some misuse it could be most of the problem.

   Then, basically, to tune up a bandsaw, first back off the blade guide blocks and rollers both above and below the table.  Set the proper tension (usually the vertical knob on the upper wheel).  Then with the saw still unplugged, turn the wheel by hand and use the blade tracking (usually the horizontal knob behind the upper wheel) to make the blade run centered on the large wheels.

   Then set the rear guide rollers, both above and below the table, so they are about 1/32" behind the blade, not touching it.  Then, set the side blocks till they just touch the blade by the barest amount and are centered, not pushing the blade to one side or the other.  The blocks must be behind the teeth, not interfering with them.

   That's basically it, although fussing with the adjustments may take several iterations and are sometimes not easy to get precise on an inexpensive machine.

   A more detailed discription, such as a good magazine article, would be helpful.

3. 
   jc21 | Sep 09, 2004 06:38am | #3

   If you plan on spending time with your bandsaw, get yourself a copy of Lonnie Bird's The Bandsaw Book ....... about $20. It has just about any info you need to know. It's available here on Taunton's website or your local bookstore, Rockler's or Woodcraft Supply may have it.

4. 
   MatthewSchenker | Sep 14, 2004 03:58am | #4

   I second the motion to buy Lonnie Bird's book. I bought it back when I got my Jet 14" bandsaw, and it was very useful.

1. 
   jyang949 | Sep 29, 2004 06:44pm | #5

   Thank you for the suggestions. I will get a tablesaw book from the library (saving my money for tools!).

   JohnW was right; I replaced the bandsaw blade and it is fine now. I think the old blade had not seen much use--which brings up a related question: Was the slanting probably due to normal wear and tear, or are there practices that make it more likely to occur?

   Janet

1. 
   forestgirl | Sep 29, 2004 07:43pm | #6

   Most likely related to the quality of the blade than anything else.  Stock blades, including their replacements, are rarely of decent quality.  If your replacement blade doesn't last very long, come back to us for suggestions on blades.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

1. 
   jyang949 | Sep 29, 2004 09:29pm | #7

   Forestgirl,

   Thank you. I may be stuck when it comes to the blades, though; haven't been able to find another brand that will fit. I tried brand X in the size that came closest, but it wouldn't fit.

   A clerk at Home Depot said that Sears deliberately makes their machines to only fit Sears replacements. Is this true? It seems to me that it would be easy for a competitor to make the right size blade and still make a profit.

   Janet

1. 
   EdHarrow | Sep 30, 2004 04:25pm | #8

   Janet, you might try Highland Hardware:  http://www.tools-for-woodworking.com/index.asp

   I don't know if you'll be able to determine the correct blade by manufacture on their site as bandsaw blades are typically sold by length.  That said, I bet you could ask and someone there would know.

   Another good (great) source is Lee Valley http://www.leevalley.com/home/main.asp

   Bandsaws can be frustrating (DAMHIKT) but they are just the ticket for lots of stuff, so persevere with the drift (cutting one way or another).

   Oh, that opens a whole can of worms - what does it mean if one's cut drifts to the right, or to the left.  The mind boggles...

2. 
   forestgirl | Sep 30, 2004 07:44pm | #9

   There's hope, Janet.  You can get a bandsaw blade made to any length you need by a variety of companies.  I use Timberwolf blades from Suffolk Machinery.  You need to know how long your blade is, then just give them a call and ask them to make a couple for you.

   I suggest calling Suffolk (800) 234-7297 and tell them that you're using an older, smaller bandsaw, give them the length of the blade and what types of cutting you anticipate doing.  They will help you pick the right blade.  You'll probably have one for resawing and one for small-circumference cutting for instance.

   They will cut like a dream, and they're not expensive (around $11-$16 for a 60" blade).forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

3. 
   EdHarrow | Oct 01, 2004 05:40pm | #10

   Janet, I was looking thru catalogs last night and didn't notice any reference to a Sears/Craftstman 10" bandsaw, but there were many referenced to a Sears/Craftsman 12" bandsaw.  Is there any sort of ID plate on the saw with a model number or name that you can use as a reference?