Need some help with deciding on a bandsaw. I don’t need the top (and expensive) professional saw like Yates, Oliver, Tannewitz and others of that breed, but do want a quality saw. I am considering a Laguna or some other saw in that category. Would appreciate any comments on bandsaws of this quality. Does anyone have experience with Minimax? I plan to buy a 24 inch saw. Thanks in advance for your help.
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Replies
Jerry,
Sorry, no help here. I am in awe of such machinery. What kind of work does one do on a 24 inch bandsaw?
Rich
Rich, right now I am planning on using the saw to cut rocking chair seats. I just rather buy large enough to start with than to have regrets later.
The Delta 14 is probably the best overall value for your money. Modest but reliable quality. A bandsaw is not something you want to buy at the cheapest possible price because when something is wrong, it is REAL WRONG. And it's no fun trying to send a 300 lb. machine back.
I bought an "inexpensive" no-name 14" bandsaw (made in Tiawan or something) a couple years ago. Thought I was doing the guy a favor by taking it off his hands. Every time I look at that darn thing I'm reminded at how stupid that was. I'd rather sand the stock by hand than use it.
I'd recommend a serious test drive before you buy. It's got to be worth the $200+ I wasted.
-Anonymous
Jerry is talking about saws which are clearly a step up, both in price and quality, from the Delta 14". While the 14" Delta, which I have, is a fine saw, it does not compare with the Laguna. A friend of mine who has a Laguna (replacing his Powermatic) was definitely not impressed with my Delta. A Laguna will be hard to beat.
I have been looking at the Agazzani 20" from Eagle Tools. It seems like a better saw than the Laguna.
Does anybody have one?
Jeff in so cal
I bought a 20" Agazzani from Eagle Tools about a year ago. I love my saw and have corresponded with many others who are also very happy. FWW bought one for their shop. Make no mistake, this is a professional saw intended to run all day. If you plan to do serious resawing forget about anything smaller. I had a 14" Delta and it worked OK but the Agazzani is a different class of equipment. Don't let the fancy Laguna advertising fool you. I did a lot of research before I opened my wallet and found the Agazzani to be a much better saw than the Laguna. Also beware of Laguna's claimed higher horsepower motor. The 3hp on my Agazzani is more than adequate. Jess, the owner of Eagle Tool, is a good guy to deal with and he's honest. Tell him hello for me.
I still have the 30 year old version of the 14" Delta. Properly tuned the saw is really capable of quite a lot. The new Delta is a better tool out of the box. The reason I've gotten bigger bandsaws is to resaw and mill parts from matching wood. I've owned a 30" Oliver and currently have a 32" Northfield. I've not had any experience owning one of the Italian steel saws, but from what I've seen at the shows in Atlanta and elsewhere there are a few common frame sizes that are finished out in varying degrees of quality with a variety of options. I understand that many of the different brands of these saws are made in the same factory. I do not know specifically about the Agazzani. I have compared the Laguna and the SCM 24" offerings. I seem to recall that the Laguna had a few bits that were adjustable rather than being welded in place to allow for shipping and wear tolerances. The argument for cast iron over steel has been that cast iron absorbs vibration and steel transmits it - and the cast iron tools are incredibly serviceable over the long run. But today you have to pay dearly for good, new cast iron. The current production techniques and precise balancing evident in the construction of the reputable steel bandsaw brands assures you of a tool that is going to run great out of the crate, but I can't help but wonder how these will do after the moving parts start to wear a bit. A good Tannewitz, Oliver or Northfield can be had at auction for at or near what you will pay for a new 24" saw, but if you do not want to deal with that large a machine or transport from PA or NC (most likely) then stick with new. I highly recommend Lonnie Bird's Bandsaw Book (I've no association with Taunton). Finally, at least up to about 30" try to opt for a saw with the biggest diameter wheels. As long as tensioning is not an issue (and it should not be with a good saw) you will have better service from the blades and more blade options. Happy hunting.
Thanks guy's for the responses to my post. It's nice to have people who have experience with various machines to share their experience. I still haven't made up my mind yet, but am definitly closer to making a good decision. Any more input will be appreciated.
I bought the agazzanni B24 from eagle 5 months ago and have been completely happy with both the saw and the customer service they provide. I too am in southern cal. I think the laguna is slightly inferior in the tires. They are not much different though. It was a few small things that set them apart. Go for the carbide tipped blade, jesse will give a good price on it ( under 200 for the 1"). I would also support you in going for the 24", this way you are not limited. It's only a few hundred more.
Hey,
I am entertaining the idea of purchasing a used 20" 3hp 3p direct drive NORTHFIELD bandsaw for somthing in the range of the the mid $2000. I plan to use it for resawing and general woodworking (not twice a year resawing). Since you have experience with NF I was wondering if you would be kind enough to share your thoughts on whether this is a reasonable price, can it do the job, and reliability, I figure it is 20-30 years old( I think). I get the impression that NF is good machinery.
Your help is greatly appreciated,
thanks,
H-G
Hello,
I am in the market for a bandsaw and have been procrastinating over which one to buy for the past year. I went in to my local tool shop yesterday to have a look at a few models. The Delta 14 inch was very tempting but since it did not come with a fence I was edging toward the General International 14 inch bandsaw which came with a larger cast iron table and a fence. The price difference between the 2 bandsaws...$100 Canadian dollars. The Delta came with a LIFETIME WARRENTY...which makes it very attractive. Forget how much horsepower. Perhaps 1.5hp. I want to make sure before I plunk down $699.00 Canadian dollars + taxes. I want the best quality I can get for my money. Everyone always tells you...buy the best you can afford. doesn't pay to buy cheap tools. Seems the 14 inch bandsaw is a very popular choice for the DIY. Guess it all depends on your needs what saw you choose to buy.
I am just new to woodworking and have taken a beginner's woodworking course at my local college. I might even go back to do a finewoodworking class. I really enjoyed it.
One of these days I hope to be able to build a few small pieces of furniture. I've always wanted to build a bedside table and dresser but have been afraid to try thinking it was much too complicated. I found a wonderful article in Finewoodworking on how to build a classic bookshelf. But that project will have to wait until I finish building my Adirondack chair. I'm such a procrastinator. The wood has been sitting in my basement for a month. I've got all these small projects I'd like to attempt but I'm afraid I don't have the know-how. Maybe by coming to the forum regularly I can learn some useful tips of the trade. I really love the Finewoodworking magazine. I used to read Finecooking but now I'm into reading Finewoodworking. :)
Wanda
Wanda,
As opposed to most other saws that have a fence, the fence on a bandsaw is not a necessity. And an original equipment fence certainly is not. A straight length of board clamped to the table is all that is necessary. To compensate for drift, a tendancy in almost all blades, a clamped board fence is desirable.
Most sawing is done freehand on a bandsaw and many workers fabricate a point-contact guide instead of a fence for resawing.
If the fence is the decision maker in your purchase, consider the above.
Yes, yes read all you can. But more importantly, DO! You can't learn until you experience both successes and mistakes. You will make mistakes! Tons of them. But that's how you progress. Roll up your sleves and make some sawdust. Turn off your computer and get out to that woodshop!
Rich
Hi,
Just wanted to say thanks for the advice. I'm off to finish my Shaker shelf something I've been meaning to do for 2 years. LOL
Wanda
I'm sure it will be a great Shaker shelf!
Rich
I'm as new to this business as you are with the exception that I have a band saw (grin). I'll tell you what I know about what I have.
I bought a Delta 14" 3/4hp machine. I figured this would do everything I'd ever want to do with a bandsaw. Well, that's nearly correct. For 99% of the time it does. I bought it mostly for cutting bowl blanks roughly round for turning. Since buying it I've discovered the marvelous world or resawing "found" wood stuff like when neighbor's tree falls over. That's when you really appreciate what a stronger machine would do.
I've talked with a number of people and read lots of posts in this group and decided that as just as soon as I'm able I'm gonna build a proper stand for the machine and replace the motor with more hp. I'm thinking a pulley change for faster blade speed might be worth thinking about as well. The point: if it's in your budget go for the bigger motor. You'll outgrow the smaller one at some point (sooner probably than later). The 14" model with the riser block gives you 12" of re-saw capacity which is a lot when you stop to think about it.
Now for the quality of the machine itself, from my limited experience to judge such things -
You'll probably have to true up the wheels. Most saws in this price range are probably off a little bit, (so I've been told) especially if they've been fitted with a riser block. Of all the Delta saws like mine that I've looked at since I bought mine, the wheels are not well aligned.
The castings are big and heavy and the machine work seems good to my untrained eye.
Blade changing is an experience in itself. Maybe someone could explain why the blade slot has to go off to the side instead of towards the front so you could just slide the blade in the way it rides in the saw.
While the fence comes as an extra, it's none the less a pretty well made accessory.
I've tried re-sawing material up to 3" thick with a 3/4" blade measuring the start and end widths of the cuts and haven't experienced a tremendous amount of blade drift or lead. Most of it at this point I attribute to operator error.
In short, I like this saw but keep in mind I've never owned anything else to compare it with.Dennis in Bellevue WA
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Northfield is one of the last full line classic iron woodworking machine companies left in the USA. Northfield is a family owned business. I've called them with a few questions and got an immediate response. In my experience they take customer service personally. They should be able to provide any part you need on one of their machines. On the new machines, the electrics are first rate - Marathon "Blue Chip" motors and Furnas controls and motor protection. Even the hand wheels are quality. They had a 20" bandsaw on the floor in Atlanta two years ago. I had never seen that model before, and it is the stoutest 20" saw I've ever seen. I believe that particular saw which was well-equipped could be had at the show for about 6K. The 36" model, new with electric brake was in the neighborhood of 12K depending on fence, miter gage etc. Check out Northfield's web site at http://www.northfieldwoodworking.com. What you get with a Northfield is an industrial machine of solid cast iron, hand built and fitted that will run and run and run.
Now, about price. I've seen 36" saws that are in service (Tannewitz and Northfield) go in the low to mid 2K range. Check out Industrial Recovery Services' web site for on line auctions and you should get an idea of what the market will bear right now. If this saw is close by and perfect then you may be doing fine if it's what you need. It nearly always boils down to what your time is worth. I will say that the Northfield construction in a 20" frame may be a bit overkill for the kinds of blades that will run in that machine. For resawing, I like a 1 1/2" Lenox TriMaster carbide blade with a 2/3 variable pitch. I don't think that blade is recommended for lengths much under 16 feet, but you can probably do just fine with a narrower, 1" or 1 1/4" TriMaster blade. Remember wheel diameter and blade length are considerations in getting good service from an expensive blade. I would check the blade length and be sure what you want will work well on the saw. I think you've got about 14" resaw capacity under Carter #0s on that saw.
In sum, all Northfields are tanks. They do not spare the iron. The people I've met at the shows and spoken with on the phone are nice folks. If the machine you're looking at is set up right after 20 years it's likely to stay right for quite a while longer and if you need a part you should be able to get it.
Wish I was in Atlanta now with some walking around money.
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