Replies

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Jun 29, 2006 07:19am | #1

   Tuning up the bandsaw can help eliminate drift, but its hard to totally eliminate.  The solution is to compensate for it.  Ripping on the bandsaw isn't quite like ripping on the tablesaw.  You can't just push the board against a fence.  The wood must be allowed to follow the drift.  One way is to have a single point fence so you can steer the wood, following the marked line that you want to cut.  Some fences also allow them to be angled to follow the drift. 

1. 
   jazzdogg | Jun 29, 2006 08:47am | #2

   After checking the set-up and alignment of your saw, make sure you're using a sharp, properly tensioned, blade suitable for resawing.

   We have about a dozen bandsaws in the labs at school and do not experience drift on any of them unless a blade is damaged, dull, improperly tensioned, etc.

   We routinely resaw with the stock held tight against the fence, whether we're bookmatching 12/4 stock, or taking multiple slices as thin as 1/10" in thickness for Shaker-style boxes or bent laminations.

   Good luck,

    -Jazzdogg-

   "Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie

2. 
   forestgirl | Jun 29, 2006 09:05am | #3

   " but its hard to totally eliminate. "   Gotta part company with you there, Steve.  If I can tune my old Grizzly 1019Z and, using a quality blade, get zero drift, any decent saw should be able to do the same.  The only time I've had drift was before I installed a Timber Wolf blade (was using the gnarly stock blade) and when the blade started tracking badly due to a loose nut.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

1. 
   DougF | Jun 29, 2006 08:57pm | #8

   Agreed.  Sharp blade properly tensioned eliminate the drift in my BS.

2. 
   John_D | Jun 29, 2006 09:19am | #4

   If you use a one-point fence, you have total control over the direction of the cut.  The very first time I switched to a one-point fence 7" high, I cut a 6" piece of oak into 5/32" slices.

   My goal is for my work to outlast me.  Expect my joinery to get simpler as time goes by.
3. 
   ring | Jun 29, 2006 09:45am | #5

   Everything that's been said already is applicable:

   1.  Make sure it's tuned up with a sharp blade, guide blocks, etc.

   2.  Use a single-point fence, or even no fence at all.  I often use a snap-line to draw the line and just cut it freehand.  I don't see any special advantage to using a fence on the bandsaw unless you're going to repeat the same cut many times.

   DR

4. 
   Rich14 | Jun 29, 2006 04:19pm | #6

   I'll add my 2c to the advice above that all drift can be adjusted to zero. You don't need a one-point fence, your standard resaw fence is fine.

   The band must be accurately centered on the highest point of the tire crown so that the front-back dimension of the blade is absolutely parallel to the direction of the cut (i.e., parallel to the miter slot and perpendicular to the plane of the top wheel).

   Good blades are a must. There are many good brands. Timberwolves are excellent, as are blades from BC Saw and Tool in Canada, http://www.bcsaw.com, (888) 251-2236. You have to call - can't order from the web site. About U.S. $9-10 per blade.

   Do yourself a huge favor and get a copy of FWW #173, Dec., 2004, pp 66-71, "Five Tips for Better Bandsawing," Michael Fortune. The best set of instructions for tuning and using a bandsaw.

   Rich

   
   

   ---

   Edited 6/29/2006 9:20 am ET by Rich14

1. 
   YesIWood | Jun 29, 2006 06:01pm | #7

   Rich,

     I agree with you 100%!  I used to use a single point fence, then I adjusted the fence to account for drift.  But then I read the article on "5 steps" of resawing.  WOW I follow his rules all the time.  I love to resaw, now.  

     Everyone should follow the tip on centering the top (alignment) wheel.  You will be amazed.

    Joe

   Is it really saw dust or wood dust?