Were the pictures of any help in solving your dust problem?
Frosty
“I sometimes think we consider the good fortune of the early bird and overlook the bad fortune of the early worm.” FDR – 1922
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Replies
Hi Jfrostjr,
Yes, thank you for posting those pics. The tech came in on Thursday. Was here for about 30min. Had to do some minor adjustments on the bandsaw. The wheels were fine. It was the blade that was the problem. The brazing was responsible for the weird sound I was getting. (scraping on metal) Funny because I checked the blade and I didnt' feel any roughness on the weld.
I asked the tech about the lower guide assmembly. Apparently you can't move it back any farther. So the teeth on smaller blades will touch the side bearings when the saw starts up and you begin cutting. To get around the problem the tech suggested 2 possible options.
Option #1... move the back thrust bearing on the lower guide assembly forward and of course if you move the thrust bearing on the lower guide assembly forward you have to move the upper wheel forward as well so it lines up with the lower thrust bearing.. a lot of fiddling around if you ask me..
Option #2... just move the side bearings away from the blade so they are not in contact with the teeth once the wood is passed through the blade. The lower guide assembly can only be moved so far back.
Later today I have to change the blade on the bandsaw and put on the new 3/8" blade. Hopefully I won't run into any problems. I'll finally be able to cut the backslats on my chair.
How necessary are the lower guide side bearings? I've heard some people say they are not necessary at all as long as the lower guide trust bearing is supporting the blade.
Wanda
Wanda, I don't remember what kind of bandsaw you have. Is there any possibility of installing Cool Blocks as lower guides. I know they're usually used in the upper bracket, but just a thought. You can bury the blade in them with no ill effects.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Hello,
Yup, never thought of that. Not sure if that would work on my bandsaw. The bandsaw I have is a GI 17" 2hp with round bearings on the upper and lower guide assemblies.
When you change blades do you find you have to adjust the tracking knob much? I wasn't expecting changing blades to be so easy "uneventful". when I put on the new blade this morning all I had to do was basically tighten the tension knob. Seems to be tracking just fine. The 8tpi blade sure makes a difference when cutting 3/4" material. I don't have near as much sanding to do. Now to find out how to coil up the old bandsaw blade.. I haven't figured out how to do that yet...
gotta ? for you... what do you use more.. a spindle oscillating sander or a bench top belt sander for sanding small parts (such as parts for an adirondak chair)
I'm still deciding between the General International benchtop oscillating sander and the portable Rigid combination spindle sander. The only sander I own is a PC orbital palm sander. I think it's time for an upgrade.
Now that I'm using the bandsaw more I am beginning to realize that it would be great to own a spindle sander or disc /belt sander.
Wanda
Edited 9/1/2007 2:04 pm by Wanda200
Hi,
Here's a picture of the lower guide assembly..
Wanda
Unless someone can come up with a clever retrofit, you're out of luck on the Cool Blocks. I believe you've hit upon the main drawback to the bearing-type guides.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Hi,
I hooked up the bandsaw to my 2hp shop vac the other day. Unfortunately, it isn't that effective. The dust is still gathering around the lower guide assembly.(around the bearings.)
Not sure whether using a more powerful shop vac with a 2 1/4" shop vac hose would
make any difference. What do you have connected up to your bandsaw? I was wondering if positioning a magnetic dust collection hood (LeeValley has them) directly across from the lower bearings would work.
Here is a picture of my Bandsaw with the shop vac connected.
Wanda
That's quite a step-down in size from the exhaust port to your shop-vac hose. Plus, the hose looks quite long. It's possible that you're just not getting enough airflow to be effective.
That said, I think you're always going to have some dust accumulation around the lower guide. That area on any bandsaw isn't very aerodynamic, if you know what I mean, so there are lots of nooks and crannies in which dust can accumulate. (What exactly is a "cranny," anyway?)
-Steve
Hi Steve,
Yes, going from a 4" exhaust chute to a 1 1/4" inch shop vac hose isn't the greatest solution but that's all I have. Wish I knew someone with a 2 1/2" shp vac hose so I could test it out. Most of the shop vacs I've looked at come with small hoses. Unless of course you want to spend over $200.00 I'm not convinced that investing in a larger vac with more cfm would be worth it. A more powerful shop vac would cost me almost the same as a Delta 1.5HP DC. I'd be better off purchasing the Delta DC for a little extra money. At this point I'm not even convinced that a Delta 1.5 HP DC would make that much of a difference.
The hose on my vac is around 7' long. I use it mostly to suck up the saw dust and other debris on my workshop floor. Plus I use it for sucking up the dust that accumulates on my tools. Don't think it would make too much of a difference if I shortened the hose on the shop vac and connected it up to the bandsaw. Anyways I'd probably still end up with tons of dust around the lower guide assembly.
Dust collection on a bandsaw is worse than on a contractor saw. Would be nice all the same though to own a Delta 1.5Hp DC so I could connect it up to the jointer and table saw.
Wanda
I haven't done the serious collection at the band saw that's needed. I do in fact use the Veritas router DC fitting as a part of my lame attempt at DC on this machine though (pic below).
I doubt that you can get very effective DC on a band saw with only a vacuum -- it doesn't move enough air. Look to others for the best tips, which will probably include DC beneath the table and out of the lower wheel housing. In the meantime, here's what I've done with the Veritas dust chute, hooked up to a 1.5HP Jet DC:View Imageforestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Interestingly enough, at the Marc Adams School, he does not bother to use a DC on his band saws. He says that it is not worth the effort considering how little effect it has. Instead we would vacuum it out after using it. With a crevice tool it only took a few seconds to get everything.
Hi,
The fine particles that the bandsaw creates is a real health hazard. Best to collect as much of that dust as possible before it becomes airbourne. Otherwise yes just suck out the lower guide assembly using a vac after each use. That's what I've been doing.
Doesn't take long for the room to fill with dust.. makes breathing difficult.
I think it's best to just wear a good respirator when working with the bandsaw.
Wanda
"Instead we would vacuum it out after using it. With a crevice tool it only took a few seconds to get everything." Cannot comprehend that at all. When I saw something on my bandsaw, there is sawdust in, under and around it, on the floor, in the crevices of the saw, on the table saw (which sits right next to it). Some kind of DC is definitely required. I'm sure there is plenty of other invisible dust that escapes.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
forestgirl,
I'm sure I remember a pic up from Sarge that showed hoses attached both to the top like yours and another that attached underneath. Hopefully he'll chime in here.
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
For my Delta I made a two-collector system.
View Image
This box gizmo is held in place with magnets.
And this is just sandwiched between the BS frame and the leg assembly.
I've been very pleased with the results; no more Mt Vesuvius (sp?) like dust eruptions.
Ed,
The smaller hose coming from the Y underneath; does it go up to the top ala the way foretgirls is set up?
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
It goes to the bottom of the bottom wheel. This old bandsaw has a dustport opening at the bottom.
View Image
Clouds of dust used to rise up, with the blade, at the back of the saw. No more.
Yep, that post (Sarge's post) was in response to the pic I posted of the Veritas chute. He was thinking about buying one, IIRC, but since he's so clever with duct tape and such (ROFL!) he was able to get by without.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
"Yep, that post (Sarge's post) was in response to the pic I posted of the Veritas chute. He was thinking about buying one, IIRC, but since he's so clever with duct tape and such (ROFL!) he was able to get by without" quote.. FG
And you forgot to mention cheap-skate, Jamie! ha.. ha...
Regards...
The Duct Tape Kid .... well OK... old man! :>)
Sarge, I would never call you a "cheapskate." A thrifty ol' buzzard, yes, but never a cheapskate. ROFL!!!!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
That's what I need, another woman that is cruel to me in my declining years.... he.......
Sarge..
Hello Forestgirl,
OMG! you haven't done the serious collection at the bandsaw that's needed.... What do you consider "serious collection"????
You have a 1.5 HP Delta DC.. How do you find the magnetic dust chute? does it keep the table top dust free? I bet you still have tons of dust building up on your lower guide assembly.
Why don't you have the DC connected to the dust chute beneath your bandsaw table. Having the magnetic dust chute connected above the table really isn't going to be that effective.. Most of the dust is dragged beneath the table and onto the lower bearings.
For now I'll just have to stick to wearing a respirator and using the shop vac to suck up the dust around the lower guide assembly after each use.
If I had your DC I'd definitely have it connected to the lower dust chute.. Love to see if that would make a difference.
Wanda
Wanda, what's with the huge letters? Hmmmmm.
I haven't been using my band saw that much and have procrastinated about DC with it. I hook up the small port at the bottom wheel when I'm doing something especially dusty, but what I mean by "serious dust collection" is putting in a port under the table, and maybe cutting out a new port in the bottom at a better location (mine's an old Grizzly 1019Z with a small port at the back -- hooking it up helps, but not tremendously).
BTW, I have a Jet, not a Delta. Bought it from "migraine" back before he moved down to California. The Veritas chute, when hooked up to the DC, does quite a nice job of cutting down on the dust above the table, keeping it out of my face, especially when cutting shapes in plywood and such. But since the blade moves down through the table, it would be most effective to add DC near the lower blade guides. Others here at Knots will provide pictures, I'm sure.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Hi Forest Girl,
Didn't realize the print was that BIG! :) Guess I have a preference for large fonts.
I think I'll try one of those Veritas dust chutes. I'm thinking of placing it opposite the lower guide bearing assembly.. providing there's enough space to mount it.
Wanda
I suspect a spindle sander would be much less likely to give you an "ooooops!" in your sanding. I have an inexpensive, older model Craftsman spindle sander which I use on some projects and it's extremely helpful. I also have a belt/disc combo machine, but that belt moves at a speedy clip, things like chair arms could get out of control real quick, and the curve of the belt in that machine isn't near as easy to put to wood as the spindle.
Does Home Depot still stock parts for their sander??? I had heard something about that machine that made me think maybe not. Would love to know the real scoop.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Wanda,
how to coil up the old bandsaw blade.. I haven't figured out how to do that yet...
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/ToolGuide/ToolGuideArticle.aspx?id=5206
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Folding a bandsaw blade is easy, as long as you don't try to get too personally involved. Follow the instructions, and let the blade fold itself. I think where people go wrong is that they try to control the situation. Just let it flow.
And wear gloves.
-Steve
Hello,
I found a video on the web the other day demonstrating how to coil a bandsaw blade. So far I have only been able to do it 2X successfully. I've been practicing on an old bandsaw blade. I'll just have to keep practicing.
Wanda
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