Replies

1. 
   RANGERP75R | Nov 12, 2002 08:52am | #1

   Paul

      Probaly won't be much help here, but I use a point fence. A Grip-Tite on the BS table and the feather is the only thing that touches the stock. Built a taller one for re-sawing taller stock. Tried this years ago and got the feel. Once I did, I have never gone back to long fence. Just like the feel of me controling the stock as it floats through the blade. Not for everyone I suppose. Might just try it to see.

      I'll let the long fence folks reccomend on that. Ha..

   Good luck with your decision..

   sarge..jt

2. 
   RSRose | Nov 13, 2002 02:48am | #2

   Paul,

   I feel that a factory fence on a bandsaw is a waste of money. You never use it. You always end up making a specialized fence of one kind or another, just as Sarge described. And once you make the kind of fence you need (as dictated by the cutting characteristics of the blade) that's the best fence for the machine.

   Often, the best fence is a hardwood straight edge clamped to the table at the correct angle.

   R

1. 
   DennisS | Nov 14, 2002 05:01am | #6

   > ....I feel that a factory fence on a bandsaw is a waste of money.

   I would probably agree with you, Rich if 1)I knew more about the subject and 2) if I hadn't already purchased the Delta fence for my Delta band saw.

   Haven't tried the point fence technique yet, but what the Delta fence has going for it is being able to adjust for blade drift. Just run the test piece through free hand to establish the native line of cut, clamp the test piece to the table, loosen two nuts on the top of the fence and it adjust to this angle.

   Granted there is the issue of grain deflection but I haven't had any trouble with that so far.

   My advice to the originator of the thread is - if you decide to go with a commercial fence, get one that's adjustable like the Delta.

   This all from a self-confessed newbie to the woodworking world.

   ...........

   Dennis in Bellevue WA

   [email protected]

3. 
   Shepherd1800 | Nov 13, 2002 05:00pm | #3

   I also think a regular of factory fence on a band saw is a waste of money.  The best fence is a single point fence that only contacts the wood just next to the teeth.  This allows for any crabbing should the blade want to follow the grain or if the blades teeth are a little dull on one side.  I would give you a link to a pic for one but my web site is down.

    

   Stephen Shepherd

1. 
   nicobie | Nov 14, 2002 03:05am | #4

   I respectively disagree.

   It's tough enough to push steady & square with the table and fence without trying to take in angle of drift.

   Why not tune your saw and fence so you can get a decent cut every time.

   I know, everybody has their own ways.The proof is in the puddin'

1. 
   PMurrett | Nov 14, 2002 03:18am | #5

   Nicobie:

   And your fence of choice would be . . . . . . ?

   PMM

4. 
   blacksmith5 | Nov 14, 2002 05:06am | #7

   I went to a steel sales yard & bought a large 8" X 8" 90 degree angle long enough to clamp to the table. I trued it up against a 1" resaw blade & went to work resawing 2" x 8" x 10' maple. & that doesn't cost a fortune.

   Blacksmith5

5. 
   RANGERP75R | Nov 14, 2002 09:58am | #8

   Paul

      If uou go with the long fence, Dennis had merit about an adjustable for drift. Clamp the test cut to the table then put your long fence in place and you're set. Now, richard made a fence with angle. You can with MDF and a host of things.

     If you use Dennis's method, a home-made fence works just as well as a commercial fence. After you clamp the test piece, just clamp the home-made in place as you would a commercial and clamp it. Remove the test piece and your ready.

   sarge..jt 

1. 
   DennisS | Nov 14, 2002 10:18am | #9

   > ... After you clamp the test piece, just clamp the home-made in place as you would a commercial and clamp it. Remove the test piece and your ready.

   And every time you change the cut width you have to make a new drift test piece?? (grin)

   Make your 'point fence' approach sound more appealing....

   ...........

   Dennis in Bellevue WA

   [email protected]

1. 
   RANGERP75R | Nov 14, 2002 10:36am | #10

   Dennis

      Isn't life fun. Ha.. I love the point fence. It does take some practice and total concentration to master, but once I got the feel; I haven't changed back and probaly won't. Just play with it and see what you think. I felt funny with the TS short fence Sgian turned me onto at first, but now I'm hooked except with larger panels.

      Hope your having fun with the turning. Thought at first you might sell the TS and become a dedicated turner. Ha..

   Late EST.. Have to put in the gruelling 6 hrs. tomorrow. he..

   sarge..jt

1. 
   SgianDubh | Nov 14, 2002 02:50pm | #11

   Here's the deal with bandsaws and their fences, and this comes from someone with many years experience with many different machines. Smaller bandsaws, and their fences behave consistently inconsistently, ha, ha, and in a sense everyone before me has made valid points.

   Outwith the massive machines where the blade is usually thick enough and wide enough to mostly 'plough its own furrow' so to speak, each blade you mount on the wheels will behave in its own idiosyncratic pattern. Blade 1 will track near perfectly, Blade two will persistently drift off to one side or the other, and blade 3 will never know which way it wants to drift, annoyingly switching track at inconvenient moments. The nature of the material being cut can have a dramatic effect. Resinous pine cuts differently to a dry walnut, and a fresh blade will change its characteristics as it wears out, and so on.

   So you'll find the factory fence useful for some blades, and a skewed fence necessary for others, and  blade 3 described in the previous paragraph will only cut consistently using a single point fence. For deep sawing of veneers and the like, I've found the single point fence to be most reliable. Apart from setting the fence at the right distance from the blade, all that's needed before each cut is line scribed with a marking gauge to follow, and concentration. Slainte, RJ.Some stuff I've made.

1. 
   Shepherd1800 | Nov 14, 2002 06:14pm | #12

   Here is a pic of an adjustable single point fence.  It has two fences, one short and one tall, it is reversable.  It is held into the miter slot with a thumbscrew that spreads the wood and locks it to the table.  The other thumbscrew allows for adjustments to be made in width and locks the fence in place.  The entire assembly can be removed while retaining the setting on the fence.

   Stephen

   http://www.ilovewood.com/fence2.jpg

2. 
   RANGERP75R | Nov 15, 2002 06:35am | #13

   Slainte

      Thanks for the intervention and info on different methods. I prefer the point as I now prefer the short TS fence. Bottom line I suppose is what works best for you. These work best for me.. Still got the other options if the need arises.

   sarge..jt