Replies

1. 
   Jamie_Buxton | Jul 08, 2003 09:58pm | #1

   Butch  --

     My belief is that the technology used in the side bearings doesn't matter much, particularly for resawing.   In resaw, you've got a big blade under high tension, and it just doesn't flap around that much.  Bearings, bushings, blocks -- it doesn't matter.   However, the thrust bearing at the rear is a different story.  Many European bandsaws (for instance, my Laguna and your Agazzani) have a really strange thrust bearing.   It is a wheel that can rotate, but the blade bears on the side of the wheel.   When the blade touches the wheel, it must slide along the wheel.  If the designers would turn the wheel 90 degrees, the blade would have a true rolling interface to the wheel.  On my saw, the bearings wore to the point that I'd get showers of sparks from the back of the blade.   I finally built true rolling thrust bearings, and they've lasted much longer than the original equipment.

1. 
   scattergun | Jul 09, 2003 06:45am | #2

   Jamie:

   Funny you should mention it...the site below shows just what you're talking about with the addition of a groove in the thrust bearing to help align things. If you explore their site a bit, I'm sure you'll see why you built your own--no matter how much you think you're willing to spend, it looks like they can make you a device to meet that budget.

   Actually, those are very fine devices and I could not personally make one for many times over their prices.

   Talked to one of my fall-back sources, a retired RPE who works part time at our local Woodcraft. His saw? Uses Cool blocks.

   http://www.carterproducts.com/product.asp?product_id=66&p_id=6&cat_id=12

   Thanks.

2. 
   AlanTurner | Jul 09, 2003 04:45pm | #3

   I have recently put the carter roller bearings on my Aga. 20", but do not yet have enough miles on them to comment.  They work fine, but I do not cut pine ofter, and never resaw it.

   Alan

3. 
   scooter1 | Jul 10, 2003 03:30am | #4

   I have been told that for re-sawing (where there is tremendous pressure on the guides) that the roller type are better. Next choice would be the cool blocks, but you will get some wear on those, and finally the solid types, but they will heat up. I don't do enough re-sawing to really offer an expert opinion. I like my roller guides, though; I can adjust them to zero clearance and there is no heat build up, the roller bearings roll nicely and do not damage the blade nor the bearing.

   Regards,

   Boris

   "Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934

4. 
   sanderdude | Jul 11, 2003 03:13am | #5

   Hi Butch:

                 I use a 20 inch powermatic, and resaw a lot of 12 inch wide exotics for several luthiers in my area.  I have to say from my experience that you would be wise to spend the $ for carter bearing guides. I've used lots of bandsaws in other shops than my own and the only ones that worked well had carter  guides. p.s. I love bandsawing, if I couldn't have one I would take up another career. 

1. 
   scattergun | Jul 11, 2003 06:42am | #6

   Hey, Rubb:

   "Rubb"? Oh well...

   Glad to hear from someone who has done a bunch and also has an opinion. Carter shows two styles of bearing guide, the "guidall" series uses a thrust bearing with a notch, obviously to engage the back of the sawblade. I wonder what would happen if you had that notch in both top and bottom guides and then bumped the blade out of the upstairs notch?

   Maybe you could say "Look, I can see your house from here."

   Thanks again

   Butch

   Lumber Reduction Center

   "We Specialize in Everything."

1. 
   AlanTurner | Jul 11, 2003 03:41pm | #7

   They way the guides are to be set, that should not happen.  The thrust bearing is set about 1-2mm behind the rear of the blade; the forward pressure of feeding the stock pushes/bends the blade into the notch.  This has not been a problem for me, at least yet.  I use a 1" carbide for resawing, so it is pretty stiff.

   Alan