Replies

1. 
   joinerswork | Apr 02, 2012 08:45am | #1

   Mike,

   Without knowing your saw, or the blade you are using, it could be a number of things.

   Most likely, your blade is dull.

   Could be a too narrow blade, not enough tension, or too small teeth.

   The burn marks make me think dull blade tho.  I have bought brand new blades that were dull right out of the box.  Some brands are worse than others for this.

   Ray

2. 
   roc | Apr 02, 2012 11:34pm | #3

   I agree so far

   Other things to check :

   Is the fence square to the table and is the fence parallel to the blade ?

   Is the edge of the board that is on the table square to the face of the board that is against the fence ? 

1. 
   roc | Apr 02, 2012 11:33pm | #2

   Crazy Spam Filter

    When I would type "G r e a t   s u g g estions so far" with no spaces between the letters the spam filter would kick me out.

   I finally tracked it to needing to put spaces in between the letters "s u g g"

   Give me a break.

1. 
   RalphBarker | Apr 03, 2012 06:52pm | #8

   the filter

   is of dubious value.

2. 
   PhillipB | May 17, 2012 01:02pm | #9

   It's not the spam filters fault ...

   it's the fools who implemented it. 

3. 
   hammer1 | Apr 02, 2012 11:36pm | #4

   With a bandsaw, you sometimes have to adjust for blade drift. You can't set up a fence parallel with either the table or the blade, it has to be set to account for the drift. An easy way is to draw a straight line on a 3/4" x 6" +- board. Lay it flat on the saw table and cut straight down the line. Stop about half way without moving the board. Set the fence parallel with the edge of the board. This assumes you have a sharp blade set up and tensioned correctly.

1. 
   roc | Apr 02, 2012 11:57pm | #5

   With a stack of problems that is true

   > can't set up a fence parallel with either the table or the blade, it has to be set to account for the drift<

   However

   When the blade is sharp and all other components have received proper care then you can  set up a fence parallel with the blade and square to the table.  No acounting for "drift".  Just set it up square like one would a table saw and make the cut.

   Here is one for an example.

    

   
1. 
   hammer1 | Apr 03, 2012 12:14am | #6

   You never know with bandsaw blades. Some will not have any drift, others will. You'll see a lot of folks use point fences when resawing or cutting parallel.  Instead of a long flat board fence, a block is cut to a point and that point is set up whatever distance is wanted, so it's even with the teeth on the blade. The work only contacts that point. Pretty commonly seen in any bandsaw or other machine text book. Forcing a board to stay against a long flat fence when the blade is drifting can cause the issues the OP asked about.

   I used to work for York Spiral stairs. We made them by resawing 2"x12"x20' and 2"x6"x20' lumber then laminating around forms. We always set up for drift and used a straight fence with a stock feeder. Could be the fence may have been parallel with either the table of the blade but we would never have known or cared. Cutting 20' 2x12s one after the other really challenges any saw and blade. Coming out wrong wasn't an option.

4. 
   swenson | Apr 03, 2012 01:58am | #7

   Have you checked the guide blocks and thrust bearings under the table.  Sounds like they are ok above but set too lose on the bottom.

   Not too sure how you would set the fence for drift if it is cutting straight down the middle on top. 

   Does it cut too close to the fence on the bottom even when you flip the workpiece end for end, putting the original topside on the bottom?

5. 
   Rob_Sp | May 18, 2012 04:33pm | #10

   A dull blade

   as already noted will cause the blade to deflect inside the wood. Blade drift can also cause a problem if you are trying to keep it fenced, adjust the blade to track with the teeth in the center of the crown on the wheel to minimize this.

   Here is a quick tip for resawing, rip a kerf top and bottom on the tablesaw, first fence one face and rip a shallow kerf, flip end for end and fence the same face to rip a kerf down the other edge, this is very quick as the cut is not deep.. Take to the bandsaw and now line up the blade to the  kerf and resaw without the fence as the top kerf will serve as a guide. The blade will naturally want to stay in the path of least resistance even if a little dull, an you will naturally compensate for any drift, this is especially useful if you have a narrow blade on the bandsaw and don't want to change it.

   Rob