Hello to all who post on this forum and get the same questions over and over. Thank you for your time helping others out until we have the experience to take the torch. I am setting up my shop and have no bandsaw. I have did some reasearch and see some really cool projects getting made from this machine so I think one would be usefull in my shop. I dont want to buy a machine that has functions and capibility that I will never use so that is what I am trying to figure out. Since I have never used one I am having a hard time understanding what all you guys use yours for. I am guessing everyone has there favorite and thats fine but most of all just tell me what size and specs I should be looking for that would be a great machine that would also grow with me as a woodworker but not commercial production facility. So basicly a machine that would be more than a starter machine but not a professional $$$. I see where some guys are finding the old machines and buying them due to being built like tanks and would last forever but where the heck do I look for those? Maybe that is just a diamond in the rough and they are very rare. Thanks everyone.
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That's a lot to cover, I'll try to hit some high points.
Many, if not most woodworkers today either started or still have a 14" cast frame Asian import Delta clone. Just about all of these 14" saws have the same specs, with only some minor differences between brands.
These are great saws and can handle more than they should but they are also a starter saw and suffer from lack of power in heavy use. these can take you far towards finding out what you use a bandsaw for.
What type of woodworking you're interested in will be the deciding factor of which size saw you settle on. You probably aren't going to get your last saw the first time out.
I suggest getting a saw like I mentioned above and becoming familiar with bandsaw operation and what you find yourself using it for, then upgrade.
So that being said I would think you would suggest the Grizzly G0555LX with the cast iron wheels? Or do you suggest another model or brand.
Cast iron wheels are better but not big factor on smaller machines.
My bandsaw (Laguna 16HD) is the workhorse in the shop. I don’t like to rip solid wood on the table saw. I find it easier (and safer) to rip on the bandsaw then plane (hand or power) to final dimension. I use it to resaw for thinner boards and down to about 3/32 for shop sawn veneer. I cut all my leg tapers on the bandsaw and clean up with a hand plane. Curves of course and bowl blanks for the lathe
“[Deleted]”
I'll second the notion of ripping most all boards on the bandsaw. Personally I would go bigger than a 14" assuming you have the space, but that's just my opinion. There are several brands in different price ranges that are great. Should you go new the hardest part may be finding one in stock without having to wait 10-12 weeks.
My father had the Grizzly and it was a decent machine. I would say better quality than I've seen on some other Grizzly equipment. I have a 1 Hp Jet 14" saw (one of the many Delta clones) that has served me well. The primary limitation for me is the 6" resaw capacity. A riser block is available on most of these 14" machines to increase resaw, but I have read a lot of negative reviews on them so I haven't tried one myself. The saws are often underpowered for that much of a cut. I've had the saw for more than 20 years without any problems. From your note you don't want to spend a fortune and so you are going to be limited. Prices on these machines have really gone up since Covid.
If you are thinking of resawing in the future, I would skip the starter saw and use the money toward a lifetime saw. I love my Laguna 14/12.
If you are only going to cut curves, scrollwork and such, there are a bunch of lower priced options. If you want to get started really cheap, find a used Craftsman 12 inch in good shape. They are good saws, and you can find one for 100 bucks. They are less finicky than the 14 inch cast iron saws. And if you want to upgrade, you can sell the Craftsman for what you paid for it.
Yes, as John said above the Laguna 14/12 or Rikon 10-326 is the model for you. I made the mistake of getting a cheap beginner bandsaw and returned it. Sure, you can bigger and better ( for more money ) or hunt for a used good deal ( which will take time ). My Rikon rips, cuts curves, and can resaw - it covers 98% of my needs.
I work very similarly to jdstreet above, with the bandsaw rather than table saw, being the proverbial “heart of the shop”. In addition to all the tasks on the list given above, I use mine for quite a bit of joinery as well. For both tenons and bridle joints, it offers a safe, accurate and repeatable way to cut the cheeks of these joints on the ends of stock of arbitrary length.
Original post expresses concern about unnecessary features. Bandsaws really tend not to have too many bells and whistles. A braking system to bring the blade to a swift stop on powering off is nice, and pretty much a standard feature on modern saws, at least this side of the pond. A mechanism to easily relieve tension on the blade when it won’t see use for a while is also nifty, though I rarely get to use mine. Tension gauges for the blade are a useful rough indicator, but notoriously inaccurate. A good set of bearings and decent fence, both of which should be easy to adjust and dial in, make the difference between “acceptable” and “great”. Aftermarket versions of these are a possibility, and there are plenty of ways to tweak stock fences, or install auxiliary fences, to get something that works for you. I’ve always been disappointed with mitre gauges on bandsaws, but they’re generally not too important, and other tools are often better suited for that work anyway, though a tilting table (up to 45 degrees) can be really useful for more shaping more complex parts.
There are three main stats that are important to look at: throat (dictates max crosscut and limits to curve depth); cutting depth (dictates max width that can be resawn); and of course power. The maximum blade width is less important, and generally increases in proportion to the power and size of the machine anyway — ie there’d not be too much advantage to putting a 1” blade on a 10” machine instead of a 1/2” blade anyway. I find myself only rarely bumping my head against the limits of my 16” throat machine with a 12” resaw capacity (and the 3hp motor can handle such cuts, with the appropriate blade). And it gets a lot of use, as mentioned. Though it’s very firmly in the middle, between the smaller hobbyist models and the 22” behemoths. This is for furniture work up to large (6’+) dressers and the like, and I do a lot of stock prep and resawing. You may well be able to get away with less if your requirements or ambitions so allow, but as John_C2 mentions, it’s definitely better to buy once and buy well if you see yourself resawing and similar.
Like many I have a 14" Bandsaw. Cast iron Delta clone. I use it for quite a few things - Reswaing boards, cutting tendons on large pieces (like for work bench) where a table saw isn't practical, ripping large, or very warped boards where again, the table saw isn't a safe option. I also use it to cut curves on pieces. Mine came with the circle jig, so I have also used it to cur circles!
From the perspective of the high end amateur without professional aspirations, I will second the 14" option - mine copes with most anything I can throw at it.
An ideal 14" saw for what you seek will have not less than a 10 inch resaw capacity (you WILL want that so under no circumstances buy a saw with only 8 inch capacity. 12 is ideal) and preferably at least a 1KW (1.25HP) or more powerful motor. Whether the wheels are steel or not is really unimportant - heavier wheels will jam less easily, but if your saw jams then you are using it wrong.
It is also essential for hobby saws to have a tilting table - this is pretty much standard, but there are a few rare exceptions - these are best avoided.
Buy at least TWO half inch 3TPI carbon steel blades and ONE 1/4 inch 5-7 TPI blade. When you know what you want to do after that you can think about buying more expensive blades, but TBH I buy cheap blades and recycle them at end of life, then if I hit a nail it's not a catastrophe.
Second-hand machines are easy to obtain, but parts for them may be harder to get. Even so, nothing on a band saw is complex and engineering shops can make odds and sods for not much $$.
Bearings are often poor quality on import saws but those can be replaced with better ones if they fail.
As with all machines, you get what you pay for - a machine that costs 30% less than another will likely not have as good fit and finish and you will have to do more work to tune it up, but it will also probably work just as well once tuned up.
You could also consider a smaller saw - these have the advantage of taking finer blades more readily and taking up much less space. If you make small boxes and fine things, toys and such then they are perfect - better than the larger saw in fact. Not so good for beds and rocking horses though. 14 inch machines are a nice compromise.
Final word - I was serious about the minimum specs on the 14 inch machine. A crap one takes up just as much space as a good one and the opportunity cost of shop space is something you would be well advised to take into consideration - that spot can only be used for one thing after all. Might as well be something that does it's job well.
I've owned Grizzly and Laguna but the Powermatic 14" seems to be a solid well-built machine for smaller projects. Overall, since bandsaws were designed for re-sawing (which no other powertool can do), I would opt for the most re-saw capacity your are willing to afford. This being your first bandsaw, I would also read/watch all you can on the proper setup, tuning, and blade selections.
The bandsaw is essential in most shops. If you buy rough lumber and it is wider than your jointer, you are going to have to rip the boards first on the bandsaw. And as mentioned no other machine can do resawing like a bandsaw can. I have a 14-inch Laguna SUV. It has never failed me. There are all sorts of 14 inch bandsaws of quality -- they all have the same features these days.
I'll just repeat what I posted earlier in response to the OP's query
"What type of woodworking you're interested in will be the deciding factor of which size saw you settle on. You probably aren't going to get your last saw the first time out."
I've had my Laguna 14/12 for about four years now, and I couldn't be happier. It was reasonably priced, it's made in the USA (Laguna Beach, CA) and its tech support is superior. It has some persnickets, as do all such machines, but they're minor and don't affect my work 99% of the time.
I echo what Rob_S said about blades - to which I add: one of the above-mentioned persnickets is that this saw will not accept a 1-inch blade, which many consider ideal for resawing. That said, I find my 3/4" blade (Timberwolf 3/4" x 2/3VPC) perfectly adequate for my purposes.
I also echo Elmaduro's advice. In that regard, Laguna has a YouTube channel that explains how to set up, use, and adjust your bandsaw.
I agree Laguna is a good tool. The manual for the 14/12 says manufactured in Taiwan.
Didn't see that in my manual. Not surprising, though.
If you’re still around, don’t let that bother you, just about every major mfg’er has machines made in Taiwan
I have bought 3 nice machines for my shop off Craigslist. Sawstop PCS, Laguna jointer and a Grizzly 17" bandsaw. I simply set up an alert on Craigslist and was patient. On all of them I got a machine that was fairy new and worked like new, and saved a significant amount off current retail prices. Do your research and pick a few options that will work. You'll get the satisfaction of saving money and get a good machine. Unless you're in a hurry.
The blade makes the saw, so it's worth spending $$$ on the best blade. Check out the wood slicer at Highland Woodworking. https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/wood-slicer-resaw-bandsaw-blades.aspx. Highland also sells a great carbide tooth blade for a lot more money. Michael Golden, the bandsaw guru, likes Starrett blades. Either way, 3 tpi, 1/2" or 3/4" is a blade suitable for resawing, ripping or tapering legs. I run the Highland blades on a Grizzly G054X2 19" 3 hp with 12" cutting height. I resaw lots of 8" wide white oak and white ash cut and dried on my farm, taper square and octagonal legs using a taper sled and cut precise dovetails using Golden's jigs published in Fine Woodworking. The heavy cast table tilts 45 degrees in one direction and enough in the other direction with the stop bolt removed to cut 8:1 (7.1 degree) tails and pins. The saw has a tall fence useful for resawing. I use a Bow GuidePro for resaw infeed and Bow FeatherDuo double high feather board for the outfeed and get nearly zero blade drift on long boards.
can you pls provide fw issue number for golden's dovetail jig? thank you
September 2018 issue. Includes detailed instructions for building the four jigs and using them. It's faster than hand of sawing (not including the time for building the jigs), and more precise depending on your skill.
Requires skill in laying out and chisel work for fitting.
I've been woodworking for the last 6 years with handtools. I use hand tools because I enjoy working with my hands and my day job doesn't allow for that. I have finished saving up for a bandsaw and am likely to order one today.
Cross cutting by hand is super easy. Ripping by hand is reasonably fast. The thing that is a real slog by hand is thicknessing by hand. As such, what I really want a bandsaw to do for me is resaw. I am already routinely working with 12-13" wide boards so I want to get something that can resaw wide boards.
Wood Magazine did a review a few months ago on bandsaws for resawing. They rated the Grizzly G0817 - 14" Super HD 2 HP Resaw Bandsaw with Foot Brake highly. It is capable of resawing 14" wide boards so it really fits my needs nicely. It costs $1,900 and seems well priced for what it does.
My concerns about it are there aren't a lot of reviews out there about it. I did find one YouTube video series form a co-op/makers club that has one and I asked them what they thought about it two years onwards after owning it. They responded that they were still happy with it. I am likley going to order it this week. I still have some slight concern given the lack of information from users (it's uncommon for magazines to give poor reviews as it can impact advertising so if something doesn't work well, they simply don't review it). However, if it doesn't work that great at resawing, I wll then get a bigger better bandsaw and use this one with a thin blade for cutting.
Just to provide an update. The lack of reviews on this Grizzly bandsaw worried me enough so that I myself am going in a different direction. I am going to get a PowerMatic 1500. Sorting out the specifics tomorrow with the local Woodcraft store.
Skip the starter bandsaws. Look for a Northfield 20” bandsaw. It’s small enough for a small workshop but can handle any project you can throw at it. Northfield machines are still made in Northfield Minnesota. You can still buy parts for them.
Skip the ones you can afford? A lot of pros are using much less expensive bandsaws.
I'm sure Northfield is great if you need and can afford.
There is another thread called "band saw replacement" in this forum from November 1, 2021 that could help with your decision.
Altho this doesn't talk about choosing what bandsaw to buy, I figure I need to put it in here to all the folks using bandsaws. About 3 years ago I watched a Youtube video where a guy set up a pulley, chord, and weight to automatically feed a board thru his bandsaw. He then installed a new name brand blade, ran a board thru it, and it took about 27 seconds (as I recall; I looked today and couldn't find the video, tho I found another video that referenced seeing it.) Then he sharpened the blade, that had only cut one board since being new. It took less than 10 seconds to cut the same board with the same feed. (No, he didn't try this with every name brand blade.)
This got me curious, as I had never been that impressed with the many new blades I had bought for my 36" bandsaw (and at 18'7" long, they were not cheap.) So I looked very closely at one, and found the problem. Their teeth had been shaped, probably by automatic grinding, but possibly by punching them out. They had then been set (one left, one right, one unset) and sold to me (and others, of course.) This left an incorrect tooth shape. When sharpening a rip blade, the teeth need to be sharpened after setting, so that the tops of the teeth are perpendicular to the body of the blade, not at an angle as the setting left. The outside tip of the tooth needs to cut the same fibers at the same time as the center of the tooth.
So, using an article in FWW from a very long time ago, and a support roller for the blade attached to my 10' ceiling, I resharpened a dull blade. The result was astounding! My bandsaw had never cut so well, even with a brand new blade. Fortunately, my partner and I never threw anything away, so we had about 5 dull blades hanging on the wall. I sharpened them all. Then I used a chain saw sharpener to sharpen all the skip tooth blades for my 14" Delta bandsaw, and a triangular file to sharpen all the blades with teeth the triangular shape of hand saw teeth. None of this took a long time after I got going.
So check your blades, and see if they are actually properly sharpened, or just kinda look like it. And there are dozens, if not hundreds of Youtube videos on how to sharpen a bandsaw blade. I used a support table in front of my 8" grinder. All it takes is a touch to sharpen the tooth properly.
Harvey
Sounds interesting - I have always thrown my blades away, but will give this a go.
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