I have a 14″ Delta bandsaw with a 3/8 inch blade on it and I experience problems cutting curves without the blade binding in the kerf. I thought I might be trying to cut too tight of a curve but even with a 2″ radius curve causes trouble. Could it be that my blade tension is wrong or could it be that my alignment blocks (cool blocks) are not close enough to the blade so that the blade twists?
Thanks
Replies
Need some details, thickness and variety of wood, type of blade?
John White
The blade is a general purpose Delta blade. It pretty much happens on all types of wood and thickness. The most recent occurence was on white oak about 2" thick. Originally I thought it was because I was using a 3/8 blade but I took the oak to a friends shop and used his bandsaw with a 3/8's blade on it and it cut the curves no problem. So that got me thinking that I must have something setup wrong on my saw.
Thanks
The blade width/radius charts that are often included with band saw manuals are generally highly optimistic about the turning radius a given blade can handle. Most of the charts are just copies of charts developed in the 1930's and 40's and don't reflect the performance of modern blades. The charts are also, I suspect, based on cutting thin stock. A blade that will turn a tight radius in 1/2" stock can't do nearly as tight a turn in 2" thick material.
I would recommend a narrower blade for starters. I checked with Suffolk Machinery, the supplier of Timberwolf blades, and they suggested that their 3/16 inch wide, 10TPI, RK blade would be the best blade for achieving the cut you want. You can reach them directly at 1-800-234-7297.
Also the blade must be sharp and band saw blades dull quickly. The first thing to try whenever you have a problem is to try again with a new blade fresh out of the box. If your friend's saw had a sharp blade with a generous set to the teeth, it would cut very differently from the blade you are using.
It is hard to tell you what the proper tension would be, the tensioning scale on most saws are highly inaccurate. If your saw has the original spring in the tensioning assembly, try tensioning the blade to twice the scale indication, tension a 1/4" blade to the 1/2" mark for instance.
While Cool Blocks have their advantages when working with very narrow blades, for 1/4 inch and wider blades you are better off using closely set steel or ceramic guide blocks and keeping the thrust bearing right up against the back of the blade.
So try out sawing with a different blade, and let me know if you are still having problems.
John White
Thanks for the info. I will try that.
Dave
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