Replies

1. 
   DennisS | Jul 25, 2003 09:16pm | #1

   I don't know much about bandsaw blades with respect to re-sawing, Phil. I do think, though, that basswood may be a little soft for bowls.

   ...........

   Dennis in Bellevue WA

   [email protected]

2. 
   JohnWW | Jul 25, 2003 09:34pm | #2

   Talk to Suffolk Machinery, they carry Timberwolf blades which are the best resaw blade I've found.  They carry several types, call them up and tell them what you intend to saw and they'll reccommend the proper blade.  Their phone is 800-234-7297. Their web site is http://www.suffolkmachinery.com.

   John W.

3. 
   BHerman | Jul 25, 2003 10:36pm | #3

   Ditto what John W says, I recently bought a Grizzly saw and used a Timberwolf 3/4" blade for resawing some walnut - worked great! The People at Suffolk are knowledgeable and very helpful

4. 
   RMillard | Jul 25, 2003 11:59pm | #4

   My recommendation for saw blades will undoubtedly bring howls of criticism, both for size and type, but I use Starrett blades.

   While made for the metal cutting industry, these blades excel for woodworking. Right now I have one on my saw which has been on there since last fall, and is still going strong despite the fact that I use my saw nearly every day ( my table saw sits covered in dust, for weeks/months at a time).

   Although Delta/Jet bandsaws are rated to use blades up to ¾” wide, I never put anything wider than 3/8 on mine, as I don’t believe saws of this type have the necessary rigidity to fully tension wider blades. I also remain unconvinced that a mere 1/8-¼” extra in width helps in anyway with tracking.

   Here are the blades I have found useful. All are Bi Metal Powerband Matrix II

   3/8 x .025 8-12 pitch . This blades variable pitch nearly eliminates vibration, and will resaw material up to 6” wide. This is my general purpose blade

   3/8 x.025 4 pitch This is my choice for wide resawing

   ¼” x .025 10-14 This is for tight curves

   I also keep the delta 3/16" 4 pitch on hand for really tight work.

   Any Industrial supplier dealing with the machine trades will be able to get these for you, or may have them in stock.

   I don't know the first thing about bowls, so I can't help you there.

                                                      Rob Millard

5. 
   ToolDoc | Jul 26, 2003 07:02am | #5

   Phil: while many here tout TimberWolf blades,I on the other hand like & use Olson BS blades never had a problem with em..

                                       ToolDoc

6. 
   TJW | Jul 26, 2003 07:41am | #6

   My vote for resawing is the 1/2" Woodslicer from Highland Hardware ($30).  I have a 14" Delta with riser and that blade cuts < 1/16" veneers off of 12" mahogany with almost invisible saw marks. Compared to the 1/4" Timberwolf I also have ($18 from Suffolk, $35 from Woodcraft), it is noticeably smoother.  But, that's not really a fair test because besides being narrower the TW has 6 teeth/in. as opposed to the Woodslicer's 3T.  Ash and maple also cut well.  You do have to adjust your fence for lead.

   Tom Witzig

7. 
   ron61 | Jul 26, 2003 06:09pm | #7

   Phil I don't know about the blades

   But you might want to use something besides the Basswood. Myself I would use a hardwood for your bowls like Maple. I don't know about stain unless you use a water soluble dye   but not sure you need something non toxic- You can get salad bowl finish or use cooking oil for the finish. 

   Use the Basswood for carving - I bet you might sell it.  

   
   

   ---

   Edited 7/26/2003 11:16:51 AM ET by Ron

8. 
   RANGERP75R | Jul 26, 2003 07:25pm | #8

   Phil

      I agree with TJ. On a 14" BS, you are limited to 3/4" blades. I don't personally think a 14" handles 3/4" well. I've been using the Re-Slice blade (1/2" 3 tooth an especially designed for re-saw by Highland Hardware). I do use the Timber-Wolf 1/4" 6 skip-tooth for outside cutting. It is excellent, but the Re-Slice gives me better results on a re-saw. I've tried both there..

   Regards...

   sarge..jt

1. 
   GregB126 | Jul 27, 2003 06:58pm | #9

   Sarge,

   Another endorser of Highland's Wood Slicer is Lonnie Bird.  In The Bandsaw Book, he recommends it as a very good and affordable resaw blade.  It holds an edge well, leaves a good surface and is very thin, making a very thin kerf.  This is good in terms of ease of tensioning, ease of the machine itself in making the cut and (especially good from my perspective) grain match when book matching.

   Cheers,

   Greg

1. 
   RANGERP75R | Jul 27, 2003 07:33pm | #10

   Greg

      I think a lot of people are not aware of it an some just ignore as they are not familar. The Timber-Wolf seems to be the rage. They are excellent an I also use them on everything but the re-saw. That thin kerf slicer is the ticket to good results as far as I'm concerned.

      The demo folks at Highland helped design it and then went out an got someone to manufacture for them. Everyting about it is top-notch, including the weld.

      I'm headed to Highland in a few minutes, as a matter of fact. Need some slow moving glue an a few odds an ends. Usually that means I come home with about two grocery sacks full of things I didn't intend to buy. ha..ha..

   Have a good day, Greg...

   sarge..jt

1. 
   ToolDoc | Jul 28, 2003 01:04am | #11

   SARGE: Noticed you mention in your post about TimberWolf BS Blades being the "Rage"..Yup but I never was one to follow them there "Rage" thingies.ie~@ Smokin dope,Streakin nude across a field while they was playin Baseball or football, or shootin up to feel good. growin my hair down to butt crack or not takin a bath but once a month,etc.etc. ya guess IM just aBoring old fart.. oh ya by the way IM sticking with my OLSON BS blades yup there tried in true in my book & there the "Cats Meow" in my book.. they make Damn fine scrollsaw blades too..

           

   Climbs down from my milk crate & says ok I feel better now..hehe..

                                                ToolDoc

1. 
   RANGERP75R | Jul 28, 2003 01:45am | #12

   Doc

      Milk-crate..... With all those new toys you got, you should build a podium. he....

      Never tried the Olson BS blades. I use the Timber-Wolf 1/4" 6 tooth skip for general cutting. They are good blades. I'm sure the Olson are also. Like TS blades, there a bunch that are excellent. Once you find one at a reasonable price and it suits your needs, you have a tendency to stick with it cause you trust it.

      I use Crest tooth-paste. I'm sure Colgate an others do the same job. I just started with Crest an haven't had any teeth fall out prematurely, so I stick with it. Same with fishing lures. I have numerous from the time I was 6 years old. The one that got the 13 lb. bass years ago is the one I'd pull out of the tackle box if I still had time to fish.

      Perhaps it's not so much the blade, but the owner who installs it, tentions it an tunes the saw. Then they finesse the stock through using proper technique an concentrating on what the saw, stock and blade are telling him. Good results don't just happen cause you're using name-brand expensive equipment. They happen cause you develop a feel for what you're doing an a knowledge of the handling characteristics of whatever equipement you do use. Couple that with a working knowledge of the craft and dedication, an you come out ahead.

      If high dollar equipement were the only factor in achieving out-standing results, every golfer with a set of expensive tricked out golf clubs would be shooting par an below. "It don't happen that way!"

   You can have your milk-crate back now, gotta go play in my junk-shop. ha..ha.. 

   sarge..jt

2. 
   ToolDoc | Jul 28, 2003 05:05am | #13

   SARGE: check out Olsons site there MVP & all Pro blades are Great~

   http://www.olsontools.com/       they also got a new toy for the scrollsaw a neat little light thingy for us old timers with poor sight its a fretLight.. pretty cool..

   Build a Podium oh hell I'll just might as well build a stage..LOL.. Im kind of bored here today too many Race fans around coming & going to the race at Pocono.there a bunch of Damn Pests.......

                                                                 ToolDoc

   Edited 7/27/2003 10:06:55 PM ET by TOOLDOC