I can’t seem to find the thread on Michael Fortune’s bandsaw article in the current FWW, but the gist of the it was that his statement about horsepower didn’t mesh with most people’s thinking.
I have a Delta 14″ with a riser – I don’t recall the motor size. I’ve used it to resaw 12″ wide white oak and 12″ wide maple without any problems, with 1/2″ Timberwolf and Wood Slicer blades. Some patience is required, for sure, but I get good results without much hassle as long as I don’t make the blade scream.
My question is: What feed rate would be considered “normal” for resawing through a 12″ piece of oak or hard maple with a dedicated resawing machine, and a more general setup? I’ve never used another machine for resawing, so all I know is what I get out of this one, but the discussion piqued my curiosity.
Just curious…
Fred
Replies
Fred,
At a WWing show last year the Timberwolf rep recommended feeding a rate that was comfortable using only your thumbs. I know this isn't very descriptive but it worked well for me.
Doug
A few issues back, Fine Woodworking tested resaw blades on a 14 inch saw with a riser block. Most of the blades cut though a foot long piece of maple, 11 inches wide in 15 to 25 seconds.
With a good blade on my Ridgid saw with a riser block, I can do almost as well and that saw has only a 3/4 HP motor.
Generally the feed rate is determined by feel, I increase the rate until I can sense that the saw is starting to labor and then back off maybe 25% to give the saw a little bit of room to work and to lengthen the blade life.
John W.
"My question is: What feed rate would be considered "normal" for resawing through a 12" piece of oak or hard maple with a dedicated resawing machine, and a more general setup? I've never used another machine for resawing, so all I know is what I get out of this one, but the discussion piqued my curiosity."
Froed,
We use a 24" Laguna bandsaw equipped with 1" carbide-tipped blades and a power feed for this kind of resawing at school. I timed a recent resaw operation and found that we achieved terrific results at a rate of between one minute and a minute-and-a-half per foot.
For best results, I find that a consistent rate of feed is at least as important as the speed with which the stock is pushed through the blade. Listen to the sounds made by the work and the tool, and avoid pushing the work so hard that undue pressure is applied to the rear thrust bearing.
Good luck,
-Jazzdogg-
Whether you think you can, or you think you can't, you're right.
Thanks for the responses. I guess I'm a bit on the slow side, because the 12" white oak I cut took me about 3 minutes a foot, so maybe my blade wasn't as sharp as I remember. But it was also very dense stuff, and my goal wasn't speed, but a straight, consistent cut. I don't know if this makes sense, but I try to let the blade almost "pull" the wood into the cut, which I'm sure leaves a little room to go faster. The maple was quicker than that, though I'm not really sure how much faster.
Doug - That's a good approach, and more or less what I try to do, along with listening to the cut. Letting the blade do the work results not only in a much straighter and smoother cut, it also keeps me from worrying that I'm going to push my fingers into the blade.
John - I forgot about that issue, I'll have to look at it again, though I'm pretty sure I've never been that fast. I try to listen and feel what the blade is doing, if it starts to scream, it's too fast, and the cut will suffer, and I'd rather avoid another pass through the planer.
Jazzdog - I think your comment about consistent feed rate being as important as the feed rate itself is right on. That's where patience comes into play, at least for me. Now that I think about it, watching the thrust bearing occasionally is something I do too, to make sure I'm not loading it too much.
It sounds like I'm on the slow side, but in the ballpark, which is what I was wondering about. I appreciate the input. Now, if I could just lower the table somehow...
Edited 11/2/2004 7:20 am ET by Froed
Like any other cutting operation, you'd want to be between cutting slow where the wood is glazing, and pushing hard to where the wood is smoking. It is a matter of feel.
Personally, I would not use the two thumb approach. Getting too comfortable with this can produce a loss of thumbs, like an old sawyer.
Jackplane and Fred,
Jackplane's point is well-taken: the "thumbs only " is not necessarily literal except to the extent that it helps develop your sense of feel of the appropriate pressure for a given piece of wood. I start each piece off this way and once I get what I feel is the right rate then I adjust how I am physically handling the wood based on size, shape and nature of the cut.
Doug
Jackplane, thanks for your input. I don't actually use only my thumbs, but I didn't think Doug meant it literally. What I'm seeing here are several ways of saying the same thing - let the blade do the work, don't force the cut, don't make the blade scream, the thumbs thing, etc. - all of which converge on sensing how the blade is working, and how the cut is proceeding.
I'm not really asking how to resaw - I'm no expert, for sure, but I've done it enough that I know what works for me. I was trying to get a feel for what kind of feed rate people consider reasonable, or normal. Maybe that was a goofy question, given the variation in machines, blades, setup, operators, and especially the wood itself. I think I asked one of those "it depends" questions without realizing it.
Froed
Hey Fred,
It wasn't a goofy question even if it might be one of those "it depends" questions. Very few of us have been fortunate to be mentored, apprenticed or formally taught woodworking and this forum and other media are ways we learn by reading, doing, asking and lurking.
Every time I ready these responses, the answers inform me of something I hadn't considered, reinforced something I practice or remind me of something I may have forgotten.
Hard to imagine life without the Internet. I've discovered woodworking toys I never knew existed and met people that actually know how to use them! Ain't it great!!
Doug
Howdie All!
I use a straight fence to resaw. Check out the pics in the Shaker Oval Box thread, message # 13764.11.
Friction of the fence material and the BS's table have a lot to do with how hard you have to push. If you're resawing a wide board with a high fence, the more friction you'll have. If you're sawing a heavy board, it's weight will produce more friction across the table. Wax can help with both.
I also use a magnetic fingerboard thingey to keep the wood tight to the fence. That produces more drag still.
I just try to keep the blade from "singing". When it does sing, that's when I get this zig zag washboarding pattern on the sawn pieces.
I haven't timed it, yet.
Yes there are lots of variables. I hope for these thick re-saw jobs that you are using the blade with the fewest teeth per inch that you can buy. You can't expect a saw with a 1/2 or 3/4 hp motor to go very fast even with the right blade.
You should have at least 3 hp to saw 12" oak 5hp would be about right IMHO.
If lack of power forces you to go too slow for the blade to take a large enough chip, the blade will cause excessive heat to build up in the cut, which causes pitch to rapidly build on the blade which causes more friction, which I'm sure you all know will dull it faster.
YOU NEED ENOUGH HP FOR EACH TOOTH IN THE CUT TO TAKE A LARGE ENOUGH CHIP TO TAKE THE HEAT OUT WITH IT.
I replaced the 5 hp motor on my 36" saw about a year ago with a 7.5 hp motor. I can't believe what a wonderful difference it made. I wish I had done it sooner.
Before I start a heavy cut, I touch each side of the blade with a stick of paraffin to lubricate it. It stays on good and is not messy.
Power is good. Think big, Cheers. K
Doug - I agree with your post 100%. If it wasn't for the internet, and forums like Knots, I'd be much worse than I am.
Chills - My fence is similar to yours, except it fits over the existing rip fence instead of being clamped to the table. Now that I think about it, I wax it whenever I use it as well.
Rootburl - The blades I resaw with are 1/2-3 tpi. Jackplane also mentions glazing and burning, which brings to mind that no one seems to mention a clean blade, just a sharp one. Pitch on the blade will make it tougher to get a good cut when you're resawing a wide piece, heating the blade more and snowballing into a lousy cut.
All - Thanks again for all the input, I appreciate the comments. It seems from your responses that unless I get a dedicated resaw machine (not likely), I'm doing okay for the setup I have. And I get good cuts, so I guess that's the bottom line.
I love this place.
Froed
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