I recently bought a second hand bandsaw, it’s a tendotools TT250(https://www.tendotools.com/nl/lintzaagmachine-tendotools-tt250.html) I think it is the same as the record power 250 saw.
I tried to cut some douglas 2.7 cm think boards with it and the motor stalled a lot. A new blade does not help. I contacted the company and they said I had to check the tires or the belt. Which both look fine and would not affect the stalling of the motor imo (belt does not slip when it stalls). It is a 370 watt motor which is about 1/2hp. A video of the badger workshop shows him cutting a 6cm+ oak piece with his record power 250 saw.. So I don’t know what to do, can anyone help?
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What you're asking the machine to do is quite reasonable - an inch of douglas fir is not a tough cut; and you're correct that tires have nothing to do with the motor stalling. So, I question the motor. I would re-ask the question at the manufacturer - someone with more knowledge than the person who gave you the first answer. Sight unseen, I think the motor's bad or inadequate.
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Is the motor actually stalling (humming but not spinning) or is just the blade stopping?
I ask because I had a bandsaw where the glue failed that held the rubber tire on the lower wheel. The saw ran fine until I tried to cut something - then the rubber tire would spin independently of the wheel and the blade would stop.
But if you've checked all the mechanical things then it must be the motor. I believe there is a capacitor inside the black box attached to the motor. It may be bad. You might call them back and ask if a bad capacitor could cause a TT-250 to stall like this.
Your statement "(belt does not slip when it stalls)" makes me think that the motor is stopping. This happens when the motor encounters more resistance or torque than it is able to overcome. The question is whether this is due to a fault in the feed rate, the motor or in the electrical supply. My similar Rikon saw (1/3HP) will saw 3" tall oak. Very slowly but, it does not stall.
- Is your feed rate faster than about 1" per second? If so, try slowing your feed rate. This is a good speed for a smooth accurate cut but, the saw could go faster.
- Is the saw on an extension cord, in an outbuilding, on a sub-panel? Move the saw to another area where it can plug in closer to the source to test. If there is a performance jump, consider your electrical.
- is your blade a high tooth count? Four to Ten teeth per inch is about as fine as I would go.
Less teeth, faster-rougher cut. More teeth, slower smoother cut. Too many teeth, burning and stalling. Let's try these and see where we end up.
what is weird is tyhat the motor is 370 watt (0.5hp) and in theory a 24-25µF capicitor should be installed, but it is a 12µF one.. I tried with a 20£F one but the motor heated up, the cutting was better tho.
And my feed rate is non existent really, i berely move the wood and it would jam.
About the blades. The blade that was on it is dull, but runs smooth (less vibrations) i bought 2 saws from tendotools and the joint where they welded the blade is really rough. and the blades are not very good quality i think, they both dont run smooth. The 13mm 4tpi blade i bought broke at the joint, and the 6tpi 6 mm blade holds bends, zo if i put a bend in it, it holds it, with the blade that was on it the blade was ay more flexibel if that mkes sense..
I also dont want to be spending a lot of money on this saw. it's chinese made i think and i think im better off selling it and buying a decent saw. Problem is i only know the american brands like jet, laguna, ... i only know of hammer from the felder groupe.
Is your saw well setup? Is you blade sharp? Michael Fortune has a great video here on FW "How to Set Up a Bandsaw". Check your setup and blade, if that fails, work on the motor. Good luck.
Does your lower wheel spin when the "stall" happens? To be clear, what are you calling a "stall"? Is it the motor not turning, or the blade stopping? If the motor continues to run, check the mechanicals rownstream from there. I would start by looking for missing keystock on the drive pulleys and the lower wheel.
When you say the "belt does nof slip when it stalls" do you mean the motor and belt continue to turn during a "stall"?
"And my feed rate is non existent really, i berely move the wood and it would jam."
The blades that are supplied with machines are rarely very good. To confirm that the blade is not the issue a $10 Olsen would get you past that possibility.
I made the mistake that many have made and sold my 12" machine when I bought a 17" saw. I immediately missed the smaller saw and purposely bought the small 10" Rikon to use for quick, low effort cuts. It has done admirably.
If you have room for only one saw and the one you have is too small for your purposes, send it down the road and move on. If you want a good small secondary saw it may be worth pursuing this one.
Not sure about your motor but, I believe my Rikon is a starter cap/starter winding with an induction/run winding so changing the cap is not going to help any runtime problem. If your motor has a run cap you may be able to replace that for a few bucks. If you get into motor rewinding, I would replace; or again, move on.
As above, check your set up first. I’ve used Alex Snodgrass methods with great success. I had trouble with resawing, stalling a 2hp Liessen motor, works like a champ now. You can find his stuff on YouTube.
Well... the Hammer (which I have) is an excellent saw, but it will set you back some serious money.
Virtually all stationary equipment is foreign made - Felder is Austrian; Laguna specs theirs overseas, Delta & Rkon are Chinese I believe, Jet is owned by a holding company, and manufactured overseas.
I'm not sure there is a quality saw in your price range.
About the only thing to check that has not already been said (all of which is good advice) is to try to spin the wheels with no blade on.
There are three possible causes of your problem if you think about it:
1. The blade is slipping - this means the blade jams but the wheels keep turning - I think you would have noticed this, so we can ignore it.
2. The motor is not producing the rated power. Your capacitor changing suggests this is the case. A bad cap will cause almost zero power at startup and very low running power.
3. There is additional resistance outside the motor.
If your wheels spin freely, and the whole schmozzle is turning well with and without a blade, then the only possibility is that the motor is broken and the machine is essentially scrap. A replacement motor will probably cost more than a new machine. a bad bearing though is a cheap fix and you have got yourself a bargain. If more than fingertip pressure is needed to spin the wheels then most of your energy from the motor is being spent there.
As for replacements, you could do worse than the Ascent BS350 which is a 14 inch model. Build quality on Ascent tools is poor, but the engineering and design is good. This means that with a bit of patience, badly set up fences can be adjusted, crap switches changed and you have a machine that will perform at the upper end of the spectrum for a bottom end price. Many no-name brands use the same basic Chinese made bandsaw and paint it in their colours. Mine will cut through 8 inches of dry oak easily.
I would be suspect the motor may be weak. 1/2 HP motors are fairly cheap, but have to justify spending any money at all.
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